- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: Really hate dealing with car dealerships!
Posted on 7/26/12 at 10:48 pm to dallastiger55
Posted on 7/26/12 at 10:48 pm to dallastiger55
quote:
have you seen the new 2013 Pathfinders that come out in October? completely different car built on a maxima base.
I know it's the old body style, but I just saw a commercial for Orr Nissan in Shreveport/Bossier is offering $8,000 off 2012 Pathfinders. Thought yOu might be interested in knowing that.
0
Posted on 7/26/12 at 10:48 pm to dallastiger55
Wow, the pathfinder does look pretty damn good. It needed an overhaul.
Posted on 7/27/12 at 11:15 am to L S Usetheforce
quote:
Never walk out on a good deal because of a trade in...........
False. We got a great price on our Yukon a few years ago and walked out because they said the highest they could go on our almost 2 year old, clean, low mileage Honda CRV was $3K below KBB trade-in value. We said that wasn't going to work, and we wanted at least trade-in since we were getting a good deal on the Yukon. The saleswoman acted like she wasn't going to budge, and we left. She called my wife back that evening and said we had a deal. We picked it up the next day.
ETA: Funny side note. They listed the CRV at $1000 more than we paid for it brand new. CSB
This post was edited on 7/27/12 at 11:17 am
Posted on 7/27/12 at 12:59 pm to TheHiddenFlask
quote:
Simple solution:
Find the car you want.
Figure out the lowest reasonable price on it. (invoice + 500-1000 dollars)
Walk into the dealership, tell them the car you want, the price you are willing to pay, why that is the max you will pay (because you did your research) and ask them if they would rather make the commission or have the dealer across town make it.
Step 3: profit.
Good advice.
Be sure to deduct rebates from Toyota to the Invoice price. A 2012 model probably has (or will very soon) have some incentive to move before the 2013 model is out.
This post was edited on 7/27/12 at 1:04 pm
Posted on 7/27/12 at 4:30 pm to dewster
quote:
Simple solution:
Find the car you want.
Figure out the lowest reasonable price on it. (invoice + 500-1000 dollars)
Walk into the dealership, tell them the car you want, the price you are willing to pay, why that is the max you will pay (because you did your research) and ask them if they would rather make the commission or have the dealer across town make it.
Step 3: profit.
It doesn't work that way. They won't give every Tom, Dick and Harry that comes in off the street that deal. If they did, they would not be in business.
In order to get a great deal, you will have to work for it. Time invested on both sides means there is someting to lose on both ends and something to gain. Both parties are now vested.
Edit ... message directed to The Hidden Flask.
This post was edited on 7/27/12 at 5:27 pm
Posted on 7/27/12 at 4:39 pm to Will Cover
quote:
In order to get a great deal, you will have to work for it. Time invested on both sides means there is someting to lose on both ends and something to gain. Both parties are now vested.
I agree and it makes alot of sense. Time is money.
Posted on 7/30/12 at 9:33 am to AUtigerNOLA
Finally bought one yesterday. Got a loaded Toyota Highlander Limited, MSRP 42K, we got it for $36,750, with 0% financing. Wife loves it, so I guess thats all that matters.
Posted on 7/30/12 at 9:41 am to Kingwood Tiger
Posted on 7/30/12 at 10:34 am to Kingwood Tiger
quote:
$36,750, with 0% financing
Man, I'd have to be a millionaire before I think I could afford a $36,750 car. That's over $500/month on a SIX YEAR loan. Eesh.
But, who knows! You may, in fact, be a millionaire, and who am I to question your decisions! That is awesome. I hope your wife enjoys her new car!
Posted on 7/30/12 at 11:58 am to TheHiddenFlask
quote:
TheHiddenFlask
quote:
Simple solution:
Find the car you want.
Figure out the lowest reasonable price on it. (invoice + 500-1000 dollars)
Walk into the dealership, tell them the car you want, the price you are willing to pay, why that is the max you will pay (because you did your research) and ask them if they would rather make the commission or have the dealer across town make it.
Step 3: profit.
That's the simplest method for someone who isn't well-versed in the art of negotiation.
I would not ever-EVER-walk in someplace & immediately quote them a figure on what I'm willing to pay for a negotiable commodity.
But I cannot begin to describe how much I love to haggle with people, either.
Posted on 7/30/12 at 12:37 pm to GFunk
I hate dealing with local car salesmen.
Last new vehicle I bought in 2006, couldn't find anyone to deal with me in SE LA. Called a couple places in Houston and they quoted several thousand below lowest local quote on a Thurs afternoon. They insalled all the options (John Eagle Honda) on Fri and I flew in Sat morning and they picked me up at the airport. I was driving it (Rideline RTL) home before noon and still saved several thou. All local dealers seemed very snobish compared to those in Houston.
