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Laying Pavers for a parking strip help
Posted on 8/5/24 at 11:55 am
Posted on 8/5/24 at 11:55 am
Anyone ever worked on leveling out land to lay pavers that can give me any tips to speed it up? Or is this one of those things that is just going to have to be a tedious process. I'm adding a parking spot for our oldest, and had about 60 old 16 inch pavers from a previous patio. I was thinking two rows of them either 9 or 10 blocks long to give me 12 feet or 13'4" of length to park on. I've measured the wheelbase and 12 feet would cover it, but 13'4" would give a little more wiggle room. Saturday I removed the fence and gate to get access to the backyard, and Sunday I started trying to get it ready to lay the pavers.
So far I got my big tiller out and busted up the uneven dirt, shoveled a bunch out to get it to roughly level, but I'm at the point where I need to pack it flat. I bought one of those steel tamping tools at Home Depot, but maybe there's a better way than literally pounding the ground for hours to get it almost perfectly level. I'll go ahead and admit my dummy mistake, I stupidly assumed the existing concrete pad outside the basement door would be relatively straight compared to the side of the house, but it was not. Considering you have to build a frame to pour concrete, and that whatever you used for framing should be square or rectangular in this case. I was going to not lay it directly alongside that concrete, but leave a little space before laying the first row. Similar to this pic on the right, having space on each side, and plant some grass in the middle.
So I used a brick laid against the existing concrete to get my first paver in place, and it was square to the concrete. Then I was down in the dirt, laying one to the right, then one to the left, lots of packing, adding sand, using a level and making sure the corners and edge were level to the brick next to it. I finally stood up after I had about 4 or 5 of them done to look at it, and realized it was angling in slightly towards the house, rather than being perfectly even. So I got disgusted at myself, stopped for the day, and figured I would regroup and try again later. So since I'll be somewhat starting over on the laying process, anything I can do to speed up the leveling process? I'm not against renting a compactor if it will save my back and some time.
We're eventually going to add a fence back, and with whatever pavers I have left create a patio at the bottom of the deck stairs inside the fence. So it would probably be ideal if I could rent a compactor for a day or so and flatten it all at once. Anyone ever used one of those, and how easy/hard is it?
So far I got my big tiller out and busted up the uneven dirt, shoveled a bunch out to get it to roughly level, but I'm at the point where I need to pack it flat. I bought one of those steel tamping tools at Home Depot, but maybe there's a better way than literally pounding the ground for hours to get it almost perfectly level. I'll go ahead and admit my dummy mistake, I stupidly assumed the existing concrete pad outside the basement door would be relatively straight compared to the side of the house, but it was not. Considering you have to build a frame to pour concrete, and that whatever you used for framing should be square or rectangular in this case. I was going to not lay it directly alongside that concrete, but leave a little space before laying the first row. Similar to this pic on the right, having space on each side, and plant some grass in the middle.
So I used a brick laid against the existing concrete to get my first paver in place, and it was square to the concrete. Then I was down in the dirt, laying one to the right, then one to the left, lots of packing, adding sand, using a level and making sure the corners and edge were level to the brick next to it. I finally stood up after I had about 4 or 5 of them done to look at it, and realized it was angling in slightly towards the house, rather than being perfectly even. So I got disgusted at myself, stopped for the day, and figured I would regroup and try again later. So since I'll be somewhat starting over on the laying process, anything I can do to speed up the leveling process? I'm not against renting a compactor if it will save my back and some time.
We're eventually going to add a fence back, and with whatever pavers I have left create a patio at the bottom of the deck stairs inside the fence. So it would probably be ideal if I could rent a compactor for a day or so and flatten it all at once. Anyone ever used one of those, and how easy/hard is it?
1
Posted on 8/5/24 at 1:30 pm to TU Rob
I've had small areas abutting my slab done at the rate of a project every two years. I book a favorite landscaper for Jan or Feb when he's happy to get the work for his crew. He installed 8" deep crushed limestone base. That depth past topsoil down to well packed clay subsoil. For a 3' wide walk made of used brick he compacted the base with a hand tamper and the bricks with a hard rubber mallet. For a 5' wide paver walk he used his power vibrator for both. Both results seem the same to me. His decision was based on how many workers he had in his crew at the time.
I don't know what your Birmingham subsoil is like, a thick gravel bed may not be needed unless frost heave is an issue.
I assume the example picks showing a crumbling asphalt drive over gravel aren't your actual situation.
