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Started By
Message
re: Rebuilding Rancher 350 engine
Posted on 11/4/14 at 8:56 am to Hammertime
Posted on 11/4/14 at 8:56 am to Hammertime
Oil cooler that was "broken"
Don't know what that scratch mark is, but I cannot feel it when I rub my finger on the surface, so my guess is that it got scratched by something in the box of parts.
This is just dirt from being in the box
Rods are perfectly straight
Well, I haven't torn into the insides of the engine, but like I said, I couldn't feel any slack in the crank that was obviously odd to me personally, but I am not a four wheeler mechanic. Is there any way to check, or should I just go ahead and start throwing money at it?
I also just lightly brushed everything off with a shop rag, no cleaning involved because I didn't want to get rid of the evidence
Don't know what that scratch mark is, but I cannot feel it when I rub my finger on the surface, so my guess is that it got scratched by something in the box of parts.
This is just dirt from being in the box
Rods are perfectly straight
Well, I haven't torn into the insides of the engine, but like I said, I couldn't feel any slack in the crank that was obviously odd to me personally, but I am not a four wheeler mechanic. Is there any way to check, or should I just go ahead and start throwing money at it?
I also just lightly brushed everything off with a shop rag, no cleaning involved because I didn't want to get rid of the evidence
0
Posted on 4/1/15 at 11:14 am to Hammertime
Alright, so I finally have the engine out and was ready to get started on it. I messed around with it a little bit. Drained the remaining oil and didn't find any water in it. The only thing I can see that MIGHT be wrong with it is this little bit of side-to-side slack of the rod on the crank. It does not have any up and down play. It just seems like the rod would just need an extra very small shim to get it to tighten up, but I don't know how much play is built into the engine.
The crank also has zero play in it. Cylinder has good cross hatching and piston/rings fit tightly in there. I cleaned up the top end, and everything looks good there also.
At this point, I am thinking the Honda place was just trying to get my dad to buy a new four wheeler. I cannot find anything majorly wrong with it. Should I just put this mf'er back together and run it? Tearing the engine down would be a big job for me, and probably turn out to be expensive. Is there anything else I should be looking for?
Here is a pic of the small amount of play in the rod/crank
The crank also has zero play in it. Cylinder has good cross hatching and piston/rings fit tightly in there. I cleaned up the top end, and everything looks good there also.
At this point, I am thinking the Honda place was just trying to get my dad to buy a new four wheeler. I cannot find anything majorly wrong with it. Should I just put this mf'er back together and run it? Tearing the engine down would be a big job for me, and probably turn out to be expensive. Is there anything else I should be looking for?
Here is a pic of the small amount of play in the rod/crank
Posted on 4/1/15 at 11:19 am to Hammertime
I think it gets back to what you are willing to spend vs what a used atv or a new engine will cost
if it was me and it was free, I'd clean it up good, put it back together and run it. If it grenades you are no worse off than when you started and a rebuilt engine is pretty easy to come by
if it was me and it was free, I'd clean it up good, put it back together and run it. If it grenades you are no worse off than when you started and a rebuilt engine is pretty easy to come by
Posted on 4/1/15 at 11:21 am to Hammertime
Put it back together and see if it burns some gasoline. Chances are the shop was lying to your pops.
What shop did he bring it to?
What shop did he bring it to?
Posted on 4/1/15 at 11:22 am to cgrand
From everything I know about small and large engines, I can't figure anything wrong with the thing other than being dirty or maybe the electronics got wet
Posted on 4/1/15 at 11:31 am to Hammertime
the only engine I've rebuilt was a 27hp Briggs. the push rods kept bending so I took it all down, sent the heads to a machine shop, etc.
2 months later it nuked and I bought a new one for less than I'd already spent. slap it back together and see if it will run. If it does, you're riding on house money
2 months later it nuked and I bought a new one for less than I'd already spent. slap it back together and see if it will run. If it does, you're riding on house money
Posted on 4/1/15 at 11:31 am to KingRanch
Honda of Covington
My dad said it started and ran for a second at his house, then died. I am guessing that was because of a wet air filter. He just told me that the tech told him the top end was fricked and the bottom end was knocking loudly. Heads were dirty as frick. Could barely see the damn spark plug there was so much carbon on it. Valves look seated well and arent bent, rods are straight, etc.
I guess I'll just throw this thing back together. If it is fricked up, I will at least be able to hear what's wrong
My dad said it started and ran for a second at his house, then died. I am guessing that was because of a wet air filter. He just told me that the tech told him the top end was fricked and the bottom end was knocking loudly. Heads were dirty as frick. Could barely see the damn spark plug there was so much carbon on it. Valves look seated well and arent bent, rods are straight, etc.
I guess I'll just throw this thing back together. If it is fricked up, I will at least be able to hear what's wrong
Posted on 4/1/15 at 11:32 am to KingRanch
quote:This.
