So I screwed up, help me fix my paint disaster

Scrape off and use paintable caulk and be careful. Prep is 95% of the work.

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Just take a razor blade to it. That stuff comes off pretty easily, and once you get an edge up, you can grab it and "peel" it away while running the razor blade along the edge. Recaulk it, but keep a couple of damp paper towels handy and wipe away the excess with that to avoid getting your fingertips all gunky.

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this

I like to have a bucket with a few inches of hot water in it and several rags to wipe with. I find the hot water gets the caulk off my fingers easier.

Fly TU Rob in (and his family) and pay him to re-do it.

You'll get a good job and it'll cost so much you won't forget the lesson.

Peel the shite off only choice. You now know latex caulk must be applied then smoothed down with moist finger or rag. Congrats on the sex.

Tips on caulking:

1. Do not cut the caulking tube tip off very far back. Unless you are trying to fill a really big crack or hole, the tip only need to be cut off large enough to push the puncture device from your caulking gun through it. The smaller the hole the easier it is to control caulking and there will be less excess to wipe off.
2. When caulking a wide area use the back of a spoon to smooth out the caulk. Wet the spoon first.
3. When filling holes in sheet rock, use spackle. I prefer the type that is pink and turns white when it is dry. It is better to make a small indentation with a hammer where filling nail and screw holes.
4. When filling holes in painted woodwork use painter's putty. On stained wood, and paneling use stainable wood filler.

The shallow indent creates more surface area for the spackle/putty to stick too and allows it to not pop out as easily. It also allows you to sand and feather the edges. Flat surfaces in a home are not really flat they only present the illusion of being flat to the naked eye.


FWIW I prefer a dent that is concave and no just a flat hammer head dent. So, I use the back of the handle of a craftsman screwdriver and a short swift strike. You can use a rounded head hammer too but not the typical drywall hatchet to achieve the same result.


Unlike a previous poster I do not like to use the pink spackle stuff as it dries too light in density and is not as durable as normal drywall mud.

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Unlike a previous poster I do not like to use the pink spackle stuff as it dries too light in density and is not as durable as normal drywall mud.

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I prefer drywall compound as opposed to spackle as well. I should have mentioned when filling a few small holes or areas. My preference in drywall compound is the USG lightweight compound. IMHO it's easier to use.

I am printing out this whole thread.

I've always sucked at caulking, there are some great tips in here.

The absolute best advice when caulking.


When you are done applying caulk to a an area immediately release the pressure on the drive bar of the caulk gun. This keeps it from continuing to push out more caulk making an unholy mess.


For most caulk guns it is a simple matter of pressing the release tab and pulling the drive bar back a cm or two. On some it requires rotating the drive bar 180 degrees and pulling it back a cm or two.