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re: Permanently installed LED "Christmas" lights.

Posted on 12/17/23 at 9:29 pm to
Posted by ApisMellifera
SWLA
Member since Apr 2023
276 posts
Posted on 12/17/23 at 9:29 pm to
Yeah, my napkin math came out to be 425. I bought 500 to be safe.

My box will be at pixel 210 so I’ll have to run power/data to the beginning anyways. It’s over the garage so it should be easy.

On the other end, I have the option of putting a 2nd psu if I really want to. While building the house, I at least had the foresight so put outlets in the eaves for Christmas lights so that’s how I plan to power everything. These outlets just so happen to be at #210 and the very end of my run. At this point I’m just trying to figure out if it’s easier to run power to the very end or put the 2nd psu there.
Posted by Hopeful Doc
Member since Sep 2010
15035 posts
Posted on 12/18/23 at 7:22 am to
quote:

At this point I’m just trying to figure out if it’s easier to run power to the very end or put the 2nd psu there.



I remember reading a weird thing about running an additional ground to tie each PSU together, so it seems like it would be easier to piggyback a single pair of wires along the whole run, because you’ll have to run an additional ground from PSU to PSU anyway, so it works out to basically the same for you I think (though you could run a single wire instead of a pair, but that’s a dumb thing to have lying around anyway).
Posted by Lonnie Utah
Utah!
Member since Jul 2012
24112 posts
Posted on 12/18/23 at 7:42 am to
quote:

On the other end, I have the option of putting a 2nd psu if I really want to


Totally doable to run two power supplies, but you have to connect the low voltage grounds if you have all the pixels in one continuous string.

Personally, RUNNING the power injection wires wasn't difficult. I ran some in my eves/soffit, some in the aluminum LED channels and some in the gutters. The hard part was soldering the injection the wire to the individual LEDs. If a run of LEDS was over 5 meters in length, found the 18 gauge wire I used to run PI too thick to solder directly to the pads on the LED strips. So I had to step down to 20 or 22 AWG for a few inches and then solder those to the strips. This step down led to having more injection points as I was getting off color LED's with the 5v strips I used. I prototyped everything on the ground before I put them up to get the injection points dialed. And of course the longest run of my system runs over the highest point of my house.

After the hindsight of putting in security camera all over my house, if I were to do it again, I'd run one 16 or 18 gauge (I used 3 strand 18 AWG) power injection wire directly from the power supply to the far end(s) of the system in the attic and other strategic (hidden) points along the way. That would have saved me trying to run large power injection wire in the aluminum channels. Quiet often, I had to separate the positive and negative wires from the jacket and data wire to get them to fit. 5 or 10' of 22 awg in the channels wouldn't be nearly as hard as what I ended up doing. Trying to "hammer" down the plastic diffusers onto the channels 15-20' in the air wasn't a great experience for someone who's not comfortable at height. But I have easy access to my attic and for the most part can move around up their pretty easily. Oh, and 1 more thing. If you do go the attic route. ALWAYS leave a line to fish wire/string(s) in place hidden in the eves so if you have to rework something, it's a much easier task.

I'm no expert on any of this, I can just tell you my mistakes/experiences to help other people avoid them.
Good luck!

ETA: Here's the wire I used. 100ft.18AWG Low Voltage LED Cable 3 Conductor White Sleeve in-Wall Speaker Wire UL Class 2 Certified

And here are the water proof connectors I'll be be installing this summer. 4 Pin Waterproof Male Female Connector Cable RGB The wire gauge is pretty small on these, but I'm more interested in preserving the data signal with these.
This post was edited on 12/18/23 at 7:51 am
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