Put it back together and see if it burns some gasoline. Chances are the shop was lying to your pops.
It sounds to me like it was hydrolocked. I've fixed/help fixed several hydrolocked engines.
Posted on 4/1/15 at 11:35 am to Hammertime
Is that the old Garrett Honda?
When they were Garrett Honda they sucked badly.
When they were Garrett Honda they sucked badly.
Posted on 4/1/15 at 12:20 pm to KingRanch
Yup. They did price match Brookhaven on his new rancher though
Posted on 4/1/15 at 12:27 pm to Hammertime
You can probably figure it out but if you're in the middle of it and suddenly can't do it, you're in real jam then.
Second, trans are not like engines.
Third, you may want to go to the link below & save your head from exploding
Jasper Engines
Second, trans are not like engines.
Third, you may want to go to the link below & save your head from exploding
Jasper Engines
Posted on 4/1/15 at 2:52 pm to Wtodd
It would've definitely been nice to know how everything came apart because I guessed when putting it back together
I hooked it up to an old truck battery and cranked it over for a bit. Some milky oil came out of the cooler port, but is now replaced by some Rotella I had sitting around. Definitely had good compression and no scary noises. Going to get an oil filter and plug and putting this bitch back in.
I plan on running it for 15-20 minutes on the new oil (if it runs), and then swapping it out. Should I start out with a little Lucas HD Stabilizer first, or just run straight 5w30?
I hooked it up to an old truck battery and cranked it over for a bit. Some milky oil came out of the cooler port, but is now replaced by some Rotella I had sitting around. Definitely had good compression and no scary noises. Going to get an oil filter and plug and putting this bitch back in.
I plan on running it for 15-20 minutes on the new oil (if it runs), and then swapping it out. Should I start out with a little Lucas HD Stabilizer first, or just run straight 5w30?
Posted on 4/1/15 at 6:57 pm to Hammertime
Well, it looks like I need to get the cylinders honed and new rings. That bitch was smoking more than a seafoam party at a Marlboro convention. Smoked out my whole yard, but it ran without knocking. After a couple of minutes of running, the spark plug had a bunch of oil on it
Any idea on the cost? A ring kit is like $25, so should I just run with that? I'm not trying to spend hundreds of dollars on this thing. Just want to do exactly what is needed and nothing else
Any idea on the cost? A ring kit is like $25, so should I just run with that? I'm not trying to spend hundreds of dollars on this thing. Just want to do exactly what is needed and nothing else
This post was edited on 4/1/15 at 7:15 pm
Posted on 4/2/15 at 5:51 pm to Hammertime
Where are you located? Retired guy in Ascension parish fixes them daily and he is good. Cheap too. No Atv he hasn't seen. Get a quote from him. Hell he will sit w you and show you how to do it all.
Posted on 4/2/15 at 7:50 pm to SenseiBuddy
Nah, I talked to a buddy that works on them all of the time and he reiterated what I was thinking. Ordered a ring kit and a gasket kit that should be here by 11am tomorrow. We'll see what happens when it all goes back together
Posted on 4/2/15 at 8:09 pm to Hammertime
First time seeing this thread and it's great. I know nothing about engine repair but it's cool to follow along
Posted on 4/2/15 at 8:54 pm to FelicianaTigerfan
I don't know much about four wheeler engines, but all engines generally work the same. Fuel, air, compression, spark (I know lubrication and cooling, but whatever). Need all four basic things to run.
I like breaking things down to the basics and then using the process of elimination from there. If this works, the cost to get it running goes from $2011 to $98. Pretty sweet savings IMHO
I like breaking things down to the basics and then using the process of elimination from there. If this works, the cost to get it running goes from $2011 to $98. Pretty sweet savings IMHO
Posted on 4/2/15 at 8:54 pm to FelicianaTigerfan
It is incredible to me how difficult it can be to work on an ATV or motorcycle without significant disassembly. The motor is right there but it is so hard to access certain pieces. Even disassembly can be difficult.
Posted on 4/2/15 at 8:59 pm to Hammertime
Check piston skirt to cylinder wall clearance. If its to far out of spec bore. The rattling could have been timing chain but was most likely piston slap. Hondas will usually do this, if you sink them.
You can register on mudinmyblood.com for like seven bucks and get almost any atv/utv manual. Or I can email you my login info.
You can register on mudinmyblood.com for like seven bucks and get almost any atv/utv manual. Or I can email you my login info.
Posted on 4/2/15 at 9:08 pm to greasemonkey
I'm gonna get it all back together tomorrow and see what happens. It only takes like 10 minutes to get apart, and probably 30 to put back together
Should I rough up the cylinder with sandpaper before I put the new rings in?
I might email you again if I run into some problems
Should I rough up the cylinder with sandpaper before I put the new rings in?
I might email you again if I run into some problems
This post was edited on 4/2/15 at 9:10 pm
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