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re: Best brands for car speaker systems
Posted on 5/5/25 at 6:33 am to salty1
Posted on 5/5/25 at 6:33 am to salty1
quote:
Everything comes down to tuning today.
This is what convinced me to get a DSP. I went a lazier route with the Alpine Optim because it has an “auto” tuning feature. I’d love to get someone with proper mics/equipment to legit tune my setup but honestly I think the Alpine auto tune is like 90% there, which is good enough for my needs.
0
Posted on 5/5/25 at 7:29 am to salty1
Good stuff. For the record, two of my three bass amps are Class D. I guess it’s just powered PA speakers that have the issue of overstating watts. And it could also be an ohms issue as max power is usually 2 to 4 ohms and they usually only have one 8 ohm speaker.
This post was edited on 5/5/25 at 7:31 am
Posted on 5/5/25 at 7:42 am to Chad504boy
quote:
my vehicle shows 6 1/2 " speakers for doors if that helps Its a smaller sized SUV so i have a rear cargo space that i'm trying not to have a space consuming woofer, sleak would be better.
Just went through this. Trying to stay as oem as I could, but did swap the HU because I got a crazy good deal on eBay and wanted CarPlay.
I went with power bass, they have a line of “oem” that fit your doors without adapters. They sound good enough. Bought them used (big mistake) and one of the 6x9s didn’t produce bass, so I wound up with a single focal that is a similar oem style, that thing sounds really good. Back doors were blown but wound up with new but same brand, so I retained one of four speakers I purchased used. DS18 makes a tweeter that is plug and play with most Toyotas for the dash or pillar tweeters.
I ran a line out and will be putting a sub under the front seat. Haven’t decided which one yet, they are a little pricier than I would like them to be but around $200 will get a decent one so not all that bad. I did a lot of cosmetic upgrades at the same time so trying to save money, but definitely feel like I’m missing some volume and bottom end.
If sticking with an oem head unit, this company beat Sonic makes small amps that plus directly into the factory harness, little 200w amp that is designed to just give a boost or push aftermarket door speakers more. Didn’t get one but they get great reviews. I got a discontinued Stinger HU (which was a bitch to install) that pushes everything ok, would like some more volume, but has great audio control.
There was also a site called oem+ audio that does full systems but that seemed too much.
Car audio has changed a lot in some ways but at the same time hasn’t changed much. There is a harness or adapter for everything these days, but finding the right one can be an unnecessary challenge. Alpine, Infinity/JBL and Kenwood still considered high quality. Kicker seems to have a better reputation. JL and Focal are premium. Obviously leaving lots out just naming some of the bigger names. But a handful of companies have been recycled for the label but now suck. And there are more crappy wal mart/amazon type brands you have to wade through. A new head unit is no longer a must, and amplification comes in smaller packages.
This post was edited on 5/5/25 at 9:22 am
Posted on 5/5/25 at 9:09 am to salty1
quote:
The class D vs. A/B debate was ended years ago, in my opinion. There’s simply no distinguishing between a top shelf class D and a comparable class A/B.
As an old bass head the class d amps efficiency is a huge advantage. The prices are also incredible. It use to be that you'd pay 2 bucks a watt...now you can get a decent Amp making rated power for 15 cents a watt. It's one of just a handful of things that has dropped so drastically in price.
I hadn't built a system since the 90s and recently helped my son with his. I just couldn't believe the performance for the price now. To get the performance he has in his car 30 years ago you'd need 1000 pounds of batteries and half a years pay.
Posted on 5/5/25 at 6:02 pm to LanierSpots
Posted on 5/6/25 at 3:50 pm to salty1
Salty, thanks for your help and time with this! I recently bought a 2024 Silverado Trail Boss, and was wondering if you knew if the ‘Infotainment’ radio/screen can handle a 4 channel and sub amp without losing the nice screen? Thanks a bunch to Salty and anyone that wants to chime in! 
Oh, and I guess I’m trashy too??
ETA: Will it sound like shite by keeping the factory unit?
Oh, and I guess I’m trashy too??
ETA: Will it sound like shite by keeping the factory unit?
This post was edited on 5/6/25 at 8:40 pm
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