re: Homebrewing: What's New?

quote:

---

Will have to see what all the plans for bachelor party and fall trip and all work out to be. But I'm interested.

---

Cool. I was thinking of going to visit friends in Portland, but they are terrible with contacting me back, so I am bailing on that idea. Then Boo invited me to go to the beer bloggers conference and I think its going to be too pricey for me and the more I think about it its not really my thing. So figure I would think about hitting up a couple of places the wife doesnt have an interest in going to.

quote:

---

I've always racked to secondary on top of my hops to dry hop. Main reason is to get it off all the trub and have lest yeast sediment in the final product. But I don't think it's necessary. Maybe I should try it the other way next time.

---

I've always done the same thing, but it's also because I primary in a glass carboy and secondary in a bucket, so it's far easier to clean the hops out and everything from the bucket.

quote:

---

Well that would be the idea in theory. But I am curious if another week of sitting on the yeast would actually make a difference. Like does it have an effect on the hop character you get? Does it matter if you just throw hops in or put the beer on top of the hops? Minute questions that I typically do not worry about at all.

---

Oh, and another reason (theoretically) is that I primary in a 6.5 gallon bucket, then secondary in a 5 gallon one. Supposedly less chance for oxidation with less head space after primary fermentation is complete. Again, I haven't tested it the other way, so I don't really have an answer.

quote:

---

True, but if you just threw the hops in the primary, there shouldn't be anything but Co2 in the head space. In the end though: Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Homebrew

---

Absolutely.

Do you throw your hops in loose, or bag 'em up? Pellet or leaf?

I throw my hops in loose. I do have 5 packages of different leaf hops that have been in my freezer for a couple months. I was going to do a hop experiment by dry hopping some bud lights and re-sealing them. However i didn't want to waste money on buying bud light. But, i did just have a bbq for the family at the house, and i have some shite beer leftover i could use that for.

OH, i also ordered this bad boy.







So i have a lot of fun beer experimenting to do.

quote:

---

Typically it is pellet since that is what I normally have around. I dont like putting the bag in the carboy, since mine are disgusting and I don't think I could clean them well enough. Actually after using 3 of them this weekend, I decided it was easier to throw them away and buy new ones. So in the end I just end up dumping them in with no bag.

---

You have any issues with hop residue getting into your keg? Or do you cold crash and siphon carefully?

I've been doing bags to keep it all contained, because I never know if I'll have room in my fridge/kegerator to cold crash before kegging. I have a bunch of muslin hop bags that I just throw away afterwards.

quote:

---

You have any issues with hop residue getting into your keg? Or do you cold crash and siphon carefully?

I've been doing bags to keep it all contained, because I never know if I'll have room in my fridge/kegerator to cold crash before kegging. I have a bunch of muslin hop bags that I just throw away afterwards.

---

BMoney, I'd think twice about racking from big bucket to small bucket just for the sake of headspace.

The process of transferring is much more likely to introduce O2 unless you're purging with CO2 and doing a closed transfer.

If I was fermenting in a large bucket I'd dry hop after primary fermentation is complete just by adding the loose hops to the bucket and then to prevent hop particles from getting into the keg I'd wrap a nylon grain bag around the end of the auto siphon tip and maybe use a little biofine clear in the keg to knock out any extra yeast you may have picked up(but try to stay away from the yeast cake as you're transferring).


To me this makes the process as simple as possible while minimizing the chance for infection and oxidization greatly.

Question about pumps.

I use good ole gravity, with my make shift 3 tier system. Some people have scene it in my in process threads. I basically have my sparge tank on a table on top of bricks, leading to my mash tun on a chair, leading to my brew pot on the ground.

My question is with the pumps. How hard are they to clean after brew day? I eventually would like to make a brew stand and would consider pumping, just not sure i want to deal with the cleanup, if i have to take it apart every time to clean it.

Also, I use 10 gallon igloo coolers for my all-grain system. It holds heat extremely well. For those that use the cut-out kegs, how much wort loss do you get by continuously heating your mash? Any danger of grains being burnt, since your mash is under a constant fire?

quote:

---

Did you wrap it on the inlet or outlet? I find if I filter the outlet side it works much better. Just leave a balloon shaped filter on the end.

---

Inlet. I'm sure outlet would work much better, but I got annoyed and scrapped it altogether.
Turned out the best batch I've made, despite several attempts to screw it up along the way.

FYI related to my off-shoot discussion from earlier:

quote:

---

Artist Mitchell Gaudet owns the entity that sold the Japonica Street building and has been active in the Bywater commercial market as a seller. Last month, a Gaudet entity sold a building at 3000 Royal St. to Union Brew Pub LLC, which Nahum Laventhal heads.

---

LINK ][LINK]

Anyone know anything about said bolded LLC?

/scratches chin