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Message
re: *Update* F150 battery dying overnight
Posted on 5/21/15 at 12:34 pm to sonoma8
Posted on 5/21/15 at 12:34 pm to sonoma8
If he is not eliminating the various modules that control everything, then he is wasting time and money. Also there are 2 fuse boxes, one under the hood and one inside the cab.
In my experience, only a dealer would have the specific technical information and access to the Ford technical hot line to diagnose it. Did you buy it new? Call the dealer and don't pay someone who hasn't fixed it.
In my experience, only a dealer would have the specific technical information and access to the Ford technical hot line to diagnose it. Did you buy it new? Call the dealer and don't pay someone who hasn't fixed it.
0
Posted on 5/21/15 at 12:37 pm to sonoma8
quote:guy sounds like a complete imbecile
Guy called and said he checked entire fuse box, unhooked alternator and fuel pump and something is still pulling power. He has no idea what it could be
quote:what area?
Was highly recommended by several people in the area.
Posted on 5/21/15 at 12:39 pm to meauxjeaux2
quote:
what area?
Marksville
ETA: truck was bought new in 2012
This post was edited on 5/21/15 at 12:41 pm
Posted on 5/21/15 at 12:49 pm to sonoma8
Ford might charge you $100 an hour but will usually find out whats wrong within the first hour. Their diagnostics equipment is the difference.
Posted on 5/21/15 at 12:53 pm to sonoma8
quote:
idea of what it could be??
Take the new battery out of it and haul the rest to the junk yard, problem solved.
Posted on 5/21/15 at 12:55 pm to offshoretrash
quote:because the #1 fullsized truck for years running is junk
Take the new battery out of it and haul the rest to the junk yard, problem solved.
Posted on 5/26/15 at 2:43 pm to sonoma8
Did he happen to volunteer that he checked the current draw at each fuse? I'd be interested to see if he checked the fuse powering the GEM module to see what its power draw was.
Posted on 5/26/15 at 3:27 pm to NASA_ISS_Tiger
Got mine figured out over the weekend. My amp was pulling 700mA from the battery. It would stay on....until I touched the remote terminal and ground terminal with a multimeter.
It was getting hot because of where I have it, so I ordered two little squirrel cage fans from parts express. Once I hooked one up, the amp would shut off every time I turned the truck off, like it is supposed to.
It is like the remote wire or amp had juice still, and hooking up the fans was enough to shut it off. Really weird, but it sounds like a bad capacitor or FET somewhere in the amp.
All is well now, and it only pulls 4mA when the truck is off. No more dead battery
It was getting hot because of where I have it, so I ordered two little squirrel cage fans from parts express. Once I hooked one up, the amp would shut off every time I turned the truck off, like it is supposed to.
It is like the remote wire or amp had juice still, and hooking up the fans was enough to shut it off. Really weird, but it sounds like a bad capacitor or FET somewhere in the amp.
All is well now, and it only pulls 4mA when the truck is off. No more dead battery
Posted on 5/26/15 at 4:37 pm to Hammertime
Damn. 700mA is almost 1 amp. That's a lot.
Yeah bad cap for sure....fan is bleeding it off. Cap allowed a solid state relay to stay closed probably...and then it stayed pulling power...
Yeah bad cap for sure....fan is bleeding it off. Cap allowed a solid state relay to stay closed probably...and then it stayed pulling power...
Posted on 5/26/15 at 6:14 pm to NASA_ISS_Tiger
I can audibly hear the fans/amp shut off now. I made the amp rack to fit behind the passenger rear seat of my truck, so there isn't much airspace at all. Stuck an 18 and a 32cfm fan on it because that's all I could fit on the side of the box (sides open). If someone doesn't know what they're listening to, they couldn't even hear it. Just a little extra piece of mind.
It was draining the battery in around 8hrs
It was draining the battery in around 8hrs
Posted on 5/27/15 at 10:19 am to Hammertime
quote:
Spankum
Dealership just called and said there is nothing pulling when truck is turned off. Cranking amps were good but it had a bad cell that was killing it in 2 days or so. Will be the last Everlast battery I buy.
This post was edited on 5/27/15 at 10:22 am
Posted on 5/27/15 at 10:24 am to sonoma8
quote:cranking amps was the very first thing that should have been tested. A bad cell will reveal itself during a load test. I would be pissed straight tha frick off at whoever at autozone load tested that battery and told you it was good.
Dealership just called and said there is nothing pulling when truck is turned off. Cranking amps were good but it had a bad cell that was killing it in 2 days or so. Will be the last Everlast battery I buy.
Posted on 5/27/15 at 10:30 am to meauxjeaux2
quote:
I would be pissed straight tha frick off at whoever at autozone load tested that battery and told you it was good.
That was the first thing due to being a 3 day old battery. The guy at Marler told me the cranking amps would show good as long as the battery was charged, but if it had a bad cell, it would not show until the battery started running low on juice. I did charge the battery the day before bringing it to Autozone. They are printing out some type of report that shows the bad cell and I'm heading straight back to autozone.Im no where near and automotive expert, but still pisses me off.
Posted on 5/27/15 at 10:55 am to sonoma8
a 12v lead acid battery is made up of 6 2 volt cells. One bad one would have showed the voltage to be around 10 volts
Posted on 2/24/17 at 9:04 am to sonoma8
Check the dash. My dash light will not cut off. Had a mechanic look at it, said look to see if the "P" on the dash is lit up orange. If not there is a short in the gearshift lever unit. I have ordered the parts I need and will update tomorrow if the part works.
Posted on 2/25/17 at 8:57 am to Nmelton141
I replaced the gear shift unit. Dash lights went off and so far battery is holding a charge, also the "P" on the dash came back. May be a fix to dead battery problems. I would look into that for sure
Posted on 2/26/17 at 5:40 pm to Nmelton141
I know nothing about trucks. But my husbands truck is a 2013 and he had what sounds like the same issue. Some dash lights were acting up and staying on even when truck was off. Battery seemed to drain overnight. First he bought a new battery then realized it had to do with a switch or some internal component inside the shifter. He ordered a new shifter and changed it out himself. Think it was around 300 from dealership.
Posted on 2/26/17 at 10:18 pm to fed1811
quote:
It'll be a pain in the arse but a tell tale way to find out what it is get a multimeter and unhook the positive battery and hook the meter to the bat. Should be low amps, roughly 35 miliamps max. If it's higher pop open the fuse box and start pulling them out until the amps dip down to that amount and that'll be what's draining you
this is actually a damn good idea...
Posted on 2/5/18 at 6:54 pm to sonoma8
Had the same problem. My passenger side power window motor was jacked, it’s still kinda worked. Window rolled up super slow. Turns out she was faulty and drawing power
Posted on 2/6/18 at 6:54 am to Price1a
Hell of a bump
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