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re: Homebrewing: In-Process Thread
Posted on 11/7/14 at 9:11 am to BMoney
Posted on 11/7/14 at 9:11 am to BMoney
quote:
Slowing both runnings down seemed to really help. I know I've gradually gotten to the point that I was draining too fast just to speed up brew day.
Gotcha yeah. I dump the first batch real quick then start heating it up while slowly dumping the next batch. Almost at a boil by the time I finish.
Posted on 11/7/14 at 9:53 am to s14suspense
quote:
Gotcha yeah. I dump the first batch real quick then start heating it up while slowly dumping the next batch. Almost at a boil by the time I finish.
Hmmmm...maybe that's something I should try. I've always collected the full amount before heating it for the boil.
Posted on 11/7/14 at 10:39 am to BMoney
Interesting topic
How about we discuss tips and ideas like this that can shave time off a brew day?
I know sometimes it's nice and relaxing to spend the day brewing, but sometimes you need to get it done and get on with it.
How about we discuss tips and ideas like this that can shave time off a brew day?
I know sometimes it's nice and relaxing to spend the day brewing, but sometimes you need to get it done and get on with it.
Posted on 11/7/14 at 10:47 am to LoneStarTiger
If I am in a rush I cut down on the mash schedule and try to speed up sparging a little. I will bust out the iodine to check for starch conversion in the mash after 30 mins or so if need be.
I will also cut back on the cooling and stick a plastic carboy of warm wort in the chill chest and pitch later that evening or the next morning.
I will also cut back on the cooling and stick a plastic carboy of warm wort in the chill chest and pitch later that evening or the next morning.
Posted on 11/7/14 at 10:50 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
How about we discuss tips and ideas like this that can shave time off a brew day?
Start heating strike water immediately and then worry about getting everything else out and setup.
If you're set on a 1 hour mash be ready to vorlauff and drain to kettle at the 1 hour mark and have second batch sparge heated and off to the side to dump in as soon as first batch is drained to kettle that's being heated that comes to a boil as soon as you're done slowly sparging your second batch.
Clean everything up as much as possible during boil.
Chill as quickly as possible.
I can probably be done and cleaned up in about 4 hours total.
Wanting to get some sort of pump setup to whirlpool the chilling wort. Keeping that wort moving around a good immersion chiller really makes it go faster.
This post was edited on 11/7/14 at 10:52 am
Posted on 11/7/14 at 11:35 am to s14suspense
quote:
Start heating strike water immediately and then worry about getting everything else out and setup.
This is a big thing. I will actually heat up as much water as I can so that I do not have to worry about doing it during the mash. I then move to weighing out grain, milling, brew stand setup, etc.
Posted on 11/7/14 at 12:15 pm to Fratastic423
quote:
I then move to weighing out grain, milling,
I don't think this is something that I envy at all. It's kind of nice to click a few buttons on the interwebs and swing by after work to pick up my grains etc. all ready for me.
Posted on 11/7/14 at 12:26 pm to s14suspense
quote:
I don't think this is something that I envy at all. It's kind of nice to click a few buttons on the interwebs and swing by after work to pick up my grains etc. all ready for me.
Ditto. I'm more than happy to let LA Homebrew do it for me. And the cost of a mill isn't making me change my outlook.
Posted on 11/7/14 at 1:15 pm to BMoney
For me it was the ability to buy in bulk and then brew on a whim if I want. I doubt that I have saved enough money for the mill, but I probably have come close with how much I was brewing once I bought the mill.
Posted on 11/7/14 at 1:18 pm to Fratastic423
quote:
For me it was the ability to buy in bulk and then brew on a whim if I want. I doubt that I have saved enough money for the mill, but I probably have come close with how much I was brewing once I bought the mill.
I definitely see the advantages. Maybe I haven't got there yet personally and don't brew enough. >5 gal batches and brewing a few times a month I can see it.
Posted on 11/7/14 at 4:40 pm to s14suspense
If I had the space then I'd keep bulk grain handy.
As for time savers, y'all know my stance on chilling. Don't. Saves time, water, and labor. Bonus real wort starters.
As for time savers, y'all know my stance on chilling. Don't. Saves time, water, and labor. Bonus real wort starters.
