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Engine Temp Light after Serpentine Belt Replacement
Posted on 6/21/24 at 3:49 pm
Posted on 6/21/24 at 3:49 pm
I've got a 2010 Toyota Yaris with about 153,000 miles on it. Really only driven for work commutes three days a week. The serpentine belt snapped on it and I replaced it last weekend. Everything seems to be routed and turning in the right direction. I get a slight squeal when first starting it but after it's warmed up it's fine.
I start getting the temperature light on the dash coming on and going off after about 10 minutes of driving. If I'm going a good speed it doesn't come on but when accelerating to about 40-50 mph it'll come on for a bit then turn off.
Is the belt not tight enough? I don't see any coolant leaks anywhere and the levels seem ok.
I start getting the temperature light on the dash coming on and going off after about 10 minutes of driving. If I'm going a good speed it doesn't come on but when accelerating to about 40-50 mph it'll come on for a bit then turn off.
Is the belt not tight enough? I don't see any coolant leaks anywhere and the levels seem ok.
5
Posted on 6/21/24 at 4:04 pm to Wabbit7
Possibly the water pump going out.
Could also be a faulty engine coolant temperature sensor. $25 from AutoZone.
Run it over to an AutoZone and have them run the code scanner on the car.
They don't charge anything to run the codes.
Posted on 6/21/24 at 4:28 pm to Wabbit7
quote:
Is the belt not tight enough? I don't see any coolant leaks anywhere and the levels seem ok.
I'd lean toward this since it's the last thing you changed and you shouldn't be getting squealing at any time, cold or warm.
I would get the oem belt and put it on.
The tensioner may be worn out also, this could have been what caused the original belt to fail also.
I am not saying to fire the parts cannon at it, but at 153k a new oem belt and tensioner would be considered normal long term maintenance.
This post was edited on 6/21/24 at 4:30 pm
Posted on 6/21/24 at 4:39 pm to Wabbit7
Sometimes things seem related when they aren’t. Water pump should spin fairly freely by hand. this sounds like the issue given your story but usually a bad bearing will also take out a seal and leak. Belts don’t usually snap for no reason. Hell, I had an idler pulley fall off like 120k miles ago and chewed up an already ten year old belt. That 15 year old chewed up belt is still turning things fine. Tensioner as others have said could be another related issue.
90% of the time it is just a thermostat though.
90% of the time it is just a thermostat though.
This post was edited on 6/21/24 at 8:13 pm
Posted on 6/21/24 at 7:37 pm to AndyCBR
Agree on a worn belt tensioner, which should be changed, if it hasn't been done recently and given the mileage on the vehicle.
Posted on 6/22/24 at 12:46 am to Wabbit7
Are you sure the new belt was exactly the same length as the old one? A while back, Ihad to take my old belt off and bring it up there, as they kept giving me the wrong size. I even match part numbers up with the old belt and even that was the wrong size.
Have someone pull any codes and check those too.
Have someone pull any codes and check those too.
Posted on 6/22/24 at 7:49 pm to Wabbit7
Electrical connector on the sensor could be damaged. Might have damaged something with the pry bar when replacing the belt.
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