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re: New Rifle won't group - Need Help
Posted on 6/20/13 at 12:28 am to faxis
Posted on 6/20/13 at 12:28 am to faxis
I concur with everything Faxis said.
I recently watched a show on long range shooting where the host had a special forces sniper school armorer on.
His revelations about a clean barrel were quite thought provoking. Seems they find that on ALL their sniper rifles it is best to have a barrel that has had 40-50 rounds down it. Seems that amount leaves just enough copper in the rifleing to tighten the groups up to the very best each rifle is capable of, all other factors equal.
Not saying this is your issue, just some FYI.
Also are you letting the barrel cool between shots or just shooting 3-5 rnds with no break?
The slightest clearance problem with the bedding/free float of the barrel will be magnified with a hot barrel. But that kind of problem usually results in a pattern where the rounds start walking away from center in a linear pattern.
My money is on the rail though, as others have previously stated.
I recently watched a show on long range shooting where the host had a special forces sniper school armorer on.
His revelations about a clean barrel were quite thought provoking. Seems they find that on ALL their sniper rifles it is best to have a barrel that has had 40-50 rounds down it. Seems that amount leaves just enough copper in the rifleing to tighten the groups up to the very best each rifle is capable of, all other factors equal.
Not saying this is your issue, just some FYI.
Also are you letting the barrel cool between shots or just shooting 3-5 rnds with no break?
The slightest clearance problem with the bedding/free float of the barrel will be magnified with a hot barrel. But that kind of problem usually results in a pattern where the rounds start walking away from center in a linear pattern.
My money is on the rail though, as others have previously stated.
Posted on 6/20/13 at 12:33 am to CptRusty
quote:
New Rifle won't group - Need Help
got $100 that says it's the fluted barrel
Posted on 6/20/13 at 12:35 am to BayouFann
Wont be me, but I'm just sayin...
You'd lose that bet.
That rifle can shoot tighter groups than that with open sights.
You'd lose that bet.
That rifle can shoot tighter groups than that with open sights.
Posted on 6/20/13 at 7:33 am to CptRusty
Are the scope rings providing a good fit? Check the scope mounts first, they may be lose. You have quality hardware but its not unknown to have a bad fit.
And like another said...at least 3 shot groups before adjusting.
And like another said...at least 3 shot groups before adjusting.
Posted on 6/20/13 at 7:39 am to CptRusty
I don't think faxis likes your rail.
Loose mounts would be my first guess, but you said you checked them, right? If not, check rings, mounts, and rail.
If its a brand new rifle, sometimes it takes a box of ammo to break the barrel in. I'd think you'd still get better groups than that, but maybe not. Hunker down on all mounts and try another few rounds.
If not, it may be the Indian, not the arrow.
Loose mounts would be my first guess, but you said you checked them, right? If not, check rings, mounts, and rail.
If its a brand new rifle, sometimes it takes a box of ammo to break the barrel in. I'd think you'd still get better groups than that, but maybe not. Hunker down on all mounts and try another few rounds.
If not, it may be the Indian, not the arrow.
Posted on 6/20/13 at 7:41 am to AUTimbo
My 700's group goes from a half inch to 6 inches at 100 if I don't let it cool.
And it doesn't take much to heat up. It's hot after three shots.
And it doesn't take much to heat up. It's hot after three shots.
Posted on 6/20/13 at 8:00 am to JAB528
remington
theres your problem
theres your problem
Posted on 6/20/13 at 8:16 am to CptRusty
Another thing when you shot and then said one click, that is only 1/4 inch at 100 yards. Shoot three spaced shots then move it one way up or over , tap the scope lightly with a r über hammer afterwards. Not suppose to have to do this anymore but I do it anyway. Totally agree to loose the rail? But how long are you waiting between shots? That rem should shoot 2 inch groups at 200, mine does with a 8 power scope. Mine shoots Hornady ammo the best by the way. I always start at 25 yards, dead on there is dead on at 200, try it.
Posted on 6/20/13 at 8:16 am to oleyeller
Many thanks for the feedback fellas. I will be exploring all avenues and I'll make an update the next time I'm out there.
Posted on 6/20/13 at 8:20 am to BIG Texan
quote:
Another thing when you shot and then said one click, that is only 1/4 inch at 100 yards
The scope is set up with 1/10 Mil turrets, which is .36 inch at 100 yards.
Posted on 6/20/13 at 8:24 am to CptRusty
I agree with Faxis that the mount/rail seems like it may be the culprit.
If I hadnt read your story and just looked at the pics I'd actually say it was the shooter.
If I hadnt read your story and just looked at the pics I'd actually say it was the shooter.
Posted on 6/20/13 at 8:33 am to wiltznucs
quote:
If I hadnt read your story and just looked at the pics I'd actually say it was the shooter.
