re: Eerie case of two renowned climbers missing on the Juneau Icefield. (pronounced dead)

I really don't know. Maybe broke through an ice bridge and both went in. Could be an avalanche or rock slide. The heavy snowfall probably wiped out most visual evidence. I'm not sure how deep the crevasse may be at that location.

It's almost impossible to fathom guys of that experience losing at the game. I suppose none of us can beat nature when it decides to rise against, regardless of the money we spend on gear or the time we spend training. LINK

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“It was an emotional decision to make for all concerned,” said fellow athlete and ACMG Guide Paul McSorley, who helped with the search alongside Marc-Andre’s family and partner Brette Harrington. “The Juneau Mountain Rescue team are volunteers and many are close friends with Ryan and knew Marc-Andre. We are all so grateful for their tireless dedication and determination to uncover what happened. I know this has been of great support to both families and friends looking for answers.”

The pair summited the Mendenhall Tower on Monday, March 5th and were expected back by nightfall on Wednesday, March 7th. Both men were familiar with the route and prepared appropriately for the conditions. When they didn’t return, extensive search and rescue efforts were deployed, but sadly were called off today after search teams discovered two ropes in the run out zone of the 4th gulley, matching the description of the gear carried by the climbers. “Significant avalanche dangers in the area are hindering a recovery at this time,” said Alaska State Troopers.

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quote: I can put myself in their mindset - they summit, take some pictures, congratulate each other, post to the internet and then relax - a bit. I mean, the hard part is over, right?

They head back to camp where they dumped the gear they didn't need to summit, then hear a rumble. Both of these guys were experienced and made it through hairy spots before, but then OH shite. Nature is brutal, particularly at the top of a mountain.

RIP

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Your post reminds me of a comment I heard Ed Viesturs make in one of his interviews about Mt. Everest. It is very specific to climbing 8,000(+) meter mountains, but I think it can also be applied to other risky recreational activities.

"Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory"

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Your post reminds me of a comment I heard Ed Viesturs make in one of his interviews about Mt. Everest. It is very specific to climbing 8,000(+) meter mountains, but I think it can also be applied to other risky recreational activities.

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True - I would defer to Roger, but I suspect this particular climb is challenging, but not at the level of the more difficult technical climbs or the 8000m peaks. Challenging because of accessibility, the nature of the range and peaks, etc., but for these guys - this is comparable to Formula 3, whereas peaks like K2, Nanga Parbat, Makalu, Everest and about a dozen more would be Formula 1.

In this case, they were relying on cell phones for communication, and not beacons or sat phones - in the winter, in Alaska. And I don't think this was considered foolhardy or negligent behavior. This seemed to be a legitimate risk/reward choice on their part. If it was a rockslide or avalanche, those measures would have been fruitless, anyway.

But you can still get killed in a Formula 3 race care - and it not be your fault, at that.

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True - I would defer to Roger, but I suspect this particular climb is challenging, but not at the level of the more difficult technical climbs or the 8000m peaks. Challenging because of accessibility, the nature of the range and peaks, etc., but for these guys - this is comparable to Formula 3, whereas peaks like K2, Nanga Parbat, Makalu, Everest and about a dozen more would be Formula 1.

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The main dangers in the icefield any time of year is avalanche, particularly this time of year when we have some freeze/thaw cycles. This can also affect rock where ice wedges contract, expand etc causing rock falls. It's also not uncommon to have winds in excess of 100 mph in the winter, called Taku Winds.

I'll say this and it's no indictment on anyone but I would never consider an trip across any part of the upper glaciers or icefield with a two person team any time of year, much less winter/spring. I know they had done this before, but looking at some videos Ryan had posted before and he seemed comfortable with 2-3 persons up there. Maybe too comfortable? I don't know.

There are still peaks up there that haven't been climbed and I'm sure as long as theres a challenge, there will be people who try to overcome it.

When I moved here in the mid 90's parts of the icefield were unmapped, and even today it's constantly changing as glaciers grind down the valleys, new crevices come up, ice bridges become unstable etc.