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Attic Insulation Question
Posted on 6/13/23 at 8:20 am
Posted on 6/13/23 at 8:20 am
Like some of yall with these temps my ac has been running non stop from about 2:30-6. This is my first summer with my new 4 ton ac and it's doing better than the previous 3 ton but still runs a lot (12 hours a day). The main problem is I know my attic is not insulated fully. Some parts are and some are not. It's also a extremely low pitched roof and most parts of my attic a person can not get to. At 5 yesterday I took a infrared temp gun to my ceiling where I know I have good insulation and the ceiling read 73, then I took it to the ceiling in the foyer where my thermostat is and got a reading of 88. Will getting up in the attic and insulating just the area in the foyer/hallway make a difference for now? I have always felt my house is cooler than the reading I get on my thermostat. Clearly hot air is seeping through very close to my thermostat causing the reading to be hotter than it probably really is.
5
Posted on 6/13/23 at 8:27 am to yomamak
Have you checked attic temperature? Are you getting enough air flow, removing heat from the attic. An yes, insulation creates that buffer, between attic and room.
Posted on 6/13/23 at 8:41 am to LSUDad
I have not checked the temp up there as I'm sure its pure hell. Between the low pitched roof and absolutely zero shade I know I'm getting all the heat up there.
As far as vents go I have one of each side of the long run of the house but that's it. No whirlybird or anything like that.
As far as vents go I have one of each side of the long run of the house but that's it. No whirlybird or anything like that.
Posted on 6/13/23 at 8:55 am to yomamak
I had the same situation last year at a rent house. A large water oak had been removed which resulted in no shade.
The roof had a very low pitch and I had never attempted to get in the attic as a result.
The AC had served it's time and needed replacement. The company that changed it out had an insulation service which I used.
They had a very small person get in the attic and blow in insulation. It really helped out.
The roof had a very low pitch and I had never attempted to get in the attic as a result.
The AC had served it's time and needed replacement. The company that changed it out had an insulation service which I used.
They had a very small person get in the attic and blow in insulation. It really helped out.
Posted on 6/13/23 at 9:52 am to yomamak
Should the walls of a bonus rm that is in the attic be insulated if the exterior walls of the house has insulation?
Posted on 6/13/23 at 11:19 am to yomamak
Certainly adding insulation and sealing “gaps” (electrical, plumbing, where drywall sheets join each other, etc) between the attic and conditioned space below will help, and where you should focus your effort, and I think you answered you own question with your ceiling temperature readings. Code minimum in S LA is R-30, but R-36/R-40/would be better.
But let me add, a HVAC running non-stop from like 11 am - 7 pm, if properly sized, and if outside temperature exceeds HVAC design conditions (for example for BR that is 92 F), is perfectly normal - and that’s for maintaining a temperature of 75 F inside the house - if you keep it cooler it will obliviously run longer.
But let me add, a HVAC running non-stop from like 11 am - 7 pm, if properly sized, and if outside temperature exceeds HVAC design conditions (for example for BR that is 92 F), is perfectly normal - and that’s for maintaining a temperature of 75 F inside the house - if you keep it cooler it will obliviously run longer.
This post was edited on 6/13/23 at 4:42 pm
Posted on 6/13/23 at 11:38 am to CrawDude
i think when myself and my hvac guy did the calculations for my new unit i was in between a 3 and a 4 but went with the 4 because of my house conditions.
Looking at attic fans now to help as well.
Looking at attic fans now to help as well.
Posted on 6/13/23 at 5:06 pm to yomamak
quote:
I have always felt my house is cooler than the reading I get on my thermostat. Clearly hot air is seeping through very close to my thermostat causing the reading to be hotter than it probably really is.
Is your thermostat fairly close to the return air grill? If not it should be. It should be located on an interior wall, away from windows.
Also it’s a good idea to place a wad of insulation in the hole behind the thermostat where the thermostat wires exit the wall as hot air from the attic, if not properly sealed, can seep down through the wall cavity (heat always chases cold) and potentially give a “false” air temperature reading.
Alternatively, a thermostat that communicates with 1 or more remote temperature sensors can be used to average out temperature throughout the house. Something like this Honeywell T-9 Smart Thermostat
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