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re: Replacing cedar board siding with Hardie Board

Posted on 6/13/22 at 3:52 pm to
Posted by poochie
Houma, la
Member since Apr 2007
6435 posts
Posted on 6/13/22 at 3:52 pm to
If your hardie boards rattle when you tap them, you have a terrible install. AND, if you’re that worried about it, hardie recommends face nailing in locations where required by code due to excessive wind (or I guess if you just want to) In this instance you would face nail only through two layers.

Hardie absolutely does not void the warranty if you caulk the bottom seam. Before I typed this I went back and read the specs that I downloaded when I built my house (I installed the hardie and flashed the shite out of every location I could). The only locations they specifically call to not caulk is the bottom row where trapped water would have to be flashed out (so above any windows, penetrations, or the bottom most run). But this should be a general no brainer. This is directly from the 2018 hz10 hardie plank lap siding spec(the latest spec offered on the James hardie website).

The only thing official I can find from hardie on caulking the horizontal joints is a 2014 bulletin about flashing that says it’s not recommended and could cause moisture buildup if you have an issue above. Nothing about warranty the being voided and again, no verbiage in the 2018 spec.

This post was edited on 6/13/22 at 3:57 pm
Posted by calcotron
Member since Nov 2007
8337 posts
Posted on 6/13/22 at 7:55 pm to
I agree with poochie, you had a crap installation if that was happening. I had a crap installation 2 houses ago - there is no way the company who did it (previous owner, not us) had done it before. All kinds of gaps on the sides, and seeing light come through along the diagonal of the big gable side. Didn't do proper flashing anywhere. So glad we move before really having to deal with it. In the house before that, it was newly built with hardy and everything was tight, no issues at all. You just have to find people who know how to install it properly.
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