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re: Homebrewing: In-Process Thread
Posted on 4/15/15 at 10:43 am to rbWarEagle
Posted on 4/15/15 at 10:43 am to rbWarEagle
quote:
Yeah, I imagine so. I would love to get a color like that from my next DIPA.
My guess
2 row - 82%
flaked oats - 8%
Carapils - 5%
Vienna Malt - 5%
Shitload of Citra, Amarillo, and Columbus is my guess.
1
Posted on 4/15/15 at 10:53 am to BugAC
quote:
My guess
2 row - 82%
flaked oats - 8%
Carapils - 5%
Vienna Malt - 5%
Shitload of Citra, Amarillo, and Columbus is my guess.
I don't know enough about malt to discuss this in depth, but I damn sure will be trying this soon.
Posted on 4/15/15 at 11:11 am to rbWarEagle
Well 2 row is a base malt, and is very common in nearly all styles, especially american IPA.
The haze you see in Ghost, has to be oats. Flaked oats also attribute to a smoother mouthfeel.
THe vienna will give it more of an orange/yellow color and provide some malt background for the beer.
And the carapils will brighten the beer substantially.
I would wager that most if not all of these are part of the malt bill. The Vienna is the only one i'm not positive about. It could be interchanged with some low crystal malts or even honey.
The haze you see in Ghost, has to be oats. Flaked oats also attribute to a smoother mouthfeel.
THe vienna will give it more of an orange/yellow color and provide some malt background for the beer.
And the carapils will brighten the beer substantially.
I would wager that most if not all of these are part of the malt bill. The Vienna is the only one i'm not positive about. It could be interchanged with some low crystal malts or even honey.
This post was edited on 4/15/15 at 11:14 am
Posted on 4/15/15 at 11:13 am to BugAC
Very nice. Thanks for the info.Posted on 4/15/15 at 2:10 pm to BugAC
Quick question:
My fermentation should be done in the next day or two. The airlock is bubbling about once every 10-15 seconds as of this morning. How long should I wait to transfer?
My fermentation should be done in the next day or two. The airlock is bubbling about once every 10-15 seconds as of this morning. How long should I wait to transfer?
Posted on 4/15/15 at 2:19 pm to rbWarEagle
quote:
My fermentation should be done in the next day or two. The airlock is bubbling about once every 10-15 seconds as of this morning. How long should I wait to transfer?
Patience, young grasshopper.
I wouldn't transfer until after I dry hopped when I was ready to keg, or in your case bottle. But I think you've established that you want to clean an extra fermenter and risk oxidation, so give it 7 to 10 days from pitching before transferring.
Posted on 4/15/15 at 2:31 pm to BMoney
quote:
I wouldn't transfer until after I dry hopped when I was ready to keg, or in your case bottle. But I think you've established that you want to clean an extra fermenter and risk oxidation
Plenty of people dry hop in a secondary, man. From a AB "Brew Scientist":
quote:
When homebrewing with glass carboys, I like to wait until I'm 2-3 plato from target and then transfer from my primary into a secondary that has the hops already in it. You'll get a nice CO2 blanket, and the O2 you do pick up will be taken up by the still-active yeast. You only need 3 days at the most to get the hop aroma out of your dry hop charge, which should be enough time to hit your target gravity (although going a little bit longer isn't going to hurt you).
Link to page
Posted on 4/15/15 at 3:15 pm to rbWarEagle
quote:
From a AB "Brew Scientist":
You're getting that good Running Monk brewing knowledge and you break out the advice on dry hopping from a BMC brewer.
Posted on 4/15/15 at 3:23 pm to LSUGrad00
I don't know who the hell you guys are, but sometimes you take a while to answer questions so I have to go searching the interwebs for other opinions. That guy seemed to know his shite, though. BMoney:
My dude... just help me out here. Are you suggesting that I dry hop in the primary after ferm is done and then just go straight to a bottling bucket from there? If so, hop bag or no hop bag (for pellets). How long? Any other tips?
This post was edited on 4/15/15 at 3:25 pm
Posted on 4/15/15 at 3:43 pm to rbWarEagle
quote:
rbWarEagle
I don't claim to be the expert of homebrewing. But i've always secondaried to dry hop and have never had oxidation issues with my beer. I will continue to do this because though i am not concerned with appearence, it do appreciate a pretty looking beer and secondarying does clear the beer some.
I also feel more confident that i get more hop utilization out of the dry hop by racking my beer onto the hops, rather than throwing hops in the fermenter.
I also "dry-hop" onto any fruit, coffee, wood, etc... when i do any flavoring additions to any beers.
And, if it gets bogged down here, you can always go to www.homebrewtalk.com or byo.com for more information. Trust me, i know what it's like when you first get the brew bug. I've been doing it for 4 years now and i still get excited every time i brew.
