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re: Homebrewing: Calculating a American Pale Ale Recipe
Posted on 2/8/13 at 7:16 am to Aubie Spr96
Posted on 2/8/13 at 7:16 am to Aubie Spr96
quote:
Also, the FWH addition shows up as more IBU's, but it will not be as bitter. I can't explain it, but it rounds out the bitterness and actually makes it smoother. Don't worry about getting higher IBU's.
Yeah, I always have a tough time with estimating the contribution of FWH. I usually only do it in IPA's since there is more wiggle room for bitterness.
FWIW, OP, I dry hop every APA I make. I would not even think of not dry hopping.
1
Posted on 2/8/13 at 7:22 am to BugAC
quote:
EST. ABV 6.2%
A little big for a Pale ale huh?
Swampdog. Where do you dry hop your Pale ale. I like the fact that I can have a pale ale out the door in 9 days or so which wouldn't leave me any time to rack to a bucket and dry hop for a week.
Posted on 2/8/13 at 8:21 am to 8thyearsenior
quote:
What are you hoping for with a 1/4 pound of cara pils and the .5 pound of cara amber?
I've used cara-pils before, but in larger quantities. The head on that beer was pretty stout. So i wanted to keep some of the head retention, just not as much.
The amber was used, because A) to add some color and B) i've researched some pale ale's and IPA's that i like, and a few use amber malt. Granted the 1/2 lb probably doesn't amount to much, but i wanted to keep my base grain to specialty grain ratio of 85/15, which is typical of pale ale's.
quote:
Why the pound of Munich and a pound of crystal 20?
The crystal 20 is for more body and color as well as the Munich. Granted i might not be able to tell much from the addition, but we'll see.
quote:
A thirty minute hop addition is probably a bad idea. Either add it at 60 or 15
I've done 30 minute hop additions all the time with no bad effects. Why do you say it's a bad idea?
Posted on 2/8/13 at 8:22 am to s14suspense
quote:
A little big for a Pale ale huh?
I'm adjusting a little for efficiency. And i forgot to edit the OP. Beersmith shows me at 6%, i think.
Posted on 2/8/13 at 8:53 am to swampdawg
quote:
Yeah, I always have a tough time with estimating the contribution of FWH. I usually only do it in IPA's since there is more wiggle room for bitterness.
I FWH every beer I make. To calculate IBU contribution, I consider it a 20min addition. I haven't done and all FWH beer yet, but maybe I will....... Hmmmmm......
Posted on 2/8/13 at 9:18 am to Aubie Spr96
Question about FWH. You take the hops out before you start to boil correct?
Posted on 2/8/13 at 9:27 am to Fratastic423
quote:
Question about FWH. You take the hops out before you start to boil correct?
Nope, they stay in the entire boil.
Posted on 2/8/13 at 9:37 am to Aubie Spr96
Yeah that's how I have done it on some beers per Denny Conn. actual IBU analysis shows that there is actually more bitterness from FWH than a 60 minute addition though.
Posted on 2/8/13 at 9:41 am to Aubie Spr96
quote:
I FWH every beer I make. To calculate IBU contribution, I consider it a 20min addition. I haven't done and all FWH beer yet, but maybe I will....... Hmmmmm......
Do you have beersmith? It does a bunch of the calculations for you.
I highly recommend it. Been using since i started basically. However, it's really not needed for extract brews.
Posted on 2/8/13 at 9:46 am to s14suspense
I generally dry hop in secondary since I often harvest yeast, but I am rarely looking for a quick turnaround. Sometimes I forget about beers.
I sometimes dry hop in the keg as well. This works best with whole hops rather than pellets. Just put a stainless hose braid over the dip tube and you are good to go. It works best if you leave the hops in the keg at room temperature for several days rather than directly to the fridge.
I sometimes dry hop in the keg as well. This works best with whole hops rather than pellets. Just put a stainless hose braid over the dip tube and you are good to go. It works best if you leave the hops in the keg at room temperature for several days rather than directly to the fridge.
Posted on 2/8/13 at 9:50 am to swampdawg
I'm sure others in here use a 10-gallon cooler as a mash tun? I'm working on a recipe for 10 gallons of an IPA for Zapp's and I'm worried I might be overflowing the mash tun. I'm going to need about 30 pounds, so I'm already going to have to make it a thicker mash than usual.
Is there any way 30 pounds is going to fit or should I partial mash and add some extract to finish it off?
Is there any way 30 pounds is going to fit or should I partial mash and add some extract to finish it off?
Posted on 2/8/13 at 10:01 am to LSUBoo
My cooler is bigger than that but I would imagine you could have a difficult time mashing that. I think it would be easier if you fly sparge.
Do you have Beersmith? It calculates the necessary tun volume.
Do you have Beersmith? It calculates the necessary tun volume.
Posted on 2/8/13 at 10:06 am to swampdawg
I use Brewalchemy and Spargepal. I do fly sparge, so that's a good thing. I think it'll fit, but barely.
Posted on 2/8/13 at 10:23 am to LSUBoo
quote:
Is there any way 30 pounds is going to fit or should I partial mash and add some extract to finish it off?
I don't think so... I use a 10 gallon igloo and I find my limit to be around 20 pounds.
might want to check out this site and work with the "can I mash it?" calculator.
Green Bay Rackers - Mash Calculator
This post was edited on 2/8/13 at 10:24 am
Posted on 2/8/13 at 10:30 am to LSUGrad00
quote:
I don't think so... I use a 10 gallon igloo and I find my limit to be around 20 pounds.
How much water do you use? I am pretty sure that I can fit 32 lbs in mine.
Posted on 2/8/13 at 10:31 am to LSUGrad00
quote:
I don't think so... I use a 10 gallon igloo and I find my limit to be around 20 pounds.
might want to check out this site and work with the "can I mash it?" calculator.
Green Bay Rackers - Mash Calculator
It would take 9.9 gallons at a 1qt. per pound ratio.
I could thicken the ratio even more... it'll be tight though.
Posted on 2/8/13 at 10:37 am to LSUBoo
quote:
I could thicken the ratio even more... it'll be tight though.
Why not split it in half and do 2 mashes?
Posted on 2/8/13 at 10:41 am to Fratastic423
quote:
How much water do you use? I am pretty sure that I can fit 32 lbs in mine.
I always try and use 1.25 qt/lb. I get really good efficiency out of my system at that ratio so I try and stick with it for consistency sake.
I could probably get 25lbs in there at that ratio and maybe another pound or two if I went to 1 qt/lb.
If I needed over 25lb I would probably keep my ratio at 1.25, cut back on my base grains, and add some DME to the boil. That's just what works for my system though.
Posted on 2/8/13 at 10:44 am to LSUGrad00
I love how there is not one way of doing anything in homebrewing. Everyone has a different system with different techniques that all work for them. Its great.
Posted on 2/8/13 at 12:09 pm to swampdawg
quote:
actual IBU analysis shows that there is actually more bitterness from FWH than a 60 minute addition though.
I know it SAYS that, but it doesn't TASTE that. I've made some IPA's in the 80 IBU range that have the bitterness of a pale ale with the hop flavor of a monster IPA.
Also, dry hopping the keg is something I always do with a Pale or IPA. I got tired of the stainless herb balls opening up on me and started using panty hose as a hop sock to dry hop with. Just cut one in half, put the hops in, and tie the ends up. Cheap and easy.
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