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Started By
Message
re: Towing a vehicle with a class B/C motor home....
Posted on 4/24/24 at 9:25 am to Barneyrb
Posted on 4/24/24 at 9:25 am to Barneyrb
quote:
Not all vehicles can be flat towed, do your research and then go shopping. In order to tow legally you also have to set up a braking system in the towed car.
We have towed a Jeep Cherokee before and you really do need the braking system
If memory serves Arkansas is the only state which does not require a braking system for ANY vehicle towed. Our Mini Cooper is lighter than my boat, decoy trailer, utility trailer with the tractor...I can pull them without brakes (they all have electric brakes though) but can't pull the Mini. Our towbar has a cable to the brake pedal....with the Honda or the Mini I never knew if the brakes were working or not....I know they don't work when they ain't connected LOL...I have done that a few times. I tried to pull a 1996 Tahoe once without brakes hooked up and it did it but it was dodgy. As light as the Mini is the brakes don't make much if any difference. The Honda CRV was the same. I suspect on a big diesel pusher class a even a full sized truck or SUV is unoticeable.
1
Posted on 4/24/24 at 9:23 pm to AwgustaDawg
I have toad vehicles for about 65 thousand miles and watched thousands of folks hitch and unhitch.
Your best location for toad information is the Forest River rv blog, vehicle tow threads. Many years of experience there and all of it is fervently discussed.
My first toad was a 2001 s-10 auto transmission. I had a drive shaft disconnect installed to tow 4 down. Really bad solution.Disconnect was stuck 75 per cent of time The ignition had to be in the on position to allow the steering to track. Ran down the battery if left on more than 6 hours. I failed to put the ignition on one time and drug the tread off the front tires in 1.4 miles.
My second toad was a 2012 Colorado 4 wheel drive. Ignition key did not lock the steering. Push two buttons to get the transfer case in neutral. The 4000 pound weight was within the class A specs for weight. I did no auxiliary or breakaway systems, not required in texas within the motor home specs. Avoided a bunch of sensor, tuning, calibration issues. Trailer hitch was backed up by frame to frame redundant safety cables. I wired the toad with a boat trailer harness and added tail lite assemblies to the rear bumper.
I could do a complete hook up/disconnect in about 5 minutes depending on my accuracy in positioning the two vehicles.
A couple parameters.... When traveling in other states, your home state law determines the towing requirements. East of the Mississippi, most states will specify braking equipment that must be in stalled. West of the Mississippi there is a tendency to use a performance standard for stopping.
distance.
Flat towing or dolly towing is a poor choice. At each camp ground you will have disconnect, unload because the pad length will not allow the combined length of mh and trailer. Typically takes 25-30 minutes. If you are traveling, that takes an hour out of each day.
Aux brakes or not, is a very heated issue beware of die hards. But remember that breakaway emergency brakes, may stop the toad in your lane, on coming lane or the school yard. ya don't know.
Federal campgrounds in the west are dated in the 50-60's period and are generally sized for a 30-35 foot rig. Plan accordingly.
Traveled the west for 10 years, twice driving to anchorage. Been over the high rockies, and my limitation was air for the engine at 13000 feet. Ford v-10, 6 miles per gallon.
I would do it all over again if I were 10 years younger
Your best location for toad information is the Forest River rv blog, vehicle tow threads. Many years of experience there and all of it is fervently discussed.
My first toad was a 2001 s-10 auto transmission. I had a drive shaft disconnect installed to tow 4 down. Really bad solution.Disconnect was stuck 75 per cent of time The ignition had to be in the on position to allow the steering to track. Ran down the battery if left on more than 6 hours. I failed to put the ignition on one time and drug the tread off the front tires in 1.4 miles.
My second toad was a 2012 Colorado 4 wheel drive. Ignition key did not lock the steering. Push two buttons to get the transfer case in neutral. The 4000 pound weight was within the class A specs for weight. I did no auxiliary or breakaway systems, not required in texas within the motor home specs. Avoided a bunch of sensor, tuning, calibration issues. Trailer hitch was backed up by frame to frame redundant safety cables. I wired the toad with a boat trailer harness and added tail lite assemblies to the rear bumper.
I could do a complete hook up/disconnect in about 5 minutes depending on my accuracy in positioning the two vehicles.
A couple parameters.... When traveling in other states, your home state law determines the towing requirements. East of the Mississippi, most states will specify braking equipment that must be in stalled. West of the Mississippi there is a tendency to use a performance standard for stopping.
distance.
Flat towing or dolly towing is a poor choice. At each camp ground you will have disconnect, unload because the pad length will not allow the combined length of mh and trailer. Typically takes 25-30 minutes. If you are traveling, that takes an hour out of each day.
Aux brakes or not, is a very heated issue beware of die hards. But remember that breakaway emergency brakes, may stop the toad in your lane, on coming lane or the school yard. ya don't know.
Federal campgrounds in the west are dated in the 50-60's period and are generally sized for a 30-35 foot rig. Plan accordingly.
Traveled the west for 10 years, twice driving to anchorage. Been over the high rockies, and my limitation was air for the engine at 13000 feet. Ford v-10, 6 miles per gallon.
I would do it all over again if I were 10 years younger
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