re: ATT Fiber internet router or use your own router with IP passthrough. - UPDATE

quote:

---

---

That not too bad

quote:

---

ATT wireless AP

---

what wireless AP are you talking about? the WiFi on the router?

If anyone else is interested, I went with a Unifi UAP-AC-Lite.

LINK

I have it plugged straight into the ATT Pace router. Not only have my wifi disconnect issues stopped, but my 5GHz download speeds have probably doubled compared to the 5Ghz download speeds of the Pace built-in wifi.

quote:

---

and it has to be ran by a server

---

Only for initial setup. The AP runs independent of the server after that.

quote:

---

So still any geeks know id a nighthawk r7000's router ability is better than the BGW210? Should i ip passthrough or just use the nighthawk as the wifi AP?

---

The 5268 and 210 are pretty similar in wifi performance, though all things considered, I've found the 210 gives marginally better service than the 5268. From my experience (ATT tech 4+ years) they're both close in actual field performance, and I've been able to run around the 700x700 range over wifi on a gigabit profile with both models.

For customers who want to use their own router, I usually don't even mess around with IP Passthrough. I'll put their router in AP mode, connect it directly behind ours, and 95 times out of 100 it'll run fine without any further configuration.

I think BottleGnome covered it already, but the BGW-210 is having some firmware issues, and, IIRC, auto updates have been turned off until a solution is found.

Re someone above who mentioned their devices losing the 5Ghz connection: You may try splitting the 2.4 and 5.0 bands--giving each its own name. By default, they have the same name/password. We've found client devices are quick to roll from 5.0 down to 2.4, but many times they have problems rolling back up from 2.4 to 5. Practically, if you walk down the driveway with your iPhone, it'll roll down to 2.4 but fail to jump back to 5.0 when you get back within range inside. Splitting the bands and connecting your TV to only the 5.0 signal should alleviate some of those problems.

quote:

---

I did run mine like that. I had the normal name for the 2.4 band SSID and a 5Ghz tacked into the 5 band SSID. The disconnects were so bad that they made internet borderline unusable.

---

Same. What's weird is the only device that was constantly disconnecting was my Samsung Q7F TV, the most important device in my house.

I got the Google Wifi 3 puck system last weekend and everything is resolved now. I do think that the TV's IPv6 is acting weird though for streaming TV so I simply disabled it. But that still doesn't explain why it was always dropping off the selected 5ghz band that I specified the TV to use. When I chose the 2.4ghz band, it never dropped.

Something is up with that router (ATT's Arris one). Me using the Google Wifi router and seeing that the TV is connected to the 5ghz band ALL THE TIME with 0 drops confirms it for me.

yea im splitting the 2.4 and 5 g signals

So I put my Arris (ATT Router) in IP Passthrough mode and then hooked up my google wifi to the Arris. Should I have done something differently?

Also, I may cancel ATT Uverse TV soon. Does the DVR and 2 wireless receivers for ATT UVerse eat up a lot of bandwidth? I'm wondering if my home internet speed will get better by removing those 3 devices from the network.

I have gigabit. I am getting anywhere from 400-600 or so mvps on the main google WiFi puck.
Speedtest apps on my phone range anywhere from 100-250mbps usually.
How do I do something else with my arris other than pass through mode to ensure the fastest WiFi?

Oh my old thread. Like I said I gave up trying. I don't NEED a better router right now so it isn't top priority. Read the links that I have put in this thread to answer your questions.

I ordered the new BGW210-700 for my AT&T Fiber 1000 service to replace the Pace router. Should I enable or disable IPV6?