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Message
Rebuilding Rancher 350 engine
Posted on 10/29/14 at 10:28 am
Posted on 10/29/14 at 10:28 am
My dad just called me and told me that his dumbfrick stepson blew up the engine in his four wheeler (04 TRX350 carbed). Evidently they dont like to run underwater, and the kid just figured that out at the age of 18.
Brought it to the shop, and they told him it needs a complete rebuild, which would cost a few thousand dollars. He is going to get a new one, but wants me to decide if I can rebuild the blown engine or not. It'll be mine if I can, but I haven't ever rebuilt an engine bigger than a 6.5hp lawnmower one. If I can't, he's just gonna dump it on CL for a few hundred dollars.
How hard is it?
Is it something I can figure out with Youtube videos, a Clymer manual, and a little woman's intuition?
Cost?
Time isn't a factor, because it isn't getting any more broken, and he will be buying another one ASAP.
Should I even try it, or would I be wasting my time (everything else on it is good)?
If I did it, where should I be buying the parts from?
I know there are two or three four wheeler repairmen on the board, so any input is appreciated
Edit: Pics at the bottom
Brought it to the shop, and they told him it needs a complete rebuild, which would cost a few thousand dollars. He is going to get a new one, but wants me to decide if I can rebuild the blown engine or not. It'll be mine if I can, but I haven't ever rebuilt an engine bigger than a 6.5hp lawnmower one. If I can't, he's just gonna dump it on CL for a few hundred dollars.
How hard is it?
Is it something I can figure out with Youtube videos, a Clymer manual, and a little woman's intuition?
Cost?
Time isn't a factor, because it isn't getting any more broken, and he will be buying another one ASAP.
Should I even try it, or would I be wasting my time (everything else on it is good)?
If I did it, where should I be buying the parts from?
I know there are two or three four wheeler repairmen on the board, so any input is appreciated
Edit: Pics at the bottom
This post was edited on 11/4/14 at 8:46 am
12
Posted on 10/29/14 at 10:41 am to Hammertime
I bet you can do it.
Posted on 10/29/14 at 10:48 am to Hammertime
Email me. I will get back with you with the info you are looking for
sapsonranchtc at gee male
sapsonranchtc at gee male
Posted on 10/29/14 at 10:53 am to Hammertime
you can probably figure it out, if not what do you have to lose?
a 2004 rancher with a blown engine that will cost a few thousand dollars to repair probably isn't worth much more than the parts you would still be able to sell off it.
a 2004 rancher with a blown engine that will cost a few thousand dollars to repair probably isn't worth much more than the parts you would still be able to sell off it.
Posted on 10/29/14 at 10:53 am to eng08
I can't remember, but aren't the transmission and engine in the same case? It is full-time 4wd if that makes any difference
Grease, I just got out of class, so I'll email you when I get home
Grease, I just got out of class, so I'll email you when I get home
Posted on 10/29/14 at 11:23 am to greasemonkey
YGM
Posted on 10/29/14 at 11:23 am to Hammertime
If the engine tried to compress water you may have a broken piston and/or heads at least. You may just want to pull the heads and have everything checked before deciding go/no go on the engine.
Posted on 10/29/14 at 12:33 pm to cajuncarguy
Yeah, I am not sure what the weak points are on this engine, and I haven't torn it apart, so I have no idea at this point. I'm assuming mechanics have seen hundreds of sunken ranchers over the years
Posted on 10/29/14 at 12:38 pm to Hammertime
sure you can when idiots suck water into an engine water will not compress so chances are he bent a rod maybe the crank you can prob get a new rod piston rings and a jug, prob just rebuild the head check make sure the crank is not bent.
could be just a sheared the flywheel key trying to start the engine full of water.
could be just a sheared the flywheel key trying to start the engine full of water.
Posted on 10/29/14 at 12:46 pm to Cracker
quote:
could be just a sheared the flywheel key trying to start the engine full of water
in my world the its always the most expensive break rather than cheapest. Every. Fricking. Time.
Posted on 10/29/14 at 12:53 pm to Hammertime
Is it smoking or locked up? Knocking maybe?
Either way the best course to repair would be to tear it completely down, split the cases, and access the damage. Personally I'd replace the entire crank assembly, crank bearings, and any other little bearings/seals while it's torn down. Assuming the cylinder and head didn't receieve any damage I'd get a .50mm piston/rings(Wiseco kit is ~$150), have a machine shop bore the cylinder within the proper tolerances(specs should be in a repair manual). Also I'd highly recommend replacing the oil cooler. You can easily clean the cases of any contaminants once they're split but there possibly could be small particles trapped in the oil cooler. Replace it, that way you avoid all your hard work and $$ going to shite in few rides.
