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Changing neck on guitar question?
Posted on 9/5/18 at 10:40 am
Posted on 9/5/18 at 10:40 am
I have a MIM strat that I like, but I'm not crazy about the neck. I was wanting to put an American Professional neck on it. My mexican strat neck has 21 frets, while the American has 22. I wouldn't think there would be a problem being as both are the same scale length, but I wanted to ask before buying.
Posted on 9/5/18 at 11:46 am to Easye921
You're married to the idea of an American Professional neck from Fender?
I would consider Warmoth options for a MIM Strat, as well, although I don't see a problem with getting a Fender replacement either.
(ETA: And waiting for FretShack to give a more detailed, professional answer as he usually does.)
I would consider Warmoth options for a MIM Strat, as well, although I don't see a problem with getting a Fender replacement either.
(ETA: And waiting for FretShack to give a more detailed, professional answer as he usually does.)
This post was edited on 9/5/18 at 11:48 am
Posted on 9/5/18 at 11:48 am to Easye921
Posted on 9/5/18 at 2:31 pm to Ace Midnight
A 22-fret strat neck is created by slightly extending the fretboard, not the neck heel itself. You won't run into neck pocket problems.
Sometimes the thickness of the "tongue" of the 22-fret board combined with the thickness of a multi-ply pickguard will inhibit the neck sitting flat and flush in the pocket. The easiest solution in that case is to use a thinner, one-ply pickguard ... or to DELICATELY cut away the pickguard under the tongue with a router or a high-speed rotary tool (Dremel).
Sometimes the thickness of the "tongue" of the 22-fret board combined with the thickness of a multi-ply pickguard will inhibit the neck sitting flat and flush in the pocket. The easiest solution in that case is to use a thinner, one-ply pickguard ... or to DELICATELY cut away the pickguard under the tongue with a router or a high-speed rotary tool (Dremel).
Posted on 9/5/18 at 2:55 pm to TheFretShack
Other points ...
** My favorite non-logo'ed but Fender-licensed 22-fret modern radius necks are the MIJ 22-fretters offered at Allparts.com; and the American necks made by Musikraft. Both Allparts and Musikraft have consistently better fret work out of the box versus recent Warmoth. I personally would buy an older, used Warmoth neck before I would buy a new one if it was for a project of my own. They still make decent stuff, I just like their older stuff better.
** If the neck you get doesn't have pre-drilled holes, you need to do that or you run GREAT, GREAT, GREAT risk of splitting the heel and/or breaking bolts in the heel. Even with pre-drilled holes, use a dab of lip balm on the screws' tips to lubricate as they cut their channels.
** Even matching the existing scale length, you will likely need a set-up after the switcheroo due to subtle variances in fingerboard radius and intonation. Budget a bench visit to your tech of choice if you don't DIY those tasks.
** My favorite non-logo'ed but Fender-licensed 22-fret modern radius necks are the MIJ 22-fretters offered at Allparts.com; and the American necks made by Musikraft. Both Allparts and Musikraft have consistently better fret work out of the box versus recent Warmoth. I personally would buy an older, used Warmoth neck before I would buy a new one if it was for a project of my own. They still make decent stuff, I just like their older stuff better.
** If the neck you get doesn't have pre-drilled holes, you need to do that or you run GREAT, GREAT, GREAT risk of splitting the heel and/or breaking bolts in the heel. Even with pre-drilled holes, use a dab of lip balm on the screws' tips to lubricate as they cut their channels.
** Even matching the existing scale length, you will likely need a set-up after the switcheroo due to subtle variances in fingerboard radius and intonation. Budget a bench visit to your tech of choice if you don't DIY those tasks.
Posted on 9/5/18 at 3:56 pm to TheFretShack
quote:
I personally would buy an older, used Warmoth neck before I would buy a new one if it was for a project of my own. They still make decent stuff, I just like their older stuff better.
Far enough - I first started looking at Warmoth stuff a long time ago.
Somewhat related - if I wanted to do a budget "luthier" build, do you think it would be better to find a gently used MIM Strat and swap out parts as necessary OR start with, say, a part maker body and neck from scratch?
And, how much expertise for either option?
Posted on 9/5/18 at 4:55 pm to Ace Midnight
The most insightful advice I could offer is don't mix and match bodies, necks and pickguards if you don't have to ... get all three from the same source. It is worth the few extra $$$ to make it happen. Use all Warmoth, or all Mighty Mite, or all Musikraft, or Allparts, or MIM Fender, or all MIJ or MIA Fender for that matter. Manufacturers will swear their stuff matches other makers' stuff perfectly but it's rarely the case. Granted, I consider a half-millimeter variance a mismatch, but it's still a good rule of thumb to avoid introducing mild wood work and shaping to make your parts come together ... particularly if you aren't tooled or simply aren't adept at mild wood work and/or shaping haha. And even if you are good at mating stuff together, there will always be/seen evidence stuff was modded and mated. Even pro and clean finesse retrofits are still retrofits.
