re: Apple Can Delete Purchased Movies From Your Library

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. I also have the equipment capable of taking advantage of the higher resolution and delivering it

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What are you running?

Curious.

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Lossless? Is there any such thing?

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Of course not. Even if we don't consider replication error, which is inherit in every copy, we can only get close to lossless. Bottom line is, our ears can't hear the difference anyway. I really can't hear the difference between anything recorded above 256, so apple lossless is plenty good enough for me.

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Once I had a hard drive crash and lost all the ripped cd music I had stored on it.

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I have an external hard drive that remains unplugged from the wall that I sync all my important files with about once a week using Microsoft synctoy.

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Plus, my ipod is so classic that Apple no longer supports it.

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I don't see how this is relevant. It's a music source player. What needs to be updated about it? My CD player has served me well for years and never needed an updating. Either it played the CDs or it didn't.

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And I can't get it to play on my 2017 Mazda's aux setting. Only on my Bose system inside

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Yes. This shite drives me crazy but this is an issue with your vehicle not the iPod. Some vehicles don't play well with Legacy devices. If you have a newer device you need to check with Mazda to see if there's a software/firmware update available.

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If I try to update it, or sync it, iTunes wants to first erase all that is stored on it. Any way around that?

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ITunes is your base for your music library. You have to treat your iPods and other music players as thumb drives where you move files on and off of it. The problem is people download things to their phones and iPods and then that media gets locked to the devices. That's why a lot of people are switching to this Cloud nonsense. I don't use my media players in this manner so I'm not sure what the workaround is for it.

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And it doesn't play nice-nice with Alexa.

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Something else I don't have any use for. It's a solution without a problem. I don't spend my money on those things.

Sorry I can't help with those last two.

ETA: external device compatibility with vehicle infotainment systems has always been a problem but it's been a bigger problem in recent years as manufacturers are tying all these vehicle systems together through the stereo. In the old days if you wanted sound in your vehicle you would just pop out the factory single or double DIN and toss it in the trash and go buy an aftermarket unit. The aftermarket stereo manufacturers were good about releasing firmware updates. The auto manufacturers, not so much. On top of it they charge you dealership mechanics rates to do them if they have them.

For example, my 2010 MB works great with my iPod of similar vintage but the GPS system is an absolute disaster. It's the worst GPS system I've ever used in my life and I've been using them since the early days. You would think being a Mercedes it would be top notch but my $200 Garmin that I have suction cupped to my windshield in my Civic blows it away.

Well, if it’s in the terms of service agreement then there really is no beef. His fault for not reading it

That's Apple for you.

This has everything to do with their greedy proprietary ways. IPods are just interfaces for mini hard drives. There's no reason at all you shouldnt be able to move files to and from them but apple has worked it out so that anything that goes in an iPod stays on an iPod until you can sync it with your original music library on that one computer running that one iTunes program that it's linked to.

I wish I could be of more assistance to you but I'm not a tech nerd either. Best advice I can give you is to prevent this from happening again in the future, get yourself an external hard drive and sync toy, which is a free program, and make sure you backup all your important files at least once a week. Also, keep this hard drive unplugged from both your computer and the power receptacle to prevent being fried from Power surges and lightning strikes

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a). A modified, stripped down MacMini running Audirvana or Amarra as a player with iTunes as a library/indexing system

b). A Sonos connect

c). An Aurender N10 streamer



For DACs among them, I use...

a). McIntosh D1100 reference DAC

b). McIntosh D100 DAC

c). Simaudio Evolution DAC

d). Peachtree DAC

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What are you running for amps and speakers?

Any service can

People need to learn to keep better copies of their data. It sounds like Apple didn't delete the purchased movie from the person's library, but the person deleted their file or changed devices and expected to be able to retrieve the movie from Apple anytime forever until the end of time.

It doesn't sound like he already had the movie and Apple triggered the movie file to be deleted or that the movie file could no longer be played back through the iTunes software.

Back your shite up. Don't depend on some cloud service to store your data forever.

For those praising hard copies of stuff, do you expect to be able to get new copies of that stuff if you lose your copies in theft or disaster?

You can go higher than 500v if necessary, just not lower. Also, you can solder (2) 60pF in parallel and that will give you 120pF capacitance. It is done sometimes when a design is complete and after testing, it is decided that more capacitance is needed, so they will solder on another cap to increase. It is also done where space is an issue...larger values mean a physically larger cap, and sometimes a board may not have room on top, so they split the value and solder one onto the bottom and the top to achieve the same capacitance.

As far as caps go, I am partial to Mundorf for tube gear. They are pretty reliable.
Vishay is also good.

I hate working on transistor gear, but will if I have to.

The big question is—is there something about the amp that you don’t like or want to change? What do you plan on achieving with different caps?

I'm aware of how to reach all the different values. I was more interested in picking your brain about the quality of those particular brands or series of component that I was considering. Soldering back to back on the board wouldn't work for me anyway because the whole PCB is mounted to a large heatsink. I would only be able to do tandem mounting on one side of the PCB and there's not room for two anyway. I'm pretty much stuck using 100uf. They also have a 150 value but that's further away from the original 120.

I looked at Mundorf but they all appear to be axial. I need radial or boxed. Either way pins have to be on same side. My pads are PCM 5.

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The big question is—is there something about the amp that you don’t like or want to change? What do you plan on achieving with different caps?

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Well I had a lightning strike and I blew some mosfets and a few transistors, some resistors and a few caps. I figured since I was in there and this unit was built in like '98 or some shite, that I should go ahead and recap the whole thing.

There are some mylars that measured fine that I'm going to leave in place. There were some large 100V 100uF, Rubicon CE W electrolytics that were also good that I'm leaving alone. The ones Im replacing are a bunch of 10uF and 100uF 25v and 50V NIC NRSA and NNR electrolytics. Some nonpolar. Also replacing the silver micas which all measured out of range.