All in all, parts plus machine shop labor($50-$100 usually) you're looking at around $800-$1000 in cost.
Either way the best course to repair would be to tear it completely down, split the cases, and access the damage. Personally I'd replace the entire crank assembly, crank bearings, and any other little bearings/seals while it's torn down. Assuming the cylinder and head didn't receieve any damage I'd get a .50mm piston/rings(Wiseco kit is ~$150), have a machine shop bore the cylinder within the proper tolerances(specs should be in a repair manual). Also I'd highly recommend replacing the oil cooler. You can easily clean the cases of any contaminants once they're split but there possibly could be small particles trapped in the oil cooler. Replace it, that way you avoid all your hard work and $$ going to shite in few rides.
All in all, parts plus machine shop labor($50-$100 usually) you're looking at around $800-$1000 in cost.
Posted on 10/29/14 at 12:58 pm to Cracker
quote:
sure you can when idiots suck water into an engine water will not compress so chances are he bent a rod maybe the crank you can prob get a new rod piston rings and a jug, prob just rebuild the head check make sure the crank is not bent. could be just a sheared the flywheel key trying to start the engine full of water.
This. But if you rebuild, go with a true shop manual. Aftermarket manuals blow when it comes to 4wheelers.
Posted on 10/29/14 at 2:22 pm to Cracker
I haven't seen it yet, so I'm going on second hand info. From what it sounds like, he took it to the shop and they gave a quick diagnosis of it without tearing it completely down. I'm sure they gave him a complete rebuild estimate and worst case scenario though
He just said the fricking kid brought it back at 9pm Sunday night and said the battery was dead because he got it "stuck". After a little bit of prodding, he finally admitted to sinking it and not being able to start it after. I'd bet my last dollar that he didn't pull the plugs and drain it before cranking it over again
He just said the fricking kid brought it back at 9pm Sunday night and said the battery was dead because he got it "stuck". After a little bit of prodding, he finally admitted to sinking it and not being able to start it after. I'd bet my last dollar that he didn't pull the plugs and drain it before cranking it over again
Posted on 10/30/14 at 5:00 am to Hammertime
I'll email you by Saturday.
Posted on 10/30/14 at 7:16 am to greasemonkey
Alright thanks. I spoke with my dad yesterday afternoon, and it is actually at the shop now. They only have the top end off, but said the piston and cylinder wall have a big gouge taken out of them, and there is a lot of play in them. I just told him to get them to write down their diagnosis and put it back together
Posted on 10/30/14 at 7:54 am to Hammertime
quote:
and put it back together
If you intend on tearing it right back down this really isn't necessary. They'll probably want to charge you some extra labor $$ to reassemble.
Posted on 10/30/14 at 8:21 am to YOURADHERE
I'm not working on something that someone already took apart. Nothing worse than getting handed a bag full of parts and having no idea where they came from
Posted on 10/30/14 at 8:32 am to Hammertime
True, atleast you'll know it's all there and where it belongs.
Posted on 10/30/14 at 7:55 pm to YOURADHERE
When I was 14 I rebuilt the engine on my old XR-75. The only thing I couldn't do myself was to bring it to Boco's to have it bored out properly and order the correct oversized parts.
It ain't rocket science.
LC
It ain't rocket science.
LC
This post was edited on 10/30/14 at 7:56 pm
Posted on 11/3/14 at 3:26 pm to Hammertime
So I picked up the four wheeler yesterday from my dad's house. I was surprised to see that everything looked to be in pretty good condition. Nothing was broken or cracked. Only noticeable problem was a lot of carbon buildup on the valves and plug. I looked over the rest of the four wheeler, and while dirty, everything is intact.
Here is the write-up from the shop on things that need to be replaced.
The oil cooler has a bunch of mud on it, but does not need to be replaced. As I said earlier, the top end was dirty, but in good shape. Piston was fine, all rings intact, and cylinder was fine. Cylinder still has factory cross-hatching on the walls in most spots.
I don't know how to check the bottom end for slack in the crank. I can grab the rod, but IMHO, it moves just like I think it should. Should I just get the heads and cylinder redone just in case, and any idea on cost?
Here is the write-up from the shop on things that need to be replaced.
The oil cooler has a bunch of mud on it, but does not need to be replaced. As I said earlier, the top end was dirty, but in good shape. Piston was fine, all rings intact, and cylinder was fine. Cylinder still has factory cross-hatching on the walls in most spots.
I don't know how to check the bottom end for slack in the crank. I can grab the rod, but IMHO, it moves just like I think it should. Should I just get the heads and cylinder redone just in case, and any idea on cost?
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