That's a fair diagnosis. Problem is I can do much better with my Winchester M70 (7 mag). Still, it is a possibility which needs to be eliminated from the troubleshooting checklist. Next time out I will be bringing multiple rifles and lots of tools so I can start swapping scopes and the dreaded rail.
Posted on 6/20/13 at 8:39 am to CptRusty
If get a few different ammo boxes and try them.
Posted on 6/20/13 at 8:48 am to CptRusty
I have seen a gunsmith, friends step dad, do a demonstration with a gun where he slid a piece of paper between the barrel and stock. It slid great while cold. He started putting rounds through it and repeating the paper slide. The paper would bind more and more, on one side and the bottom while the gap on the other side increased - moving all over the place, as the barrel heated up. He was shocked the gun was such a POS, the barrel must have had inclusions or non homogeneous metal.
He was hired to sight the gun in, something which no one could do.
He was hired to sight the gun in, something which no one could do.
This post was edited on 6/20/13 at 8:52 am
Posted on 6/20/13 at 9:32 am to CptRusty
Starting with the most simplest, are you positive that all the screws on the base and rings are tight? Maybe check them and dap a little lok tite on them. I would start by taking everything off and then reinstalling rail, rings, and scope. If the problem persists then different ammo may help. If it still slings lead all over, may be a defect in scope. I know it's a very expensive scope, but like you said, human error can still occur in manufacturing.
Posted on 6/20/13 at 9:36 am to CptRusty
You have to get the mounts aligned correctly also. You can probably look that up on youtube how to do it with a laser and a bar. And don't forget the torque screwdriver. If you get that part right, and it's still doing it, slap a different scope on it and see what happens.
Honestly, that might should be the first thing you should do just to eliminate it before you start working your way down. I'm not a fan of the rail, but that doesn't mean that's absolutely the problem.
Honestly, that might should be the first thing you should do just to eliminate it before you start working your way down. I'm not a fan of the rail, but that doesn't mean that's absolutely the problem.
Posted on 6/20/13 at 9:41 am to 4X4DEMON
You may want to get new screws if you've been jacking with it also.
After a few times tightened and loosened, they'll break if you've over-torqued them. Then you'll be reallllllllllll pissed
After a few times tightened and loosened, they'll break if you've over-torqued them. Then you'll be reallllllllllll pissed
Posted on 6/20/13 at 10:36 am to CptRusty
quote:
Starting with the most simplest, are you positive that all the screws on the base and rings are tight? Maybe check them and dap a little lok tite on them. I would start by taking everything off and then reinstalling rail, rings, and scope. If the problem persists then different ammo may help. If it still slings lead all over, may be a defect in scope. I know it's a very expensive scope, but like you said, human error can still occur in manufacturing.
1+.
I'll add a few other thoughts.
1. I'd FIRST rule out a problem w/ the scope, rings or base. I'm not familiar either w/ that scope, rings and base. Unfortunately, just because something's expensive doesn't make it immune to having a problem. Change to a scope on one of your other guns, a scope you KNOW to be reliable and accurate.
2. Remount the base, using BLUE Loc-Tite (NOT red). I'm not familiar w/ rails as I've never needed one. I always use the $10 Weaver bases, even on my prairie dog handguns. Easy, and cheap enough, to try your rifle w/ a Weaver base.
3. Remount the rings. I don't use Loc-Tite on the rings. If the rings have not been lapped, do so. If you don't have the equipment to lap them or don't feel comfortable doing it, change the rings to Burris Signature Z-Rings (the ones w/ plastic inserts).
4. Check for any high spots in the barrel channel or action part of the stock. (Sounds like you've already done this).
5. Some guns don't shoot well w/ a free floated barrel. Create a pressure point on the barrel at the front tip of your stock by putting 1-2 business cards at the very front of the stock in the barrel channel.
6. Check the action screws.
7. Use a torque wrench (and follows it's recs) to adjust the mount, rings and action screws.
8. Try different ammo. Sometimes a gun barrel needs more than 3-4 shots w/ a particular load before it starts shooting it well.
9. I don't worry to awfully much about letting a barrel cool down entirely between shots. A well bedded gun should be reasonably accurate even w/ a hot barrel.
10. Be sure the crown is not damaged.
11. If it's not reasonably improved w/ the above, I bet it's a more serious problem w/ the barrel/action itself. Good luck and keep us updated.
ETA: Before installing the scope base w/ Loc-Tite, individually check the length of each screw. Put the base in place, then screw in a screw into the intended hole. If the base is not TIGHT, the screw is too long. If the screw is too long, cut off the excess w/ a Dremel tool or get a new screw. It should have a minimum of 3 threads for it to have adequate strength. If it doesn't, replace it. Repeat this step w/ each screw in a different hole.
This post was edited on 6/20/13 at 11:52 am
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