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Started By
Message
Calling Outboard mechanics....
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:08 am
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:08 am
I know, on a roll with another thread. I love this board and have spent since its beginning lurking without post.
I have a 1979 Mercury 115 6cyl that is firing only 1 plug. I am trying to find a troubleshooting manual, but the only one I could find had to be ordered. We are trying to get this boat in the water by next weekend. If anyone has the smarts, give me some options besides sell it or dump it. I will let you know what I have done up to this point if you give me options to fix it.
I have a 1979 Mercury 115 6cyl that is firing only 1 plug. I am trying to find a troubleshooting manual, but the only one I could find had to be ordered. We are trying to get this boat in the water by next weekend. If anyone has the smarts, give me some options besides sell it or dump it. I will let you know what I have done up to this point if you give me options to fix it.
2
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:12 am to Sarge
quote:
I will let you know what I have done up to this point if you give me options to fix it.
Why don't we work it the other way around Sarge...why don't you tell us what you have done so we don't waste your time with things you have already tried.
The ol Tall Skinny 115....one of Merc's best motors ever made.
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:14 am to TexasTiger
I have changed the plugs, plug wires, flushed out the gas tank with clean gas. Motor was left out for a while when I got it. Never been in salt water, but poorly taken care of. I know its a beast and cant wait to get it back in the water.
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:20 am to TexasTiger
quote:
TexasTiger
I have followed this as well.
quote:
If more than one cylinder is not firing: Replace BOTH switch boxes unless you can pin the problem down to the
trigger. Replacing just one switch box can result in damage to the engine if the remaining switch box on the engine
has a problem in the bias circuit.
Always check the bias circuit: Disconnect the White/Black jumper between the switch boxes and check the
resistance from the White/Black terminal on each switch box to engine ground. You should read 12-15,000 ohms on
stock switch boxes, and 9,000-9,800 ohms on racing switch boxes. MAKE SURE THE READING IS THE SAME
ON BOTH SWITCH BOXES! Any problem with the bias circuit and BOTH switch boxes must be replaced as a set.
No Fire on 1, 3, 5 or 2, 4, 6: Swap the stator leads from one switch box to the other. If the problem moves, replace
the stator. If the problem remains on the same cylinders, replace the switch box. If the stator is replaced and the
problem is still present, try another flywheel.
No Fire on One Cylinder: This can be caused by a defective blocking diode in the other switch box. Disconnect
the White/Black jumper between the switch boxes and retest. If all cylinders are now firing, replace the switch box
that was originally firing all three cylinders. To verify this condition, swap the trigger leads on the switch box that
was originally firing all three cylinders. If the misfire moves to another cylinder, the switch box is bad.
Out of the CDI Troubleshooting guide.
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:20 am to Sarge
Have you tested the Power Pack...
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:25 am to Sarge
quote:
I have followed this as well.
And what did you come up with..after running those tests.
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:27 am to TexasTiger
quote:
And what did you come up with..after running those tests.
After purchasing a new stator, the same problem is still present. How would this effect the flywheel?
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:33 am to Sarge
quote:
How would this effect the flywheel
I assume the fly wheel is turning while you are bumping it..correct.
Also I know this is the main issue now but once this gets resolved be ready to do some other work to the boat as well...Carb...probably rebuild because the seals are probably rotted...as well as lower unit oil change and impeller change.
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:37 am to TexasTiger
quote:
I assume the fly wheel is turning while you are bumping it..correct.
yes. I dont know why I would have to replace the flywheel, that is of course if it wasnt spinning.
quote:
Also I know this is the main issue now but once this gets resolved be ready to do some other work to the boat as well...Carb...probably rebuild because the seals are probably rotted...as well as lower unit oil change and impeller change.
I have a gas leak as well. I like to work on motorcycles, but the outboard motors are a pain. Once something is fixed, something else pops up. Great motor though, well worth it.
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:39 am to Sarge
This may help you out in your trouble shooting..
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:43 am to TexasTiger
You are the man.
Back to work.
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:51 am to Sarge
Call Freddy Breaux in Henderson. He is the master of all outboard mechanics.
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:52 am to Sarge
*notes to self, just pay a fricking mechanic*
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:53 am to ccomeaux
I live in Tenn for about the next 2 years. I will look him up though. I know most businesses dont give info over the phone cause it takes away from business. Thanks bro.
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:54 am to Chad504boy
quote:
notes to self, just pay a fricking mechanic*
Note to self: Thru training, you learn how to fix things yourself. When you screw up, you learn, no matter how costly. You might learn something. Bring something productive to the thread or quit stalking.
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:57 am to Sarge
quote:
Note to self: Thru training, you learn how to fix things yourself. When you screw up, you learn, no matter how costly. You might learn something. Bring something productive to the thread or quit stalking.
I'm stalking thread to see if I can learn things myself bro. I'm damn curious to see if you'll have this up and running without a hitch in 10 days.
Posted on 5/18/11 at 10:59 am to Chad504boy
quote:
I'm stalking thread to see if I can learn things myself bro. I'm damn curious to see if you'll have this up and running without a hitch in 10 days.
Touche'
There will be hitches, especially during the test run. Good thing we got the pontoon boat out on the same day for a hauler.
quote:
Texas Tiger
Im looking for volt amp values to test switch boxes, rectifier and stator. I doubt all 5 coils are bad.
Posted on 5/18/11 at 12:12 pm to Sarge
You should read 12-15,000 ohms on
stock switch boxes, and 9,000-9,800 ohms on racing switch boxes. MAKE SURE THE READING IS THE SAME
ON BOTH SWITCH BOXES!
Taken from your post above. Also is there a way to check the coils...and see if you have any major variances that would help identify a problem.
stock switch boxes, and 9,000-9,800 ohms on racing switch boxes. MAKE SURE THE READING IS THE SAME
ON BOTH SWITCH BOXES!
Taken from your post above. Also is there a way to check the coils...and see if you have any major variances that would help identify a problem.
Posted on 5/18/11 at 1:13 pm to TexasTiger
Once again, you da man.
BTW, where are you finding this? Or are you just badass?
BTW, where are you finding this? Or are you just badass?
Posted on 5/18/11 at 1:19 pm to Sarge
you check with any boat stores near you on locating a manual? I know I was at west marine a few weeks ago and they had several motor manuals that dated back a good bit.
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