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re: *Update* F150 battery dying overnight
Posted on 5/11/15 at 9:37 am to sonoma8
Posted on 5/11/15 at 9:37 am to sonoma8
quote:then i would suspect one of the control modules has gone bad. There are several in the vehicle. Seat control module,body control module,abs control module,cabin control module,a/c control module,lighting control module. Any one of these gets a short in them they will draw power and drain the battery pretty fast.
Yea just did that at autozone
0
Posted on 5/11/15 at 10:23 am to sonoma8
2000 didn't require programming. Part was $250...I did the work myself...after about a 1/2 quart of blood from bleeding so much...lots of sharp edges around the fuse panel to pull it out. It sucks, but do-able.
Posted on 5/11/15 at 11:27 am to sonoma8
had the same problem in my tundra some months back, put a new battery in and it would go dead overnight. An air condition relay went bad after changing it and the fan wouldn't shut off...couldn't hear it, easy fix though.
Posted on 5/11/15 at 12:09 pm to fed1811
or light under the hood? had a similar issue on a Chevy impala. turned out the light in the trunk was not shutting off when closed
Posted on 5/11/15 at 12:36 pm to fed1811
What kind of battery? Fords require a high amp to crank ... Don't buy interste batteries... Piece of crap m
Posted on 5/12/15 at 8:19 am to Barf
quote:I just did a quick jump with my charger and started the truck. Figured it might be a bad connection since it was a brand new battery. Turned it off, waited a minute, cranked again no problem. Did same thing 1 more time. Figured Bad connection, tightened everything down and went inside. Thought about it more and tried to crank again, dead. No corrosion that I seen. Took it to Glens in marksiville, he said more than likely a module went out since the battery tested fine and its dying so quick. Have to wait until monday to bring it. He said until then charge the battery every couple of days and disconnect terminals if not in use or it will continue to kill it. When I do that now, it sounds like the starter is having to take a second to turn over the engine. So could it be a short in the starter maybe??
it started up 3x after being on charger less than 2min. 30 min later, dead again
Posted on 5/12/15 at 9:17 am to sonoma8
quote:doubtfully
So could it be a short in the starter maybe??
Posted on 5/12/15 at 9:39 am to meauxjeaux2
True, starter wouldnt work at all or wouldnt turn off. Hell i dunno.
Posted on 5/12/15 at 10:13 am to sonoma8
you either have a bad module or a relay is stuck closed.
BTW,I was a Ford certified A tech for 10 years with specialty in Diagnostics and Driveability.
BTW,I was a Ford certified A tech for 10 years with specialty in Diagnostics and Driveability.
Posted on 5/12/15 at 11:20 am to sonoma8
When you disconnect the battery for a while, the whole system re-calibrates when you connect it back. So it will do some strange things when starting and driving for the first few miles. That is normal. As a previous poster said, a voltmeter can tell you how much draw (if any) you have and what circuit the draw is in. Good Luck.
Hey Meaujeaux, I spent 25 years consulting to dealership service departments, mostly in S. La. Did you work IN BR?
quote:
BTW,I was a Ford certified A tech for 10 years with specialty in Diagnostics and Driveability.
Hey Meaujeaux, I spent 25 years consulting to dealership service departments, mostly in S. La. Did you work IN BR?
This post was edited on 5/12/15 at 11:22 am
Posted on 5/12/15 at 12:04 pm to cajuncarguy
quote:yes. Robinson Bros. Lincoln Mercury
Did you work IN BR?
Posted on 5/12/15 at 12:26 pm to meauxjeaux2
Thanks meauxjeaux. How does one go about finding this out and where its located? Im guessing its got to be hooked to a computer to be found.
Posted on 5/12/15 at 2:09 pm to sonoma8
quote:you disable the circuits feeding the modules one at a time either by removing the fuse and corresponding relay or unplug each module individually. My money is on the interior module that controls the seats.They're usually mounted under the seats and are susceptible to moisture.But that's not a 100% guess by no means.And have a clamp around amperage meter on the battery wire. The amp draw will drop to almost nothing when the correct component is isolated.
How does one go about finding this out and where its located? Im guessing its got to be hooked to a computer to be found.
This post was edited on 5/12/15 at 2:12 pm
Posted on 5/12/15 at 2:52 pm to sonoma8
A few things to check...Does the park indicator light on the dash light up when you put it in park? If you have remote start, is that working? Also, are the dash lights completely turning off at night when you close the doors and lock the truck?
Posted on 5/13/15 at 12:49 pm to NASA_ISS_Tiger
this is a well known problem with some Ford trucks
Posted on 5/14/15 at 12:29 am to sonoma8
If You have on ohm meter go to fuse box kill the ignition turn everything off & then pull all fuses test each circuit if you find on that's idrawing amps strat chasing wire
Posted on 5/14/15 at 5:28 am to Cracker
Get your owners manual out and go to the fuse section and find the diode.
Could be a blown diode in your fuse box.
About $15-16 at the Ford dealership.
Or it could be a bad Smart Junction Box, which is located inside the cab on the passenger side behind the 'kick-panel'.
Get a very good mechanic to run a diagnostic on it. If it is the smart junction box, they run about $300-400 at the Ford dealership, and it will have to be reprogrammed.
Could be a blown diode in your fuse box.
About $15-16 at the Ford dealership.
Or it could be a bad Smart Junction Box, which is located inside the cab on the passenger side behind the 'kick-panel'.
Get a very good mechanic to run a diagnostic on it. If it is the smart junction box, they run about $300-400 at the Ford dealership, and it will have to be reprogrammed.
This post was edited on 5/14/15 at 5:32 am
Posted on 5/14/15 at 7:03 am to Reubaltaich
I think I have it narrowed down to 2 things. With the truck turned off, I Left the positive terminal connected to batt and barely touched the neg terminal w the negative cable and it throws a pretty good spark. Lights flash when i do that aswell. I know it should spark bc some things keep running ie. Clock, radio, etc but i dont think it should be pullin that much power. So its either that or when i leave the batt disconnected for 8hrs or so during work, the fuel pump loses its prime and it takes the starter a couple seconds to turn the engine over. Thats about all I can notice. Bringing it monday to shop, hope its something simple or im charging it up and trading it in.
Posted on 5/14/15 at 8:31 am to sonoma8
Let us know what it was/is please...inquiring minds want to know!
Posted on 5/21/15 at 12:20 pm to NASA_ISS_Tiger
Truck has been at the shop 4 days now. Guy called and said he checked entire fuse box, unhooked alternator and fuel pump and something is still pulling power. He has no idea what it could be. Was highly recommended by several people in the area. So now my delimma is:
trade truck in that has about 3yrs left on note and let somebody else frick with it or let the dealership bend me over for $100/hr and let them try and find it. No idea what to do at this point.
trade truck in that has about 3yrs left on note and let somebody else frick with it or let the dealership bend me over for $100/hr and let them try and find it. No idea what to do at this point.
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