re: Spring Weed Guide For Lawns

Label says visible results within three weeks...When is the last time you cut the lawn? Yields best results by not cutting 7 days before treatment, and not until 14 days after treatment.

Alright, I'm ready to attempt better lawning through chemistry this year.

I have a large yard in East Texas. I very little shade and relatively acidic sandy loam soil. I have a combination of Bermuda, Centipede, and St Augustine mixed lawn thanks to the previous owners. I do have a sprinkler system and generally mow twice weekly.

I also have various weeds and grasses growing into the lawn. I have seen all of the following in my lawn and have the most troubles with the bolded ones: Clover, Henbit, Yellow Woodsorrel, Prostrate Spurge, Nutsedge, Sandbur, Purselane, occasional Plantain and Dandelion, POA, Hairy Bittercress, Winter Buttercup, Crabgrass, Dalligrass, and what I think is Torpedo grass recently.


Some of these have also been identified in the flower beds but for the most part mechanical removal or glyophosphate painting application has sufficed there.






So, where do I start?
PH testing?
What chemicals and when?

quote:

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Anything much further will probably require you to choose which turf grass you want to keep, as Bermuda and Centipede/St Aug will require different application rates and fertilizer ratios to get the job done.

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I don't really have a preference, honestly.

The St Augustine is sensitive to so many chemicals it makes it difficult to care for. It also requires more water in the hot months. Then the speed at which it can create vertical biomass means more raking and bagging. I do think it is a prettier lawn though.


The Bermuda wont get as tall but will seed out pretty quickly if not mowed weekly. It is also much more invasive in the flower beds. It does feel better under your bare feet too. And seems to be more drought tolerant.


what would you suggest and why?

Later this week I'm gonna post some pics to make sure I identified my grasses correctly. Thanks for the advice.

bootlegger...Can you give us a primer on what we need to put down-and when-for pre-emergent? I know that once the yard goes into dormancy the pre-emergent will help prevent next year's weed's before they happen.

What should we use? When should we use it? What do you recommend?

Just FYI, I finally went after the nut sedge in my back yard. I'd going to do it in steps, because most of my back yard is inundated with the crap.

I use HI-YIELD brand nut sedge killer. I followed the instructions on the package, and DAMN that stuff works. It's a little cheaper than sedgehammer. A $10 pack treats 1000sq feet. Good stuff, I just wanted to pass on the info.

ETA: After killing all of the sedge in an area, I learned that I have Bermuda and St. Aug.

Boot, what do I need to put out now as a pre-emergent to keep clovers and other weeds out in the spring?

Great bump, because it is time to start prepping for the off season. The good thing is that these pre emergent herbicides are pretty much a "one and done" type ordeal...

Bayer Specticle FLO is one of the best out there right now for our warm season turf types we have in the south...Safe on Bermuda, Zoysia, buffalo, Bahia, St Augustine, and Centipede. It inhibits annual grasses, sedges, and broadleaf weeds. Depending on which grass you have, it is applied at 6-10 ounces per acre, and should be done before Thanksgiving.
*for optimum crabgrass control, a second application a month and a half after initial application is recommended

Simazine is another (and cheaper) pre emergent that yields great results preventing annual bluegrass, crabgrass, etc. but is not effective on clovers. Apply at 1-2 quarts per acre (I use 2 quarts, unless it is newly sprigged or sodded lawn)before Thanksgiving.


Concentrate on getting these pre emergent down to combat the annual bluegrass and crabgrass. Most broadleaf weeds like clover, spurge, lespedeza, etc. are easily handled in the spring with a Trimec or Speedzone product.

Any advice on that virginia buttonweed? I've been fighting it for a couple years now with no success.

TIA

You're the man, Boot!