re: Was Disney always this bad?

If you are only planning to take one trip, I think 12/13 is probably the best. At that age they can ride things themselves that maybe you as parents might not be interested in. They can handle the miles and miles of walking without need of a stroller or being held. they can carry their own backpacks if they need. They are tall enough to ride everything in all parks and depending on then time of year, would likely enjoy the water parks and shopping at Disney Springs as well.