This post was edited on 4/15/15 at 3:44 pm
Posted on 4/15/15 at 3:50 pm to BugAC
Thank you. If you were dry hopping with pellets, did you just throw them straight in and then rack or do you use a bag? Also, assuming you use a carboy to secondary, is head space a concern for you? I can't remember at the moment but I think my carboy might be more than 5 gallons (which is the amount I brewed).Posted on 4/15/15 at 3:50 pm to rbWarEagle
quote:
I don't know who the hell you guys are, but sometimes you take a while to answer questions so I have to go searching the interwebs for other opinions. That guy seemed to know his shite, though.
Only real answer is for you to try it yourself. See what you like and don't like. See what works for you.
There's more than one way to skin a cat when it comes to homebrewing.
Posted on 4/15/15 at 3:51 pm to rbWarEagle
quote:
My dude... just help me out here. Are you suggesting that I dry hop in the primary after ferm is done and then just go straight to a bottling bucket from there? If so, hop bag or no hop bag (for pellets). How long? Any other tips?
Exactly what I'm suggesting. Just toss your pellets directly in the primary fermentor. You get the full effect of dry hops after 2-3 days at most. You can leave them in longer of course, but most of the hops work is done after the first 48 hours really.
Trust me, I used to dry hop in secondary. After discussions with several people, including several professional brewers, I determined I was just wasting my time and creating unnecessary work for no real benefit. Been fermenting in one vessel ever since, and the beer turns out just as good.
Posted on 4/15/15 at 3:52 pm to rbWarEagle
quote:
Are you suggesting that I dry hop in the primary after ferm is done and then just go straight to a bottling bucket from there?
Yes.
quote:
f so, hop bag or no hop bag (for pellets).
Use a bag for pellets or you will need one around your siphon when draining to your bottling bucket.
quote:
How long?
3-7 days. Taste.
Posted on 4/15/15 at 3:54 pm to BMoney
I've done it both ways and had great beers all the same. Lately I've been taking the lazier approach and just dry-hopping toward the end of fermentation in the primary vessel.
I am going to rack the mead I brewed sometime in the next few days, but that's for entirely different reasons.
I am going to rack the mead I brewed sometime in the next few days, but that's for entirely different reasons.
Posted on 4/15/15 at 3:57 pm to rbWarEagle
quote:
Thank you. If you were dry hopping with pellets, did you just throw them straight in and then rack or do you use a bag? Also, assuming you use a carboy to secondary, is head space a concern for you? I can't remember at the moment but I think my carboy might be more than 5 gallons (which is the amount I brewed).
I throw the pellets in and rack directly on top. Headspace has never been an issue. I've primaried in 5 and 6 gallon fermenters and dry hopped in a 6.5 gallon fermenter. No issues. Now if i was working in a bucket, i'd be a bit more concerned. But i don't trust buckets to keep oxygen out.
Recently i brewed 5.5 gallons of a saison and split the batch between 2 - 3 gallon fermenters. One was racked on blood oranges, the other on oak. One of the small fermenters is a better bottle (which are awesome. I'd use nothing but those if i didn't already have 4 glass carboys). Well the better bottle had what appeared to be about 1/2 to 1 gallon of headspace and it turned out fine. This was the batch where my racking cane malfunctioned and was sucking up air. The beer never oxidized and came out fine.
Posted on 4/15/15 at 3:58 pm to LSUGrad00
quote:
You're getting that good Running Monk brewing knowledge and you break out the advice on dry hopping from a BMC brewer.
What, you don't like the hop profile of Busch light?
Posted on 4/15/15 at 3:59 pm to BMoney
quote:
Trust me, I used to dry hop in secondary. After discussions with several people, including several professional brewers, I determined I was just wasting my time and creating unnecessary work for no real benefit. Been fermenting in one vessel ever since, and the beer turns out just as good.
Alright, so are you bagging the racking cane like Bottomland suggested?
Posted on 4/15/15 at 4:04 pm to LoneStarTiger
quote:
You're getting that good Running Monk brewing knowledge and you break out the advice on dry hopping from a BMC brewer.
What, you don't like the hop profile of Busch light?
I loathe the macro breweries as much as the next craft enthusiasts, but the brewers at AB know what they are doing, and are some of the finest in the country. Hell, Mitch Steele worked for AB for over a decade before going to Stone.
And, FWIW, B is a hell of a brewer.
Posted on 4/15/15 at 4:04 pm to LSUBoo
quote:
I've done it both ways and had great beers all the same. Lately I've been taking the lazier approach and just dry-hopping toward the end of fermentation in the primary vessel.
You say lazy, I say efficient.
But I don't care about getting a little sediment in my bottles. The beer will clear up just fine in the bottles while it conditions.
Hell, I don't even bother screening or filtering trub from the kettle into the fermenter. I just pour all that shite in and let it settle out in the fermenter. It's not going to hurt anything for the 10-14 days the beer is in the fermenter.
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