Posted on 9/5/18 at 7:38 pm to TheFretShack
quote:
Granted, I consider a half-millimeter variance a mismatch,
Well on something as critical as a neck, a half-mm can be pretty important.
Posted on 9/5/18 at 10:30 pm to Ace Midnight
quote:
You're married to the idea of an American Professional neck from Fender?
I do love the feel of that neck. I have a am pro tele and strat and I like the slightly chunkier neck, plus the taller frets. I just didn't want to purchase it and run into issues installing/setti g it up.
Posted on 9/7/18 at 6:21 am to Easye921
I would get something with a compound radius, not the American Pro neck. Of course I’m bitter, my 2017 American Pro tele has some high frets (verified with a fret rocker) that cause fretting out when bending. With a careful set up I’m able to almost get whole step bends everywhere. I’m just dealing with until it’s ready for a level and dress. Don’t want to pay for it now or attempt to spot level.
Posted on 9/7/18 at 7:43 am to AthensRattler
Probably 75 percent of the guys who come to see me swearing they need fretwork actually need a proper truss rod adjustment. You likely need a set-up tweak with the proper tools/gauges taking measurements because it's unusual to need fretwork on a one-year old US series Fender guitar unless you gig the guitar six nights a week and play it like a drum kit.
If your guitar is not passing a fret rocker, it sounds like you have the neck set perfectly straight (not ideal) or set with a very slight backbow in the neck. Loosen your truss rod slightly - cheap, unobtrusive and completely reversible if you make things worse.
Keep in mind too, a 9.5 vintage radius mixed with factory assembly line fretwork won't allow the modern liquid low action and extended bending/vibrato ranges you commonly see on bolts by Suhr, TAG, JT, ESP's TH, the custom shop/boutique list goes on.
2017 American Professional series set-up specs ... read and apply this if you haven't already
And NEVER, NEVER do a "spot" level or any fret work on one or just a few frets - you work on a bed of frets collectively for superior results. If you do not, there is a very high likelihood you will need a guy like me to undo what you did. It also goes without saying, you need proper tooling, gauges and jigs - if you improvise or wing the task, your finished fret bed will reveal just that.
If your guitar is not passing a fret rocker, it sounds like you have the neck set perfectly straight (not ideal) or set with a very slight backbow in the neck. Loosen your truss rod slightly - cheap, unobtrusive and completely reversible if you make things worse.
Keep in mind too, a 9.5 vintage radius mixed with factory assembly line fretwork won't allow the modern liquid low action and extended bending/vibrato ranges you commonly see on bolts by Suhr, TAG, JT, ESP's TH, the custom shop/boutique list goes on.
2017 American Professional series set-up specs ... read and apply this if you haven't already
And NEVER, NEVER do a "spot" level or any fret work on one or just a few frets - you work on a bed of frets collectively for superior results. If you do not, there is a very high likelihood you will need a guy like me to undo what you did. It also goes without saying, you need proper tooling, gauges and jigs - if you improvise or wing the task, your finished fret bed will reveal just that.
Posted on 9/8/18 at 2:01 am to TheFretShack
I have it at 0.009” relief right now. I’m pretty capable with set ups and have feeler gauges, radius gauges, string height gauges etc. I’ve rescued many guitars from unnecessary fret work by giving them a proper set up. I agree 100% when something goes out of whack, it’s usually the truss rod.
It fails the fret rocker test miserably. 15 and 17 are high. I feel that I’m a victim of the factory assembled fret work + 9.5” radius fretboard combo.
I have a radius block and everything I need to do the level of the whole board. I’ve watched Dave’s world of fun stuff do some spot leveling, but maybe he doesn’t know what he is doing. I’m sure as hell going to experiment on some $35 craigslist guitars before I tackle my tele.
It fails the fret rocker test miserably. 15 and 17 are high. I feel that I’m a victim of the factory assembled fret work + 9.5” radius fretboard combo.
I have a radius block and everything I need to do the level of the whole board. I’ve watched Dave’s world of fun stuff do some spot leveling, but maybe he doesn’t know what he is doing. I’m sure as hell going to experiment on some $35 craigslist guitars before I tackle my tele.
Posted on 9/8/18 at 3:39 am to AthensRattler
Man that sucks. My tele was flawless from the factory. In fact, it's the only guitar I have that hasn't had a set up.
Posted on 9/8/18 at 6:48 am to Easye921
Its a bummer, but I still love the guitar.
In regards to the neck carve, I love it when I get used to it. If I’ve been playing my American special strat, it takes me a while to like the am Pro tele neck again. The strats is thinner and the tele feels like a baseball bat when I first pick it up. Goes both ways though because the strat feels like an Ibanez after some tele time.
In regards to the neck carve, I love it when I get used to it. If I’ve been playing my American special strat, it takes me a while to like the am Pro tele neck again. The strats is thinner and the tele feels like a baseball bat when I first pick it up. Goes both ways though because the strat feels like an Ibanez after some tele time.
Posted on 9/8/18 at 12:15 pm to AthensRattler
Yeah I'm the same way with my mim strat neck. I guess I like a fat neck, because I just cant bond with the modern c profile.
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