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Boat trailer bunk issues

Posted on 2/2/15 at 11:18 am
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81604 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 11:18 am
So, yesterday, one of the outside support bunks came off. It came the F off. Appears that the plate that had been attached to the square tubing broke free, so the bolt/screws at still attached to the wood. The trailer was a salt water one in a previous lifetime and all the areas near carpt show rust. Even the side bunk that you kinda bounce off of when driving onto the trailer shows rust at the carpet area.

I was able to tie it down tight enough to not have to leave the boat at the lake, but now I obviously need repairs. I know nothing of how this works. Does one just weld a new plate to the tubing? Should I ask that every one be replaced now? Would buying whole new cross beams be a better option?
Posted by Bleeding purple
Athens, Texas
Member since Sep 2007
25315 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 11:22 am to
assuming it is a painted steel trailer and not a galvanized one?

Take off all bunk boards, check all mounting plates, grind off bad ones and weld on new ones, repaint trailer, and re attach re carpeted bunk boards. Use outdoor carpet glue and stainless steel staples for attaching the carpet. Use galvanized or stainless bolts for attaching the bunkboards.
Posted by jorconalx
alexandria
Member since Aug 2011
8588 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 11:22 am to
Pics would probably help get accurate advice. I would find a boat house to store boat and have trailer redone. All the old welds should be inspected due to its previous use.
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81604 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 11:36 am to
quote:

galvanized one
Posted by jorconalx
alexandria
Member since Aug 2011
8588 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 11:39 am to
quote:

galvanized



pita to weld due to the fumes. You know any welders?
Posted by Boats n Hose
NOLA
Member since Apr 2011
37248 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 11:43 am to
Even if galvanized, you do the same thing. Just have to burn through it when laying down a bead so it takes a little longer to weld/not as pretty. Couple coats of cold galvenize will keep the welded area fine in freshwater use.

Hard to say exactly what to do without looking at it. Best bet is to find some place to put boat off trailer, and bring it to a place that does welding. Only thing then is whether the bunk will be set correctly for the boat. If you can reweld it with the boat still on without it causing problems it may be better. I don't know how it's set up/whether the bunk in question is adjustable or whatnot
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81604 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 11:45 am to
quote:

pita to weld due to the fumes. You know any welders?

Going to go talk to Buzby in a bit. I guess i could just park the boat at IC as if I were camping and hope the water level doesn't drop.
Posted by jorconalx
alexandria
Member since Aug 2011
8588 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 11:50 am to
Well if it would fit under the bridge I would have a place for you to park it...
Posted by Truoutdorzmanfla
Louisiana
Member since Nov 2013
261 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 12:08 pm to
If u can get the trailer to new Iberia off 90. I'm a welder and can fix it fo ya
Posted by fishfighter
RIP
Member since Apr 2008
40026 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 1:16 pm to
Most trailer places do carry replacement parts for the bunk supports. DO NOT reuse the nuts and bolts. Buy new ones. The old one had stretched and will not hold tight.
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81604 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 1:18 pm to
quote:

DO NOT reuse the nuts and bolts. Buy new ones. The old one had stretched and will not hold tight.
Looks like there were just two screws with carriage bolt looking heads.
Posted by fishfighter
RIP
Member since Apr 2008
40026 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 1:25 pm to
quote:

Looks like there were just two screws with carriage bolt looking heads.


If the bracket is still good, take the boat off the trailer and get under the trailer and drill a 1/4" hole thru were the lag bolts were. Then from the top side redrill to counter sink a 1/4" washer and bolt about half way thru the runner. Then just add a nut from the bottom. Should last a few years.

Oh, if you have a battery drill, you can get this done at a boat landing and only takes a couple minutes.
This post was edited on 2/2/15 at 1:28 pm
Posted by NASA_ISS_Tiger
Huntsville, Al via Sulphur, LA
Member since Sep 2005
7979 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 1:31 pm to
quote:

galvanized one


Better drink some milk before welding on that!
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81604 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 1:48 pm to
quote:

If the bracket is still good, take the boat off the trailer and get under the trailer and drill a 1/4" hole thru were the lag bolts were. Then from the top side redrill to counter sink a 1/4" washer and bolt about half way thru the runner. Then just add a nut from the bottom. Should last a few years.
Everything came off. There is nothing left on top of the square tubing.
Posted by jorconalx
alexandria
Member since Aug 2011
8588 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 2:20 pm to
quote:

Everything came off. There is nothing left on top of the square tubing


A good welding shop will have done something similar I am sure. Call CF's on McKeithen Dr.
Posted by farad
non-entity of St George
Member since Dec 2013
9614 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 2:20 pm to
what brand of trailer?...
Posted by dawg23
Baton Rouge, La
Member since Jul 2011
5065 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 2:42 pm to
Not sure how far you are from Baton Rouge, but Mike Gerald's Trailer World (Airline Hwy. 225-356-4000) does very good work at pretty reasonable rates.

Given that one bunk crapped out on you, you very likely have other hardware/frame members that are in need of inspection and (maybe) repair//replacement.

Sounds like you were lucky//observant and saw the issue before it dumped your boat. Last week two lanes of I-110 southbound were closed due to a fairly large fiberglass boat that was sitting on the pavement (trailer was about 50 yards away, looking somewhat lonely).
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81604 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 3:15 pm to
Marine master. Just back from my boat guy. he is going to come over and have a look. Either weld straight back onto tubing, or find a bracket, then attach by drilling holes and using bolts.
This post was edited on 2/2/15 at 3:31 pm
Posted by jorconalx
alexandria
Member since Aug 2011
8588 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 3:34 pm to
quote:

or find a bracket, then attach by drilling holes and using bolts.


I would get it welded. Drilling holes and mounting a bracket is just a quick fix. Besides, you don't know how fatigued the other welds are and what shape the metal is in. Just my opinion.
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81604 posts
Posted on 2/2/15 at 3:39 pm to
quote:

I would get it welded. Drilling holes and mounting a bracket is just a quick fix. Besides, you don't know how fatigued the other welds are and what shape the metal is in. Just my opinion.


But aren't lots of trailers done this way? I remember always having to turn one of my bunks back to straight on my Skeeter.

The square tubing that the bunks are mounted to are in really great shape. It's whatever was mounted on top that had the bolts through it that have rusted to hell and back.

I have searched all kinds of ways for a pic of a similar set up, and I can find nothing.
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