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Satsuma recovery(from cold) - died, need to replace

Posted on 4/6/21 at 9:50 am
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81655 posts
Posted on 4/6/21 at 9:50 am
I did not cover or heat my tree this winter. I did wrap the trunk with a yoga mat. The main trunk splits into two large limbs that then branch out multiple times. One of these is putting out new leaves and blooms like crazy on all branches. The other side only shows a couple of spots where new leaves are coming out. All the old leaves turned brown and fell.

Is this normal? Is the slow side going to recover? Is there anything I should do now?
This post was edited on 8/30/21 at 10:43 am
Posted by Wiseguy
Member since Mar 2020
3396 posts
Posted on 4/6/21 at 11:53 am to
Scratch the bark on a couple of the limbs with no new growth. If they are green than they should eventually grow new leaves. If they are dead then prune them and over time the tree will grow new branches there.
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81655 posts
Posted on 5/25/21 at 8:55 am to
So, after half the tree leafed out, they are all shriveling. Can I plant a new one this time of year? Can I even find one this time of year? Ready to give up on this one.
Posted by hungryone
river parishes
Member since Sep 2010
11987 posts
Posted on 5/25/21 at 10:19 am to
Don't give up. Shriveled leaves can be caused by many things, like leaf miners. In the case of leaf miners, it is mostly cosmetic damage & the leaf will remain green & continue to do its job of photosynthesis. Treat for the leaf miners and new growth will be fine.

It is far too late to plant new citrus. That is best done in February. Anything planted now will suffer in the summer heat & not have sufficient feeder roots to cope with hot, dry weather. If you do chance it, you'll need to monitor it every day & water accordingly. It can keel over from improper watering (too much or too little).

It takes patience to deal with fruit trees--they bloom & grow on an annual cycle. Better to prune off the deadwood from an established tree and give it a couple years to recover. If you started over with a new tree, you'd be in for the same 2-3 years wait for it to be productive anyway.

All of my citrus survived this winter's deep freeze, but only 2 of 5 set any fruit this year. They are focusing their energies on staying alive, not on reproducing (fruiting). I'm sure next year will offer a bumper crop if this winter is mild.
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81655 posts
Posted on 5/25/21 at 11:03 am to
Thanks. OK, I am in no real hurry. I'll watch for now and replant next year if need be.
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81655 posts
Posted on 8/30/21 at 10:42 am to
OK, so it's now as a hammer dead above ground with green shoots coming from the roots. I assume those will be some worthless species used for the graft? When do I replace, and what should I know about varieties?
Posted by boudinman
Member since Nov 2019
5064 posts
Posted on 8/30/21 at 2:16 pm to
Ive covered mine past 4 years with a tarp to keep dry and a HF thick blanket. Worked well until the week long ice/snow last winter. Killed them all. I'm not planting anymore. Going with fruiting plants that are more winter hardy, like blueberries, peaches, plums, figs, etc. No more citrus for me here in northern lousiana.
Posted by RockoRou
SW Miss
Member since Mar 2015
632 posts
Posted on 8/31/21 at 2:29 pm to
I have 3 Satsumas in SW Miss that I transplanted from S La. after Katrina. I planted them on the south side of my house, near a couple window. If it gets lower than 20 degrees, I hang a large piece of heavy plastic from my gutter or try to cover the tree as best as I can. I then crack a window near the tree, hoping for some heat, and hope for the best. 16 years and still going, even through the ice storm of last year.
Works for me.
Posted by BallsEleven
Member since Mar 2019
6163 posts
Posted on 8/31/21 at 2:49 pm to
quote:

I assume those will be some worthless species used for the graft?


Yeah, that is the rootstock. It is trash and will more than likely produce a sour fruit if left to grow.

quote:

When do I replace, and what should I know about varieties?


If you have time for some reading, try this LSUAg pdf on Louisiana citrus.
Posted by luvdoc
"Please Ignore Our Yelp Reviews"
Member since May 2005
919 posts
Posted on 8/31/21 at 7:37 pm to
let the suckers grow from the rootstock for now, then in late winter collect some equivalent-thickness donor branches (scion) from a friend or neighbor of whatever citrus you want to grow (or more than one!) and graft onto your rootstock suckers.

Plenty of great tutorials on yutube. A razorblade and rubberbands is all that you really need, though a roll of paraffin tape is handy to keep the scion and joint from drying out before union occurs.

You've got a head start in the old rootball and can create your own tree.
Posted by jlsufan
Baton Rouge
Member since May 2021
262 posts
Posted on 8/31/21 at 9:16 pm to
my great uncle did this and grafted a satsuma and kumquat onto the same root stock...had a combo citrus tree
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81655 posts
Posted on 9/1/21 at 10:04 am to
Man, I am tempted by this, but honestly, satsumas do not appear to be common in CENLA, and most got hit hard. I will if I can, but more likely I just dig it all up and start over.
Posted by luvdoc
"Please Ignore Our Yelp Reviews"
Member since May 2005
919 posts
Posted on 9/1/21 at 10:56 am to
kumquats and satsumas are the most cold hardy citrus, and you are definitely at the northern end of citrus viability there in central LA. Either one, or any other citrus, would do well on your root stock otherwise, though.

The main advantage of grafting is you will probably be quicker to fruit production, and you can select exactly what variety or varieties you wish to grow
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81655 posts
Posted on 9/1/21 at 2:00 pm to
quote:

The main advantage of grafting is you will probably be quicker to fruit production, and you can select exactly what variety or varieties you wish to grow


So, should I just go buy new trees and then graft branches from those?
Posted by BallsEleven
Member since Mar 2019
6163 posts
Posted on 9/1/21 at 2:02 pm to
quote:

So, should I just go buy new trees and then graft branches from those?


Do you know of anyone that has a good producing tree already established?
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81655 posts
Posted on 9/1/21 at 2:17 pm to
No, I really don't.
Posted by luvdoc
"Please Ignore Our Yelp Reviews"
Member since May 2005
919 posts
Posted on 9/1/21 at 2:52 pm to
I have bought trees for the sole purpose of taking a small branch for grafting, then given the tree way. But I usually raid the orchard of a fellow Gardener
This post was edited on 9/1/21 at 3:04 pm
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81655 posts
Posted on 9/1/21 at 3:12 pm to
Thanks. I may raid a bought tree, then plant it also.
Posted by luvdoc
"Please Ignore Our Yelp Reviews"
Member since May 2005
919 posts
Posted on 9/1/21 at 3:15 pm to
If you have the room, There is nothing wrong with more trees! and you may find that location goes a long way towards surviving the worst of the winter cold.
Posted by BayouBengal51
Forest Hill, Louisiana
Member since Nov 2006
6548 posts
Posted on 9/2/21 at 1:50 pm to
quote:

Thanks. I may raid a bought tree, then plant it also.


Look into Marcotting, it is super easy to do and you can create clones of any tree. I'm gong to be doing this soon with my large Satsuma tree in my back yard.
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