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help troubleshooting geothermal unit
Posted on 8/27/24 at 10:43 am
Posted on 8/27/24 at 10:43 am
Have a Geostar Aston indoor split unit going to a Honeywell Home thermostat that stopped working over the weekend. I tested the thermostat and even bought a new one just in case but it still doesn't power up. Breaker wasn't tripped and I just checked the internal fuse of the Geostar unit and it's intact.
Anyone have any other experience? I've seen that it says check the condensation drain but I'm a bit confused on where it might be located. There isn't a lot of info online for this stuff outside of the manual it comes with.
Anyone have any other experience? I've seen that it says check the condensation drain but I'm a bit confused on where it might be located. There isn't a lot of info online for this stuff outside of the manual it comes with.
This post was edited on 8/27/24 at 10:46 am
Posted on 8/27/24 at 11:20 am to pankReb
High pressure switch with manual reset in compressor compartment? If it has once and is tripped, check pump/ and or strainer if it has one.
Posted on 8/27/24 at 12:57 pm to Wraytex
I found two pipe reliefs with an open/shut lever as well as spigot knob. One of them trickled water for a good bit before I shut it off. I closed it back up and flipped the breaker back on just for the hell of it to see if the LED indicator lights on the internal board started working again and magically they did. Ran upstairs to the thermostat and it started working again.
Problem is it all shut back off a few minutes later. I’m guessing that was a drain pipe that might be backed up somewhere.
Problem is it all shut back off a few minutes later. I’m guessing that was a drain pipe that might be backed up somewhere.
Posted on 8/27/24 at 1:32 pm to pankReb
You likely have a kill switch/ float switch type of thing. I'm not familiar with what you are talking about.
But normal HVAC units have a condensation line and they have a float switch on the unit so that when that condensation line is clogged the float switch "floats" and kills the power to the thermostat or another part of the unit to prevent it from backing up and flooding your house.
You likely have something similar. You should be able to trace your electrical wires to find it?
But normal HVAC units have a condensation line and they have a float switch on the unit so that when that condensation line is clogged the float switch "floats" and kills the power to the thermostat or another part of the unit to prevent it from backing up and flooding your house.
You likely have something similar. You should be able to trace your electrical wires to find it?
Posted on 8/27/24 at 5:19 pm to baldona
I figure that’s the case. I’m thinking about connecting a water hose to the end of that spigot, opening it up, and letting it drain out the side of the garage. Releasing some of it seemed to make it work temporarily earlier.
Posted on 8/28/24 at 8:12 am to pankReb
I’m not sure what type of lines you have but a buddy of mine hooked up a high pressure air hose to his to try to blow a clog out. The line gave before the clog did and it busted open in a wall. Was a pretty big pain in his arse.
Posted on 8/28/24 at 9:11 am to Finch
quote:
I’m not sure what type of lines you have but a buddy of mine hooked up a high pressure air hose to his to try to blow a clog out. The line gave before the clog did and it busted open in a wall. Was a pretty big pain in his arse.
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