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re: What oil & oil filter do you use?
Posted on 10/15/13 at 9:28 am to bapple
Posted on 10/15/13 at 9:28 am to bapple
quote:
What!? I've never heard of a PC DA polisher breaking. My buddy who details professionally has one that he has used for about 8 years. Give them a call and I bet they'll replace it. I also use a PC DA polisher.
Oh no, it didn't break! I just used it for the first time. It's a 2010 Challenger SRT8 in B5 blue. Paint wasn't bad to begin with, I just wanted to refine it. I washed with meguiars gold class, clay barred, dried, used the PC + orange pad and poor boys polish with sealant, then topped that wit a coat of Four Stars UPP. My problem is I don't have a garage where I can apply these sealants and let them cure for hours on end, so I have to used products that can be applied in sunlight (though I keep this to a minimum always) and can be topped almost immediately. I know I sacrifice some durability, but it is what it is. The car is my dads anyway and will probably be getting sold soon...next project is my truck. Which will be a bitch
Posted on 10/15/13 at 9:53 am to jordan21210
quote:
. It's a 2010 Challenger SRT8 in B5 blue. Paint wasn't bad to begin with, I just wanted to refine it.
I remember doing a 2500 Ram a long time ago and the paint was fairly hard. You probably need a stronger cutting compound.
Go to Autozone and get Mequair's M105. It's in a tan bottle and is about $30. It's worth the money. I use it to polish headlights and bare metal bumpers as well. Works like a charm.
quote:
My problem is I don't have a garage where I can apply these sealants and let them cure for hours on end, so I have to used products that can be applied in sunlight
Sealants and waxes shouldn't need that long to cure. Just do a finger test. Swipe your finger across the waxed paint quickly. If the wax smears, it needs more time. If it all flakes off, it's ready to be removed.
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