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Started By
Message
Reinforcing transom on cheap Jon
Posted on 5/23/19 at 1:59 pm
Posted on 5/23/19 at 1:59 pm
Suggestions welcomed.
The issue:
For small river fishing I have a cheap (Wal-Marks edition) 12' Jon boat rated for a 3 HP. I am using an old Johnson 9.9 on it. Motors are restricted to 9.9 in this part of the river. After one outing the transom was in bad shape. You have to bump over logs pretty frequently to get anywhere.
I am not sure the gauge of metal across the back but its extremely thin and reinforced on the inside with a 1 x 4 strip just under the lip at the top.
After my only outing the metal across the transom was creasing about half way down from the repeated motor kick ups and subsequent pounding back down.
Does this sound like a viable solution:
Replace the interior 1 x 4" brace with 5/4 boards (thickest board that will fit under existing rolled metal lip) and then center brace from the rear seat well to the transom.
Then because the transom metal is so thin there is still concern repeated banging could create a hole causing a leak. I was thinking painting the metal with something (maybe flex Seal) and covering the entire exterior of the transom with 3/4" marine grade plywood. Then secure with several bolts going all the way through to the inside and seal around the bolts.
Will end up drowning if I do this?
The issue:
For small river fishing I have a cheap (Wal-Marks edition) 12' Jon boat rated for a 3 HP. I am using an old Johnson 9.9 on it. Motors are restricted to 9.9 in this part of the river. After one outing the transom was in bad shape. You have to bump over logs pretty frequently to get anywhere.
I am not sure the gauge of metal across the back but its extremely thin and reinforced on the inside with a 1 x 4 strip just under the lip at the top.
After my only outing the metal across the transom was creasing about half way down from the repeated motor kick ups and subsequent pounding back down.
Does this sound like a viable solution:
Replace the interior 1 x 4" brace with 5/4 boards (thickest board that will fit under existing rolled metal lip) and then center brace from the rear seat well to the transom.
Then because the transom metal is so thin there is still concern repeated banging could create a hole causing a leak. I was thinking painting the metal with something (maybe flex Seal) and covering the entire exterior of the transom with 3/4" marine grade plywood. Then secure with several bolts going all the way through to the inside and seal around the bolts.
Will end up drowning if I do this?
Posted on 5/23/19 at 2:05 pm to Animal
quote:
Will end up drowning if I do this?
I feel like a good rule of thumb for boating practices or modifications is, if you have to ask this question, it's probably a bad idea.
Posted on 5/23/19 at 2:08 pm to Animal
Do you have pics?
I put some aluminum (road sign would work) on the outside of mine instead of wood. It helped a lot and wasn't expensive. I built the transom out of two layers of 5/8" exterior (untreated) plywood glued together with waterproof wood glue, sealed with 4 or 5 coats of spar, and then painted. It has held up really well. This is an old ouichita 1436.
how far down does the wood extend? mine is almost to the bottom of the boat. I used 3m 5200 to seal the 1/4"/20 stainless bolts going through. I run a 25 hp on it with no issues. I had a 9.5 on it before and the metal would flex because the wood didn't go low enough.
I put some aluminum (road sign would work) on the outside of mine instead of wood. It helped a lot and wasn't expensive. I built the transom out of two layers of 5/8" exterior (untreated) plywood glued together with waterproof wood glue, sealed with 4 or 5 coats of spar, and then painted. It has held up really well. This is an old ouichita 1436.
quote:
After my only outing the metal across the transom was creasing about half way down from the repeated motor kick ups and subsequent pounding back down.
how far down does the wood extend? mine is almost to the bottom of the boat. I used 3m 5200 to seal the 1/4"/20 stainless bolts going through. I run a 25 hp on it with no issues. I had a 9.5 on it before and the metal would flex because the wood didn't go low enough.
Posted on 5/23/19 at 2:09 pm to Animal
quote:
Will end up drowning if I do this?
Nah, it's not really rocketscience to reinforce a transom as long as you seal it well with marine 5200 and don't use exterior plywood treated with copper.
If I were in your position I would flush mount the thickest piece of marine grade plywood that will fit inside the lip, bolt/washer through and seal. A center brace may help but likely will be more of a pain in the arse to attach and likely won't be necessary as long as you use thick enough ply.
Tinboats in a great resource for ideas.
Posted on 5/23/19 at 2:10 pm to Tiguar
quote:
I feel like a good rule of thumb for boating practices or modifications is, if you have to ask this question, it's probably a bad idea.
Yeah, I was hoping someone would say "hey, dumbass, try doing XYZ."
I am trying to tap into that coon-arse engineering vein:)
Posted on 5/23/19 at 2:24 pm to celltech1981
quote:
Do you have pics?
Unfortunately, I don't.
quote:
how far down does the wood extend?
It is literally a single 1 x 4
I know...it is amazing it held up for one trip!
Thx for the tips!
Posted on 5/23/19 at 2:25 pm to TheDrunkenTigah
quote:
Tinboats in a great resource for ideas.
Good stuff! Thanks.
Posted on 5/23/19 at 2:50 pm to Animal
Build a flow-tation device around motor or strap enough life jackets to motor. Eventually that transom is going to give way and the flow-tation will save the motor.
Posted on 5/23/19 at 2:52 pm to Animal
quote:
It is literally a single 1 x 4
I know...it is amazing it held up for one trip!
found this with a quick google search. you could trim around the gusset and have it go down even further. I kept my bolts above the waterline as much as possible.
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