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1
Posted on 9/9/12 at 5:49 pm to windriver
coil but depending how old it is do yourself a favor and buy a Stihl
Posted on 9/9/12 at 6:40 pm to mtcheral
Mick
1) NEVER buy gas anymore with ethanol. That will destroy your carburator.
2) Empty your gas tank again and if your blower is old - 10 years or older , replace your hoses, and your filter that is in your tank. cost is around $6.00 for both.
3) an empty your bowl completely!
if this doesnt work, Do NOT replace with a kit!!! You can find a brand new replacement carburator on Ebay for $40.00 and it takes only 3 minutes to do. Theres only 2 screws holding it on. I just did this with my echo PB 400E !!! Good luck buddy
1) NEVER buy gas anymore with ethanol. That will destroy your carburator.
2) Empty your gas tank again and if your blower is old - 10 years or older , replace your hoses, and your filter that is in your tank. cost is around $6.00 for both.
3) an empty your bowl completely!
if this doesnt work, Do NOT replace with a kit!!! You can find a brand new replacement carburator on Ebay for $40.00 and it takes only 3 minutes to do. Theres only 2 screws holding it on. I just did this with my echo PB 400E !!! Good luck buddy
Posted on 9/9/12 at 6:48 pm to melkiper
quote:
Flux capacitor
This is most likely the problem I've been a master mechanic for 15 years now and when customers bring in their small engine devices, like your blower, it is always a problem with their flux capacitor. Not a cheap fix, however; will cost you a couple G's. But with a new flux capacitor it should run very smoothly for at least a couple more weeks.
Posted on 9/9/12 at 8:09 pm to The Mick
Mick, did you get it started yet ?? if not i can maybe help
Posted on 9/10/12 at 7:42 am to FISH N TIGER
Sorry I didnt see your post last night. I watched a youtube vid and completely took apart the carburetor and sprayed it all out with WD (I didnt have carb cleaner) hopefully I didnt kill it. Sure enough first pull fricker started right up, but did not stay running then wouldnt start again. I guess it ran off the WD I sprayed but isnt getting its fuel as I suspected. I also could not get the primer bulb to draw any fuel. I will mess with the fuel lines tonight and see what happens.
Any other suggestions are definitely welcomed.. this has become a personal challenge for me now.
Any other suggestions are definitely welcomed.. this has become a personal challenge for me now.
Posted on 9/10/12 at 7:49 am to The Mick
Posted on 9/10/12 at 7:50 am to melkiper
quote:
NEVER buy gas anymore with ethanol
Good luck with this...in my area you can't find real gas anymore.
Posted on 9/10/12 at 7:54 am to The Mick
serious note,sounds like you have either a busted diaphragm in the carb which is really like a fuel pump for the motor or a cracked fuel line somewhere where you can't see.
The damn adjustment process on any 2 stroke engine is fricking mind boggling.
I mean,seriously.
Yeah,frick that shite.
The damn adjustment process on any 2 stroke engine is fricking mind boggling.
I mean,seriously.
