Oaxaca Trip

I'll be watching this thread. Oaxaca is on my list mainly for the mezcal but I've heard it's a really nice area with great food.

We went last year and absolutely loved it.

Markets are, of course, famous in Oaxaca.. and for good reason. They can be somewhat intimidating, especially if you don't speak Spanish. We actually hired someone for a market tour off of Locals (I think that's the app... my wife handled it). It was a good thing to do on first arriving, as she gave us a lot of information and sort of broke the intimidation factor down. We did something similar on our visit to Nice/Liguria at the END of the trip, and wished we'd done it at the beginning.

Here are various market display type pics:
Tamales:


The famous chapulines as well as "worm salt" for mezcal:


The makings for sopa de guias:


Moles and other stuff:


Chiles:


Copal (an incense):


Various herbs both medicinal and culinary:


Peppers:


Oaxacan cheese with squash blossom:


Oranges:


Tomato season had just started:


Weaving baskets:


These pictures don't even hint at the insanity of the markets... I didn't show meats, clothing, leather, mezcal, etc.. etc.. so so much.

Some general trip information:

We ended up flying direct from DFW into Oaxaca City. Really easy flight. Oaxaca airport is very small. Customs was a breeze coming into Mexico.

Last time, my wife and I got a hotel in Centro. This time, since we had bikes, we rented an AirBNB. It was a little further from the "action" of downtown, but we didn't really mind that. We had about a 15 minute walk to get downtown, but we really enjoy walking... so no big deal.

Water is a problem in Oaxaca (as in all of Mexico). Our hosts supplied us with 5 gallon blue jugs, and they refilled them as much as we wanted. We still all ended up with varying levels of stomach issues. But nothing that was too crazy. We didn't shy away from any street foods or juices or aguas. Everything I've read says that Oaxacans are also very conscious of the water issues and susceptible as well, so they're careful in food prep.

Everything felt very safe while we were there, as it did last time. Due to the recent murders out on the coast, we did quite a bit more research on safety precautions than we had previously. You still read occasional stories of people getting robbed and such, but we never felt unsafe anywhere. That being said, we were rarely out past 10pm.

Centro has plentiful places where you can arrange excursions to mezcal producers or other cultural tours. In our trips we've done weaving, mezcal, and Hierve el Agua. All are good trips. We've never gone to Puerto Escondido or the beach areas, opting to stay fairly close to town.

Food is great, obviously. Don't shy away from anything, as it's all pretty good, even random holes in the wall. Lots of good cafes and finding coffee isn't a problem. Espresso tonics are very popular and are usually flavored with a little orange as well. We drank a lot of these, especially at cafes that didn't have some sort of nut milk (most of my family is lactose intolerant).

There are lots of great museums. Botanical gardens are cool. Oaxacan history museum in the square is great. Textile museum is cool. This is a really great place to go if you enjoy wandering around, seeing things, and chilling in cafes and restaurants. If you're wanting action packed adventure (like Costa Rica), this probably isn't the place.

They also have a big wrestling event that I've heard is great, but we didn't get to attend it. We did do a lot of mountain biking with Trans Sierra Norte. There is all levels available, but I will say that the riding is legit. Some great backcountry with fantastic, steep descents.

Food is famous in Oaxaca for good reason.

Our absolute favorite meal by far was at Levadura de Olla, which has a Michelin Star... and for good reason. The entire experience was exquisite from the wait staff to a kitchen staff member presenting us with a handwritten note of appreciation at the end of the evening. The dishes are thoughtful and delicious and the atmosphere unpretentious but refined.

A sort of altar as you enter:


Guacamole with grasshoppers
Made with avocado, jalapeño chili, lime juice, coriander, and salt. Served with blue corn tostadas and grasshoppers.


Tomato season! First harvest of tomatoes. As Arkansans, we know our tomatoes. These were fantastic.
Assortment of Oaxacan native tomatoes, served on beetroot puree. Topped with fruit vinaigrette and quelites.


A bean soup that was ladled into the tamales:
Traditional dish from the Sierra Norte, commonly served for pre-wedding lunch. Boiled beans with avocado leaves and a tamale rolled in layers with bean paste.


Requesón tamal, squash blossom, mole negro and coloradito mole sauce
Tamal made with mixed corn masa, requesón, butter and spices. Served with mole negro, coloradito, dried cheese, coriander, and squash blossom.


Red pipián with thick corn kernels, pitiona, chayote and chayocamote (chayote plant root)
Made from two pumpkin seeds; chompa and támala cucurbita squash. Accompanied with nixtamalized corn grains and served with the root of the chayote plant. Pipián can be considered a type of mole.


Wood-fired station for fresh tortillas and the soup:


Did I mention it was Tomato season? An altar of tomatoes