Lay your pavers using a design with seams offset rather than inline to minimize horizontal shifting under load. I like running bond which has minimal cutting required. Before laying each line lay a taught guide string square to whatever reference you want like the slab edge. Avoid squaring only from the pavers themselves... errors accumulate fast.
I've seen but never used a plastic template that goes on top of the base. You just drop the pavers into place. I don't know if templates are available for 16" pavers. Templates or not, finish edges with a solid metal edging. Get it from landscape or irrigation supplier. More substantial than thin stuff carried at big boxes. The edging has to survive mowers and edgers.
Keep the future in mind before doing the heavy work. Put direct-bury wiring, conduit, watering systems, etc. in place first ( wish I'd thought of it).
Last... a warning. How are your shoulders? I had a DIY - inclined friend install a paver patio quickly followed by rotator cup surgery. Let your son tamp and wrestle the pavers.
I don't know what your Birmingham subsoil is like, a thick gravel bed may not be needed unless frost heave is an issue.
I assume the example picks showing a crumbling asphalt drive over gravel aren't your actual situation.
Lay your pavers using a design with seams offset rather than inline to minimize horizontal shifting under load. I like running bond which has minimal cutting required. Before laying each line lay a taught guide string square to whatever reference you want like the slab edge. Avoid squaring only from the pavers themselves... errors accumulate fast.
I've seen but never used a plastic template that goes on top of the base. You just drop the pavers into place. I don't know if templates are available for 16" pavers. Templates or not, finish edges with a solid metal edging. Get it from landscape or irrigation supplier. More substantial than thin stuff carried at big boxes. The edging has to survive mowers and edgers.
Keep the future in mind before doing the heavy work. Put direct-bury wiring, conduit, watering systems, etc. in place first ( wish I'd thought of it).
Last... a warning. How are your shoulders? I had a DIY - inclined friend install a paver patio quickly followed by rotator cup surgery. Let your son tamp and wrestle the pavers.
Posted on 8/5/24 at 1:52 pm to Tree_Fall
Thanks for the reply. I'm sort of viewing this as temporary for now, and may transition to something more permanent before the next one is driving. Honestly, I'll probably be the one parking on it and let my daughter keep using the garage. I don't fully trust her driving skills just yet to let her drive around behind the house to park every time.
Yes, the pic is just an example, I have nothing but dirt/clay back there now, so the soil is rather thick, I just need to pack it down and lay pavers. If I were pouring a slab, I agree a gravel base would be necessary, but using metal edgers like you mentioned should keep it from shifting from me just backing into it.
As far as the shoulders, my sons are unfortunately too young to assist. Pavers aren't too heavy individually, it is more the tamping I want to speed up and not do any damage to myself. I should probably go pick up some day laborers, but I'm also DIY inclined.
Yes, the pic is just an example, I have nothing but dirt/clay back there now, so the soil is rather thick, I just need to pack it down and lay pavers. If I were pouring a slab, I agree a gravel base would be necessary, but using metal edgers like you mentioned should keep it from shifting from me just backing into it.
As far as the shoulders, my sons are unfortunately too young to assist. Pavers aren't too heavy individually, it is more the tamping I want to speed up and not do any damage to myself. I should probably go pick up some day laborers, but I'm also DIY inclined.
Posted on 8/5/24 at 3:17 pm to TU Rob
Sounds like you're going about things right... have fun.
One last matter that may not be Birmingham relevant... termite contract.
Down here in Baton Rouge most pest control companies which offer a repair warrantee have become extremely picky about landscape modifications which they claim void the warranty. I knew nothing about this, and my contractor never brought up the topic.
Since all my paver paths abut the slab they all would void my termite warrenty had not an unexpected benefit fallen my way. Terminix did a free retreament of long-standing contract holders in my neighborhood. That included drilling and injecting along the paver paths. Ask your inspector if a retreatment along the new path is needed... get answer in writing if possible.
One last matter that may not be Birmingham relevant... termite contract.
Down here in Baton Rouge most pest control companies which offer a repair warrantee have become extremely picky about landscape modifications which they claim void the warranty. I knew nothing about this, and my contractor never brought up the topic.
Since all my paver paths abut the slab they all would void my termite warrenty had not an unexpected benefit fallen my way. Terminix did a free retreament of long-standing contract holders in my neighborhood. That included drilling and injecting along the paver paths. Ask your inspector if a retreatment along the new path is needed... get answer in writing if possible.
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