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Started By
Message
Anyone with body shop experience? Need help painting my son's go-cart.
Posted on 6/23/16 at 1:27 pm
Posted on 6/23/16 at 1:27 pm
My 10 yr old son recently acquired an old go-cart frame that would become a father/son project. It has an aluminum body and no noticeable dings or cracks to the welds. He striped the paint and sanded down the frame using 60/120/240. He wiped it down with mineral spirits to get it clean and followed that with two coats of primer (smoothed out with 800 grit) and two coats of the paint color his choice. Should he wet sand the frame now before hitting it with clear coat? And does he wet sand the clear coat at all? He is looking for that smooth satin finish. TIA.
3
Posted on 6/23/16 at 1:32 pm to Black n Gold
quote:
Should he wet sand the frame now before hitting it with clear coat? And does he wet sand the clear coat at all? He is looking for that smooth satin finish. TIA.
Sorry no shop experience, but I'd think you would sand the paint, then hit it with satin clear. I dont think satin clear does well sanded, if I am not mistaken.
props to him for the tedious work for a 10yo
This post was edited on 6/23/16 at 1:33 pm
Posted on 6/23/16 at 1:42 pm to NYCAuburn
I thought the same. Wet sand the paint, apply the satin clear and let dry.
He has gone through half of my Dremel attachments refurbishing a $75 go-cart.
He has gone through half of my Dremel attachments refurbishing a $75 go-cart.
Posted on 6/23/16 at 2:18 pm to Black n Gold
If you're using automotive paint, NO, do not sand the basecoat.
Wait 30 minutes, and then spray the clear.
If it's a metallic color, you'll screw up the flakes by sanding.
The only time you'd need to sand the basecoat is if you let it dry longer than 24 hours.
At that point, you'd sand and apply another coat of basecoat color before applying the clear.
You'd have to use a pre-matted clear or add flattener to the clearcoat.
Wait 30 minutes, and then spray the clear.
If it's a metallic color, you'll screw up the flakes by sanding.
The only time you'd need to sand the basecoat is if you let it dry longer than 24 hours.
At that point, you'd sand and apply another coat of basecoat color before applying the clear.
quote:
smooth satin finish
You'd have to use a pre-matted clear or add flattener to the clearcoat.
This post was edited on 6/23/16 at 2:20 pm
Posted on 6/23/16 at 2:22 pm to Shexter
quote:
The only time you'd need to sand the basecoat is if you let it dry longer than 24 hours. At that point, you'd sand and apply another coat of basecoat color before applying the clear.
I'm pretty sure he's not use automotive paint. He last sprayed it two days ago. Should he apply a third coat or wet sand and clear coat? The paint currently o the bike is slightly rougher than he wants it to be. Will the clear coat smooth out those imperfections?
Posted on 6/23/16 at 2:28 pm to Black n Gold
What's he using? Aerosol cans?
Sprayed the base two days ago - For good adhesion, I'd lightly sand that base with 800-1000, tack it off, and spray a light coat of base.
Don't use the mineral spirits to wipe it down. Mineral spirits has a light oil in it that will cause fisheyes.
If he needs to wipe it down after sanding, just use some rubbing alcohol. It will flash off quickly and not leave any residues behind.
Sprayed the base two days ago - For good adhesion, I'd lightly sand that base with 800-1000, tack it off, and spray a light coat of base.
Don't use the mineral spirits to wipe it down. Mineral spirits has a light oil in it that will cause fisheyes.
If he needs to wipe it down after sanding, just use some rubbing alcohol. It will flash off quickly and not leave any residues behind.
Posted on 6/23/16 at 2:37 pm to Shexter
What Shexter says is correct, but if you've let it sit for 2 days you could get some gray scotch brite hand pads and sand it with them wet. It will be a lot quicker and easier than wet sanding it with paper again. All you need to do is rough up the surface so that the paint will have something to stick to.
A good trick to go by is when you're using the scotch brite wet, water will bead up and not run off of spots that aren't sanded good enough. Once you get it sanded good, the water will cover the metal and stay put for some time until it either dries or runs off.
A good trick to go by is when you're using the scotch brite wet, water will bead up and not run off of spots that aren't sanded good enough. Once you get it sanded good, the water will cover the metal and stay put for some time until it either dries or runs off.
Posted on 6/23/16 at 2:42 pm to Black n Gold
Probably too late for this advice but be sure to wear a mask when sanding aluminum with a power tool.
Posted on 6/23/16 at 3:00 pm to Shexter
So he should light sand with 800-1000, wipe clean with rubbing alcohol, and give it another base coat and clear coat within the hour? Trying to understand the timing of these applications.
Posted on 6/23/16 at 3:14 pm to Black n Gold
Hit it with scotch brite pad, wipe down good, lay clear coat.
Posted on 6/23/16 at 3:17 pm to DiamondHawgFan
quote:
Hit it with scotch brite pad, wipe down good, lay clear coat.
Does he use soap and water when using the pad?
Posted on 6/23/16 at 3:23 pm to Black n Gold
I'm no body man other then my own projects. I never have. Always used the red pads dry. Wipe all the dust/dirt with alcohol, and clear it. It'll turn out nice and shiny.
Posted on 6/23/16 at 3:24 pm to Black n Gold
Plain water, don't use soap. It can leave residue behind.
Make sure all the water is gone. Let it sit for 30 minutes to make sure it all evaporates off.
Most basecoat/clearcoats are 30 minutes between base and clear. Max time between base and clear is usually 24 hours.
Is the aerosol can of clear the same brand as the base color paint? Make sure they're designed to work together. If you put laquer clear over enamel paint, it will probably wrinkle immediately.
Might want to test it out on a scrap piece of metal first.
Make sure all the water is gone. Let it sit for 30 minutes to make sure it all evaporates off.
Most basecoat/clearcoats are 30 minutes between base and clear. Max time between base and clear is usually 24 hours.
Is the aerosol can of clear the same brand as the base color paint? Make sure they're designed to work together. If you put laquer clear over enamel paint, it will probably wrinkle immediately.
Might want to test it out on a scrap piece of metal first.
Posted on 6/23/16 at 3:31 pm to Shexter
Shexter
What's the advantage of putting the clear over a fresh base coat? Never have done that, but fixing to paint my old truck in a few weeks and you seem to know your stuff.
What's the advantage of putting the clear over a fresh base coat? Never have done that, but fixing to paint my old truck in a few weeks and you seem to know your stuff.
Posted on 6/23/16 at 3:31 pm to Shexter
quote:
Is the aerosol can of clear the same brand as the base color paint? Make sure they're designed to work together. If you put laquer clear over enamel paint, it will probably wrinkle immediately.
Same brands. Not sure about the laquer/enamel part. I'm assuming I can pull this information off of the front of the can.
Did I mention he's painting the entire frame gold.
Posted on 6/23/16 at 3:42 pm to DiamondHawgFan
quote:
What's the advantage of putting the clear over a fresh base coat?
With base/clear paint, the basecoat won't shine by itself and doesn't have any UV protection.
Waiting only 30 minutes makes the basecoat and clear melt together just a bit.
If you wait longer than 24 hours, you lose some adhesion. The clear might delaminate within a year. You also risk having something in the air (oil, dust, etc) land on the base.
quote:
spraying the entire frame gold
This post was edited on 6/23/16 at 3:44 pm
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