Started By
Message

re: Help me understand boat batteries.

Posted on 4/27/12 at 10:46 am to
Posted by bayoudude
Member since Dec 2007
25910 posts
Posted on 4/27/12 at 10:46 am to
Here would be a good set up for a single engine boat. You could run the stereo etc on one then when you come home let the engine run off of that drained battery to charge it back up. I would change this set up a bit to be able to select all. They make a one, two all switch. If your boat has twins it would be different.

This post was edited on 4/27/12 at 10:48 am
Posted by TaserTiger
Houston
Member since Dec 2008
391 posts
Posted on 4/28/12 at 8:19 am to
quote:

As far as chargers, I'll just pick up one of those smart chargers for now, seems like that should be ok...

An entire thread is devoted to batteries while the chargers are somewhat trivialized? Chargers are not discussed enough, IMO. Not necessarily responding to only you, VanRich.

At least 2 batteries (and 2 types of batteries) are needed, as has been stated (at least one conventional and at least one deep cycle). Additional deep cycle batteries are needed and used as warranted. So this amounts to at least $150 for good conventional and "Marine" batteries!

OK. Then spend at least $50 for a good battery charger. At least! As an example, you can get (for about $50) a Sears or other brand (automatic cutoff) battery charger with a 3-way switch for 10 amps, 2 amps (trickle charge) or 50 amps (for starting). The 10 amp setting should normally be used when charging.

Many brands of battery chargers have another switch that selects between Conventional or Deep Cycle type of battery being charged - use it (unless you only have 2 or more conventional batteries - this is not recommended).

There is some very good info in all these other posts.

My additional advice: Have and use at least two (2) "300 amp" or equivalent Main On-Off battery switches. Use one in the 12 volt/24 volt series/36 volt series trolling motor circuit. Use the second one in the 12 volt single battery/dual 12 volt battery parallel "Starting Motor (Kickuh)" circuit. Cut both of them off before travelling (as Alx stated).

Respect the fact that all sources of a blazing fire are present at the rear of your boat. Combustible (gasoline), oxygen (air) and ignition source (battery electrical spark). The only one you can somewhat control is ignition source. Use the Main On-Off battery switches and don't take the ignition source for granted. Be very careful with battery "juice" and gasoline...

I will reiterate what other posters stated: Keep 1, 2 or 3 batteries dedicated to the trolling motor while using the conventional "Starter" (Kickuh) battery for starting and all other accessories. Yes, I realize the extremely committed or affluent can dedicate a separate battery to accessories (or have 2 parallel starter/accessory 12 v. batteries - hard for me to cover all bases here!!!).

Hope I helped.
This post was edited on 5/2/12 at 1:30 am
first pageprev pagePage 4 of 4Next pagelast page
refresh

Back to top
logoFollow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News
Follow us on X, Facebook and Instagram to get the latest updates on LSU Football and Recruiting.

FacebookXInstagram