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re: F4U Corsair Models (Photo Heavy)
Posted on 12/21/23 at 10:47 am to Darth_Vader
Posted on 12/21/23 at 10:47 am to Darth_Vader
Darth, I used to build plastic models when I was a kid (many years ago). I don't remember the brand names of the models I built, but they weren't great. At the time, I used Testor's plastic cement in tube to build them and then Testor's paint. I did both brush painting and a little spray painting. Every now and then I consider picking it up again. What are the recommended makes of plastic models? What type of glue/cement? Any other suggestions for someone who's considering getting back into the game?
Posted on 12/21/23 at 11:15 am to NotYourDaddy
quote:
Darth, I used to build plastic models when I was a kid (many years ago). I don't remember the brand names of the models I built, but they weren't great. At the time, I used Testor's plastic cement in tube to build them and then Testor's paint. I did both brush painting and a little spray painting. Every now and then I consider picking it up again. What are the recommended makes of plastic models? What type of glue/cement? Any other suggestions for someone who's considering getting back into the game?
As far as kits go, you can’t go wrong with Tamiya. The fit is always great, instructions clear, and they have a wide variety of subjects to build. Right now I’m working on the Tamiya 1:48 scale Dewoitine D.250 WWII era French single seat fighter…
Airfix kits an are good also if you buy the newer ones. I also build a lot of Italeri, Academy, Dragon, and Trumpeter kits.
When it comes to glue, Testors in the tube is way out dated. I use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. It’s a liquid cement and comes with a fine tip brush that makes application easy. Just remember a little goes a long way.
I personally use Tamiya acrylics almost exclusively. My method is to mix 2:1 with X-20A thinner and brush on multiple thin, even coats.
Posted on 12/21/23 at 2:53 pm to NotYourDaddy
You’ll need more than just thin Tamiya.
Thin Tamiya will absolutely cloud the clear parts from some kits. Thin Tamiya also will melt plastic.
Always test a small scrap of clear part with the glue you want to use. Even scuff up the scrap part and let the glue in there to see if it will cloud the clarity of the part.
Tamiya thin does clear out some minor scratches in clear parts caused by minor abrasion. Be careful here.
It all depends on the manufacturer of the clear part on how the part will react to the glue.
If the scrap glass gets foggy with Tamiya, switch to Testors clear parts cement.
Always have CA glue. Use it in major wing/fuselage attachments. Also use it to fill gaps between those seams. Let harden. Sand out.
Last but not least, Revell Contacta has the best parts of Tamiya thin and CA. The applicators needle gives it the nod in tight spots.
Some of the smaller items I couldn’t live without are tweezers, file and a sharp exacto.
Thin Tamiya will absolutely cloud the clear parts from some kits. Thin Tamiya also will melt plastic.
Always test a small scrap of clear part with the glue you want to use. Even scuff up the scrap part and let the glue in there to see if it will cloud the clarity of the part.
Tamiya thin does clear out some minor scratches in clear parts caused by minor abrasion. Be careful here.
It all depends on the manufacturer of the clear part on how the part will react to the glue.
If the scrap glass gets foggy with Tamiya, switch to Testors clear parts cement.
Always have CA glue. Use it in major wing/fuselage attachments. Also use it to fill gaps between those seams. Let harden. Sand out.
Last but not least, Revell Contacta has the best parts of Tamiya thin and CA. The applicators needle gives it the nod in tight spots.
Some of the smaller items I couldn’t live without are tweezers, file and a sharp exacto.
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