Honda Accord I bought new '98 I bought through SAM's club which minimized dealer interaction. It was a good experience.
Posted on 7/31/12 at 2:28 am to Will Cover
quote:
More steps to getting a better deal ... 3. Never show emotion when negotiating. 4. Never offer or accept the first price. 5. Start off negotiations by saying “that’s not good enough.” 6. Never offer a counter price. 7. Silence is golden. When in doubt, shut up and you will pay less. 8. Know what power you possess by being able to “walk away.” 9. Never negotiate off “MSRP.” The negotiation process should start from the DEALER COST (which is less than INVOICE) price or the WHOLESALE price if purchasing a USED vehicle. 10. Rebates can be deducted from INVOICE price and not MSRP as the dealership will lead you to believe. 11. Know the dealer’s “hold-back” price and what type of incentives that may be offered from the manufacturer or dealership. 12. Don’t discuss a trade-in until you’ve settled on a price for the car you’re buying – each transaction should be separate and not dependent upon one another.
great points, #12 always screws them up, when I tell them I'll decide and let them know.
Posted on 7/31/12 at 11:21 am to Will Cover
great advice throughout MT history dealing w/ cars. I bought back in April. I did most of what you said, except probably the biggest no no in the past (gave them my range). This time, I told them my price depended on the right car.
They did know up front that I was paying cash, was looking for a luxury car, and didn't have a trade in.
Anyways, long story short, I ended up getting almost 3k off of the sticker price b/c I played the quiet game most of the day and was non-reactionary to any price they put in front of me until it got to go time.
Another thing I would add is to shop at the end of the month. Car salesmen and dealers have numbers they need to hit by the end of the month. The guy that sold me mine needed one more sale to make senior sales that month and didn't care what it took to make the deal. I closed at 6PM the last day of the month he was working.
They did know up front that I was paying cash, was looking for a luxury car, and didn't have a trade in.
Anyways, long story short, I ended up getting almost 3k off of the sticker price b/c I played the quiet game most of the day and was non-reactionary to any price they put in front of me until it got to go time.
Another thing I would add is to shop at the end of the month. Car salesmen and dealers have numbers they need to hit by the end of the month. The guy that sold me mine needed one more sale to make senior sales that month and didn't care what it took to make the deal. I closed at 6PM the last day of the month he was working.
Posted on 11/3/12 at 12:18 pm to pleading the fifth
Sorry for the bump - I need some info thats in this thread
Posted on 11/3/12 at 11:51 pm to pleading the fifth
I got to test drive a 2013 pathfinder. Pretty damn sweet. They are sharp indeed.
Drive like a car and have decent mileage for a SUV
Drive like a car and have decent mileage for a SUV
Posted on 11/4/12 at 10:04 am to Will Cover
quote:
15. Extended warranties never make financial sense.
Not true. Thats like saying having health insurance doesn't make financial sense. You may not have to use it but its there if you ever have to use it. If you have a major illness or accident, you won't be bankrupted.
An extended warranty is another form of insurance. If you never have to use it, it may not make 'finacial sense', but if your vehicle's engine/transmission blows up or needs major work, it will pay off.
At least go with a basic power-train warranty(engine and transmission).
Stay away from the cheapo's, go with the manufacturer warranty or go with something like LDS.
Posted on 11/4/12 at 3:40 pm to Reubaltaich
quote:
15. Extended warranties never make financial sense.
Not true. Thats like saying having health insurance doesn't make financial sense. You may not have to use it but its there if you ever have to use it. If you have a major illness or accident, you won't be bankrupted.
Apples to oranges. Self financing health insurance is do-able if you start young and with a health savings plan.
But anyone can self-finance their own auto "warranty". EVERYONE will be better off in the long run if they do.
Posted on 11/4/12 at 3:56 pm to Willie Stroker
quote:
Apples to oranges. Self financing health insurance is do-able if you start young and with a health savings plan.
But anyone can self-finance their own auto "warranty". EVERYONE will be better off in the long run if they do.
+ 1
Posted on 11/4/12 at 4:05 pm to Will Cover
I'm in the minority as I always buy a warranty. I like the fact that I know for the next 5 years or 100K miles I don't have to worry about anything. Had one on a Ford Taurus and the tranny went out at 98K miles. Allowed me to get another 65k miles out of the car whereas with out I would not have sunk $3,500 into a new tranny.
I'm OK with paying a reasonable amount for the warranty for the piece of mind. Might not make financial sense but I'm OK with the tradeoff.
I'm OK with paying a reasonable amount for the warranty for the piece of mind. Might not make financial sense but I'm OK with the tradeoff.
Posted on 11/5/12 at 5:53 pm to LSUnGA
Bookmarked
Page 3 of 4
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News