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Started By
Message
ATTN: contractors/engineers of the OB
Posted on 3/21/17 at 2:58 pm
Posted on 3/21/17 at 2:58 pm
Hey fellas, so I need some advice. This is a photo of the framing going up on my house that's currently being built.
It's a spec house, and have zero leeway with changing the floor plan.
Bottom line: I hate the wall between the two headers in the photo. It separates what's to be the kitchen from the living area, and I want to open that wall up as much as possible. I imagine it's going to be carrying a good amount of weight, so I think taking the wall out in its entirety is a no go. What does the OB think about putting a cased opening in the wall between the two headers? The kitchen island is on the back side of that wall, so I could maybe put matching granite or something on the bottom of the cased opening.
I'm totally ignorant when it comes to framing, but I want the wall either a.) gone, or b.) opened as much as possible. Help plz.
Thanks in advance
.
It's a spec house, and have zero leeway with changing the floor plan.
Bottom line: I hate the wall between the two headers in the photo. It separates what's to be the kitchen from the living area, and I want to open that wall up as much as possible. I imagine it's going to be carrying a good amount of weight, so I think taking the wall out in its entirety is a no go. What does the OB think about putting a cased opening in the wall between the two headers? The kitchen island is on the back side of that wall, so I could maybe put matching granite or something on the bottom of the cased opening.
I'm totally ignorant when it comes to framing, but I want the wall either a.) gone, or b.) opened as much as possible. Help plz.
Thanks in advance
.This post was edited on 3/21/17 at 3:02 pm
11
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:00 pm to bluemoons
Picture didn't come through.
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:00 pm to bluemoons
No pic?
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:01 pm to AutoYes_Clown
Sorry about that. Fixed.
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:02 pm to bluemoons
How wide? You may be able to use a laminated beam in the attic as a strong back
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:04 pm to bluemoons
You need a structural beam 12-14 inch to take out the entire wall.
ETA: Maybe bigger, wouldn't be hard to figure out.
ETA: Maybe bigger, wouldn't be hard to figure out.
This post was edited on 3/21/17 at 3:06 pm
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:04 pm to bluemoons
You want to remove the wall completely between those two doorways? A new beam could be sized to do that. It would run the entire span of the opening and the load would need to be calculated to determine the size required.
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:20 pm to jorconalx
quote:
How wide? You may be able to use a laminated beam in the attic as a strong back
I'd estimate about 6' (the wall). Studs are spaced 16" I believe.
quote:
You want to remove the wall completely between those two doorways? A new beam could be sized to do that. It would run the entire span of the opening and the load would need to be calculated to determine the size required.
Best case scenario, yes. I'd like the wall between the doorways totally gone. It's all going to have to be done after the house is finished though.
How much would you estimate it would cost to put a beam there? I talked to a construction buddy and his engineer looked at it. He said I run a serious risk of the whole damn roof caving in if I remove those headers.
If that's cost prohibitive, I'm also down to put a cased opening there like I said in OP. How much do you think that would run? And would it be easier to do that running a beam across the whole opening?
This post was edited on 3/21/17 at 3:21 pm
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:22 pm to bluemoons
It looks like it's 18'-19'. You need to remove the headers and use a double 2"x 12" or glue lam to span the distance. You can also add a column in the center. If it's a spec house and you can't change the floor plan, will they let you change the way it currently is? Regardless of cost, now is the least expensive to do it.
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:23 pm to whatshisface
quote:
If it's a spec house and you can't change the floor plan, will they let you change the way it currently is? Regardless of cost, now is the least expensive to do it.
Unfortunately no. I can't change anything until the house is finished, so all of this will have to be done once the house is done. Sucks, I know.
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:26 pm to bluemoons
quote:
He said I run a serious risk of the whole damn roof caving in if I remove those headers.
Not with a good temporary shoring plan, but you gotta pay extra for that if you can even find someone able and willing to assume liability.
ETA:
quote:
You need to remove the headers and use a double 2"x 12" or glue lam to span the distance.
LVL or parallam will handle more load and it's cheaper. Glulams are good for exposed members.
This post was edited on 3/21/17 at 3:29 pm
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:29 pm to bluemoons
A beam across the entire lenght would be okay only if the footing under the slab can support it. And since the slab was designed for the current framing I doubt it would work. You can't just re-set load-bearing points anywhere on a slab. Those points will have additional footing under the slab. However if your load isn't great then you may be able to get away with changing load points.
Sounds like you are on the right path with the cased opening. This would be simplest by far to do after the fact. Not sure if you would be doing after house is completely done with flooring laid. Removing entire wall after flooring is laid would be a pain and most likely wouldn't look right.
Sounds like you are on the right path with the cased opening. This would be simplest by far to do after the fact. Not sure if you would be doing after house is completely done with flooring laid. Removing entire wall after flooring is laid would be a pain and most likely wouldn't look right.