Posted on 11/8/14 at 2:05 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:........I haven't done an hour mash in a couple of years...........20 minutes is plenty for conversion. My favorite time saver....not really a time saver but a time break this shite up.....mash on one day.....let mash water sit overnight.......it needs to sit at 68 or lower......I put mine in my temp controlled fridge........boil the next day. A 6 hour day is tough but breaking it up to a 2 hour mash day......after all is done.......and then a 4 hour brew day........90 minute boil which takes 30 minutes to get to boil and then a 45 minute cool down.....transfer to carboy.....clean up..... Is much easier. The opposite of this are those who do the no cool down......or wait til the next day to pitch. I haven't tried that. I am afraid of lacto infecting things......although I have done some Belgians where I am pretty sure lacto got to the wort but they turned out ok......maybe just my acceptance of a bit of sour......anyway.....the cooling down can be a time sucker. I just bought a plate chiller but haven't used it yet. I am hoping is cuts a half hour from the cool down.......so I don't know what I just rambled about.....
How about we discuss tips and ideas like this that can shave time off a brew day?
Posted on 11/8/14 at 5:21 am to Zappas Stache
quote:
My favorite time saver....not really a time saver but a time break this shite up.....mash on one day.....let mash water sit overnight.
I'm all about this. I've taken a whole week to brew a batch. I typically don't boil more than 45 min unless I over shoot my volumes and it takes longer to boil down. I never pitch on boil day, just cut the flame and stash the pot some place safe.
Posted on 11/8/14 at 8:18 am to Zappas Stache
quote:
20 minutes is plenty for conversion
Depends. If I'm mashing below 150, I have to go an hour to 90 minutes to give the alpha amylase more time since it's not working in it's preferred range.
Posted on 11/10/14 at 1:58 pm to BottomlandBrew
Hey guys, does it matter what kid of stock pot you boil in? I'm trying to decide if aluminum or stainless would be best. And also what size?
Looking to get started soon and getting in ad much info as I can. Thanks
Looking to get started soon and getting in ad much info as I can. Thanks
Posted on 11/10/14 at 2:18 pm to Chatagnier
40 qt aluminum would be perfect for brewing a batch of beer.
LINK
Something like that.
LINK
Something like that.
This post was edited on 11/10/14 at 2:20 pm
Posted on 11/10/14 at 2:26 pm to Chatagnier
quote:
does it matter what kid of stock pot you boil in?
Not really. I use stainless, but know people who brew excellent beer that use Al.
There are very few cons associated with SS pots aside from the cost.
Al stock pots are cheaper, but less durable, common brewing cleaners can break down the oxide layer on the pot and allegedly lead off flavors... there is also that whole Alzheimer thing with Al cookware.
quote:
And also what size?
I recommend at least 8-10 gallon pot if you're brewing 5 gallon batches and a minimum of 15 gallon kettle if you plan on brewing 10 gallon batches.
Posted on 11/11/14 at 2:32 pm to LSUGrad00
I think I'm finally retiring my auto-siphon and moving to a sterile siphon starter.
I've read a lot of good things about MoreBeer's recently, so I ran by LA Homebrew at lunch and picked up all the parts I needed to throw one together.
I made a slight change to the MoreBeer design using flare fitting on the gas in so I can use my CO2 tank to push the beer from carboy to carboy/keg.
Also picked up ingredients I needed for a Baltic Porter. Hope to knock that one out tomorrow.
I've read a lot of good things about MoreBeer's recently, so I ran by LA Homebrew at lunch and picked up all the parts I needed to throw one together.
I made a slight change to the MoreBeer design using flare fitting on the gas in so I can use my CO2 tank to push the beer from carboy to carboy/keg.
Also picked up ingredients I needed for a Baltic Porter. Hope to knock that one out tomorrow.
Posted on 11/11/14 at 2:35 pm to LSUGrad00
You have a gas connect on the end of the siphon to make a completely closed transfer?
wondering how well that works.
wondering how well that works.
Posted on 11/11/14 at 2:39 pm to s14suspense
yeah, one of these on the carboy hood to connect to the regulator...
and then a liquid keg connect on the end of the siphon.
Hoping I can open the gas release on the keg and put a little pressure on the carboy side and have an o2 free transfer.
ETA: I'm thinking it will either work great OR I'll blow up my carboy.
and then a liquid keg connect on the end of the siphon.
Hoping I can open the gas release on the keg and put a little pressure on the carboy side and have an o2 free transfer.
ETA: I'm thinking it will either work great OR I'll blow up my carboy.
This post was edited on 11/11/14 at 2:41 pm
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