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Started By
Message
Help diagnose engine trouble (pretty sure it's alternator)
Posted on 8/23/17 at 1:32 pm
Posted on 8/23/17 at 1:32 pm
2010 f150 5.4L
Problem 1) it's a ford
Problem 2) battery not staying charged (brand new battery, just no juice left in it). If I jump it and disconnect the cables, it immediately dies when I disconnect the cables.
If I jump it and let it sit for a few min then disconnect cables, it'll run for a few seconds then die.
Alternator?
Truck aids?
Problem 1) it's a ford
Problem 2) battery not staying charged (brand new battery, just no juice left in it). If I jump it and disconnect the cables, it immediately dies when I disconnect the cables.
If I jump it and let it sit for a few min then disconnect cables, it'll run for a few seconds then die.
Alternator?
Truck aids?
4
Posted on 8/23/17 at 1:33 pm to Coon
Alternator.
Posted on 8/23/17 at 1:35 pm to Jj283
Ford
Posted on 8/23/17 at 1:43 pm to Coon
Alternator is most likely but you can get it checked to verify at places like AutoZone.
Posted on 8/23/17 at 1:44 pm to Sparkplug#1
Alternator. The truck should keep idling for a bit if it was working properly after you disconnected the battery. (Well in the old days that was a valid test, not sure how the computers respond to that type of test now)
Another test is get a multi-meter and test your battery voltage while it is idling. It should be around 13.9 to 14.2 while idling if the alternator is charging correctly. Then kill the truck, check the battery a few minutes later, if the surface charge is below 13.5 and is dropping rapidly below 12V, then the alternator is not charging he battery correctly.
However everything you have said so far indicates a bad alternator at this point.
Another test is get a multi-meter and test your battery voltage while it is idling. It should be around 13.9 to 14.2 while idling if the alternator is charging correctly. Then kill the truck, check the battery a few minutes later, if the surface charge is below 13.5 and is dropping rapidly below 12V, then the alternator is not charging he battery correctly.
However everything you have said so far indicates a bad alternator at this point.
This post was edited on 8/23/17 at 1:49 pm
Posted on 8/23/17 at 1:45 pm to Coon
quote:
Alternator
Don't see what else it could be and there is a way to test it before you take it anywhere for a diagnosis. Check youtube for videos. Also, I don't think they are that hard to change yourself. Just refer to youtube.
Posted on 8/23/17 at 1:52 pm to Yammie250F
Found one locally at advance auto. Also found a video on YouTube on changing it on this engine. Pretty easy. Will knock out this afternoon.
I can't really get it tested because I can't even keep it running for more than 30 seconds. I guess I could charge the battery and just let r run from there but I've already changed the battery and have the same problem.
I can't really get it tested because I can't even keep it running for more than 30 seconds. I guess I could charge the battery and just let r run from there but I've already changed the battery and have the same problem.
Posted on 8/23/17 at 2:02 pm to Yammie250F
quote:
I don't think they are that hard to change yourself.
It takes about 10-15 minutes to change. Plug the new one in before you start on the four mounting bolts. It took me an additional 4 hours to hitch a ride 50 miles round trip from Fruitdale, AL to Waynesboro, MS to get the alternator.
Buy online at Advance and pickup at the store using 30% off coupon code SCW347
Spin the alternator on the rebuilt one while at Advance. The first one they gave me the bearings started squealing within 2 weeks. I returned it and the second one had a bad feeling bearing when I spun it in the store. They didn't have another rebuilt in stock so they gave me a new non-rebuilt one and it's been good.
Posted on 8/23/17 at 3:36 pm to weadjust
quote:
Buy online at Advance and pickup at the store using 30% off coupon code SCW347
I owe you a beer, kind sir!!
Posted on 8/23/17 at 7:27 pm to Jj283
21 minutes from start to finish. Running like a champ. Thanks OB
Posted on 8/23/17 at 11:07 pm to Coon
Great thread - same issue on my 05 F150. Auto zone test told me it wasn't the alternator after I put in a fresh battery. Will return this Dur A Last and grab the Advance one. Thanks!
Posted on 8/24/17 at 2:02 pm to Coon
vehicles start using the electrical charge in battery
vehicle run using the electrical current from the alternator
if the alternator is bad, it will run off the batter charge until the battery is dead
change your alternator
vehicle run using the electrical current from the alternator
if the alternator is bad, it will run off the batter charge until the battery is dead
change your alternator
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