quote:
1. Have the fuel tank about half full of fuel (almost said diesel, LOL) and the fuel must have the proper gas/oil mix ratio. The recommendations I've read from small engine repair books say the best adjustment is achieved with a tank half full of fuel. 2. The gas/oil mix ratio may affect how it runs, so make sure it's mixed exactly to spec (50:1, 40:1, 32:1, etc.). Also the gasoline used in the mix should be fresh 87 octane gas. Also make sure the air filter is clean/serviced. 3. Run the engine at WOT for a while to fully warm it to operating temp. Outdoor weather should be normal summer temperature and humidity. 4. Make sure the trimmer's string is at the proper length so it will be running with a load on the engine when running at WOT. 5. While running at WOT, adjust the main mixture screw to richen up the mixture. Turning CCW richens the mixture and CW will lean the mixture. Explore the adjustment range and find the "sweet spot" setting where it runs good and pefectly smooth at full RPM at WOT and without "4-stroking". 4-stroking is where the engine fires on every other compression stroke and does it with a distinct pop sound heard in the exhaust. 6. Richen the mixture about 1/8th of a turn from this sweet spot setting to set the mixture slightly on the rich side. This will help it accelerate smoothly from idle without hesitation and while under a heavy load. With no load on the engine, it is normal to run slightly rough (4-stroking) at WOT at this setting. You'll notice it will smooth out (begins fully 2-stroking) a soon as you start loading the engine. You'll have to experiment a little to find the best setting. In general the ideal setting will end up being slightly on the rich side of where it runs perfectly smooth at WOT with no load. Once properly adjusted, it may tend to 4-stroke at WOT with no load and will run smoothly without bogging down or hesitating while under load. 7. After setting the high speed adjustment, run the engine at idle and play with the low speed adjustment. This adjusts the mixture at idle and low speeds just above idle. If it won't stay running at idle, you'll need to give it a little throttle to keep the RPMs up just enough to keep it running while you play with the adjustment. As you get the adjustment close to where it needs to be, you'll notice it will stay running more easily at idle and will be able to idle on its own without having to give it any throttle. This assumes the idle speed hasn't been set too low to begin with. 8. Test acceleration from idle to WOT by quickly snapping the throttle to WOT and do this several times. It should accelerate smoothly and quickly without hesitation or stumbling during each snap acceleration. You may find you need to touch up the high speed mixture adjustment slightly in order to get it perfect. 9. Touch up the idle speed if needed by adjusting the stop screw for the throttle plate. 10. Go out in the yard and whack some weeds and tall grass with it and see how it performs.
Yeah,frick that shite.
Posted on 9/10/12 at 7:59 am to meauxjeaux2
quote:The diapharam(s) looked fine when I opened up the carb. I think its a fuel line issue or fuel filter b/c the primer bulb wasnt drawing any fuel at all. Am I thinking about that correctly?
serious note,sounds like you have either a busted diaphragm in the carb which is really like a fuel pump for the motor or a cracked fuel line somewhere where you can't see.
This post was edited on 9/10/12 at 8:00 am
Posted on 9/10/12 at 8:02 am to meauxjeaux2
Every time i had this problem with my Echo weedeater or Stihl blower, I would empty out the fuel, pour in a couple of ounces of lacquer thinner, crank it til it started, run it for a few seconds, then pour out the remaining lacquer thinner and put the fuel/oil mix back in. Always worked. The lacquer thinner gets rid of all the gunk in the fuel lines and carb, until they get gummed up again. Rinse and repeat. Worked for years.
Posted on 9/10/12 at 8:05 am to The Mick
quote:Could be a pinhole in the primer bulb itself. This has happened to me a bunch with 2 stroke lawn equipment
fuel filter b/c the primer bulb wasnt drawing any fuel at all.
Posted on 9/10/12 at 8:07 am to meauxjeaux2
quote:
Could be a pinhole in the primer bulb itself. This has happened to me a bunch with 2 stroke lawn equipment
That's happened to a blower and a couple of times to the weedeater that I can remember here.
Posted on 9/10/12 at 8:33 am to meauxjeaux2
quote:Ill try anything...
lacquer thinner
quote:It was full of fuel before I took apart the carb. Once I put the carb back on it wouldnt draw any fuel
pinhole in the primer bulb
I must have fricked up somethingPosted on 9/10/12 at 8:36 am to The Mick
Go get a 4 stroke whee-whacka. It'll make you a happy man.
Posted on 9/10/12 at 8:57 am to meauxjeaux2
Im sure I will eventually get a new one but like I said, this is a challenge now. I will beat this fricker if its the last thing I do.
Posted on 9/10/12 at 9:00 am to The Mick
does it have the Zama carb?
Posted on 9/10/12 at 9:08 am to meauxjeaux2
Yes Zama
Posted on 9/10/12 at 9:14 am to meauxjeaux2
quote:What do you think could be causing the fuel blockage? I opened the carb all the way up and sprayed it all out and all the diaphrams and everything looked good, there was no gunk on anythihng. Im not sure a rebuild would be the answer (although Im definitely a rookie at this)
Needs a rebuild kit. Cheap and pretty easy to do. Just Google ZAMA CARB REBUILD YOUTUBE.
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