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:31 pm to bluemoons
Have you already signed a contract this early in the construction? A builder shouldn't be hesitant to change it at this point - just negotiate a price with him to take out the wall and place a beam there. If he is, he's a dick and I wouldn't want to deal with him.
There's going to be several more things you'll come across that you may want to change, and any good builder will work to please you (as long as you don't go crazy on him).
Good luck and keep us posted.
There's going to be several more things you'll come across that you may want to change, and any good builder will work to please you (as long as you don't go crazy on him).
Good luck and keep us posted.
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:34 pm to Chuker
quote:
Sounds like you are on the right path with the cased opening. This would be simplest by far to do after the fact. Not sure if you would be doing after house is completely done with flooring laid. Removing entire wall after flooring is laid would be a pain and most likely wouldn't look right.
Right. House would be totally finished. Any idea what it would cost to put a cased opening there?
Thanks for all the advice guys.
quote:
Have you already signed a contract this early in the construction? A builder shouldn't be hesitant to change it at this point - just negotiate a price with him to take out the wall and place a beam there. If he is, he's a dick and I wouldn't want to deal with him. There's going to be several more things you'll come across that you may want to change, and any good builder will work to please you (as long as you don't go crazy on him). Good luck and keep us posted.
Yes. Unfortunately it's a spec house builder and they're not willing to change the floor plan at all, and they developed the neighborhood (think Horton, DSLD, etc.). I like the plan, I just hate that wall.
This post was edited on 3/21/17 at 3:36 pm
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:42 pm to bluemoons
There is no way in hell I would let this go any further in the process. If you want the opening moved or enlarged, NOW is the time to do it. Nothing is going to cave in or collapse. Matter of fact, there is zero load on the plate right now. How much weight do you think that 2x4 wall and two headers were designed for?? Not any more than a simple beam could support. It's basically just a little larger header, and you can bet there is no special foundation support other than a continuous beam under that wall.
If I lived closer, I'd come change it after he left in the afternoon, and you could tell him you didn't know what happened.
The more I look at that pic and think about your simple request, the more ridiculous your builder seems.
If I lived closer, I'd come change it after he left in the afternoon, and you could tell him you didn't know what happened.
The more I look at that pic and think about your simple request, the more ridiculous your builder seems.
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:44 pm to bluemoons
quote:
cost to put a cased opening there?
under a thousand and over 400.
Seems like you said a counter would be going next to one wall so that could complicate things as far as mechanicals (pluming ect) that might end up in wall.
The simplest scenario would be if wall is nothing but empty studs and maybe an electrical wire or two.
The carpenter would need to install short header under studs that are removed. Then casing would be trimmed out around opening. Drywall would need to be replaced/mudded at least around new header.
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:53 pm to bluemoons
Instead of opening it up, make it a solid brick fireplace that separates the two spaces?
We did it in our house and are pleased with the result. Don't judge the decor, we had been in for about 3 days in the pic.
We did it in our house and are pleased with the result. Don't judge the decor, we had been in for about 3 days in the pic.
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:53 pm to SCwTiger
quote:
There is no way in hell I would let this go any further in the process. If you want the opening moved or enlarged, NOW is the time to do it. Nothing is going to cave in or collapse. Matter of fact, there is zero load on the plate right now. How much weight do you think that 2x4 wall and two headers were designed for?? Not any more than a simple beam could support. It's basically just a little larger header, and you can bet there is no special foundation support other than a continuous beam under that wall.
If I lived closer, I'd come change it after he left in the afternoon, and you could tell him you didn't know what happened.
The more I look at that pic and think about your simple request, the more ridiculous your builder seems.
A corporation puts these houses up, not an individual builder. If it were an individual builder, it wouldn't be an issue. These guys will not change their specs for anything. These are just the cards I've got so I'm trying to figure out the best way to go about opening the wall up. Backing out of the build or looking elsewhere isn't an option.
Posted on 3/21/17 at 3:56 pm to Chuker
quote:
under a thousand and over 400.
Seems like you said a counter would be going next to one wall so that could complicate things as far as mechanicals (pluming ect) that might end up in wall.
The simplest scenario would be if wall is nothing but empty studs and maybe an electrical wire or two.
The carpenter would need to install short header under studs that are removed. Then casing would be trimmed out around opening. Drywall would need to be replaced/mudded at least around new header.
Thanks man. This may be the route I take. I'm not really keen on spending $3-4k to open this space considering I don't plan on staying in the house very long. I wouldn't mind putting a cased opening there and surfacing the bottom with matching granite. That would also allow me to put a couple of barstools on the living room side, if that makes sense.
eta: who would be the proper person to hire to put in a cased opening? Just a carpenter?
This post was edited on 3/21/17 at 4:05 pm
Posted on 3/21/17 at 4:10 pm to bluemoons
Steel beam or glu-lam if you have clearance above in attic.
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