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re: New Construction HVAC question
Posted on 11/1/18 at 9:54 pm to Bullfrog
Posted on 11/1/18 at 9:54 pm to Bullfrog
STAY AWAY FROM LENNOX!! I built a home 8 yrs ago and have 3 LENNOX units... have had to replace 3 evaporator coils. Lennox is a piece of shite. Go look up the lawsuits the Lennox has lost for using faulty evaporator coils...I’ve turned in all the paper work required to get reimbursed and have been approved to get reimbursed and still haven’t heard anything in over 3 years.
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Posted on 11/1/18 at 10:02 pm to Joshkdixon
My house is new and I put 3 units. 550 sf above the garage bonus area. Rarely used so I wanted to be able to shut the air off or leave it set to 80. Master area separate unit because I work shift and like it cold when I sleep. Then main house. Used 16 seer American standard units. Paid
More for 3 units but I'm happy with it. R 30 attic and blown cellulose in the walls.
I've seen too many problems with the mildew in foamed houses. I've used it in several houses per request from customers but they are never happy with it.
More for 3 units but I'm happy with it. R 30 attic and blown cellulose in the walls.
I've seen too many problems with the mildew in foamed houses. I've used it in several houses per request from customers but they are never happy with it.
Posted on 11/1/18 at 10:08 pm to Bullfrog
So if he told me he's confident a single stage 3 zoned 5 ton unit is efficient and he knows how to zone it right, you would go with it? Or lean towards 2 separate smaller units?
Posted on 11/1/18 at 10:11 pm to GATORGAR247
Curious..huge electric bills with 3 units?
Posted on 11/1/18 at 10:21 pm to Joshkdixon
Highest this year was 150. On 3300 sf. Upstairs gets used once a month or less. Theres a door that closes the stairs off from the main house. Master is turned up to 76 unless I'm sleeping. Main house stays on 74. All lighting is led.
This post was edited on 11/1/18 at 10:22 pm
Posted on 11/1/18 at 10:29 pm to GATORGAR247
That's not bad at all. I think mind is made up to do 2 separate initially. One master and kids rooms and the other for main areas and guest room. Install program thermostat to adjust setting in main areas at night to reduce energy draw and vice versa in bedrooms during day. Then will add on a mini split to bonus room in year or so, but do all prep work now. I'll end up with 3000 sf when bonus is finished and have 3 systems equaling 6 tons. Also going all led bulbs.
Posted on 11/1/18 at 10:29 pm to GATORGAR247
You want an inverter compressor that runs at varying speeds using a variable speed drive. I believe these units are state of the art. I have dual compressors with the smaller one staying running after the larger compressor turns off, and this helps lower humidity. Inverter compressors are also super quiet.
Posted on 11/1/18 at 10:34 pm to Nawlens Gator
Either an inverter compressor or digital compressor will give you what you need.
You can also get a condensing unit that uses hot gas bypass, but that doesn’t save energy, just gives you comfort.
Whatever you do, either go multistage compressor or multistage condensing unit, meaning it has multiple compressors and / or circuits, giving it redundancy and the ability to scale down.
Never ever go multi zone single stage. Never.
It’s a waste of energy and you will never satisfy every space.
You can also get a condensing unit that uses hot gas bypass, but that doesn’t save energy, just gives you comfort.
Whatever you do, either go multistage compressor or multistage condensing unit, meaning it has multiple compressors and / or circuits, giving it redundancy and the ability to scale down.
Never ever go multi zone single stage. Never.
It’s a waste of energy and you will never satisfy every space.
Posted on 11/1/18 at 10:37 pm to Joshkdixon
I don’t think this is a bad idea.
It’s a happy medium if you’re going with a two separate mediums.
Fun fact, 60% of energy saving is from scheduling, so a programmable thermostat is the way to go. Especially one you can access remotely / app based.
It’s a happy medium if you’re going with a two separate mediums.
Fun fact, 60% of energy saving is from scheduling, so a programmable thermostat is the way to go. Especially one you can access remotely / app based.
Posted on 11/1/18 at 10:38 pm to Nawlens Gator
Out of curiosity what should the humidity be in a house ? The thermostats I have can be programmed to lower humidity.
Posted on 11/1/18 at 10:47 pm to Joshkdixon
They want a Lennox? Find a new contractor ASAP. They want to fleece you. Lennox is rated the worst brand in past 5-6 years. No AC has broken down more. One lawsuit against their leaky evaporator coil ended in 2016. All those were in new units less than 3 yrs old. After Lawsuit Lennox still put the same batch of bad coils in and sure enough most leaked again. Another lawsuit has been filed. Lennox will probably settle again. Lennox has had numerous blower issues as well the past 2 years.
This post was edited on 11/2/18 at 7:17 am
Posted on 11/1/18 at 10:50 pm to Joshkdixon
I'm retired with 35 years in commercial/industrial HVAC. Sound like you're in for a long term solution.
Get multiple prices from the major manufacturers. Go with two high efficiency units with multispeed condensers. Hard ducts with balancing dampers. Get the extended warranties up front.
Get multiple prices from the major manufacturers. Go with two high efficiency units with multispeed condensers. Hard ducts with balancing dampers. Get the extended warranties up front.
Posted on 11/1/18 at 10:50 pm to Joshkdixon
always go with 2 separate units.
it allows direct use coverage so only the space being used requires extra cooling or heating and an extra bonus is if one ever breaks the other half of the house is still sort of comfy until it can be repaired, or at worst you temporarily just stay on one side of the house.
and make sure it is sized and setup for any extra areas like a garage you may want to add cooling to
it allows direct use coverage so only the space being used requires extra cooling or heating and an extra bonus is if one ever breaks the other half of the house is still sort of comfy until it can be repaired, or at worst you temporarily just stay on one side of the house.
and make sure it is sized and setup for any extra areas like a garage you may want to add cooling to
This post was edited on 11/1/18 at 10:52 pm
Posted on 11/1/18 at 10:52 pm to GATORGAR247
quote:
Out of curiosity what should the humidity be in a house ? The thermostats I have can be programmed to lower humidity.
People have Ac in places like Vegas with extremely low Humidity.
I agree with the others that said that you don’t want too big of a system, but I’m sorry it’s laughable to suggest that 6 tons is too big for a 2550 sq ft house with 10 ft ceilings. There’s about 50 variables and if one or 2 are off and you are cutting it close you could be unhappy. It’s probably about $600-700 bucks to go up a half or full ton just to guarantee you are staying cool and not overworking your system. It gives you wiggle room for additions and whatever else also.
Hvac systems are like trucks, everyone has a brand they love and hate. You never know when there will be a recall or lemon for a unit. Just go with your gut but make sure you get multiple suggestions at least 3.
Posted on 11/1/18 at 10:55 pm to keakar
quote:
it allows direct use coverage so only the space being used requires extra cooling or heating and an extra bonus is if one ever breaks the other half of the house is still sort of comfy until it can be repaired, or at worst you temporarily just stay on one side of the house.
This, but it additionally gives you generally better ducting options. You can have one unit upstairs and one downstairs for example, no need to duct between levels. Or different sides of the house, you don’t have to have your one large unit in the middle, you can have two smaller units towards the exterior walls where it may make more sense for your layout.
Posted on 11/1/18 at 10:56 pm to Joshkdixon
Let me know what Lennox, Trane & Daikin comes in at price wise & I’ll match it with Carrier.
Can’t have you using shitty Lennox.
& tell me who your contractor is so I can call him and chew his arse
Can’t have you using shitty Lennox.
& tell me who your contractor is so I can call him and chew his arse
Posted on 11/1/18 at 11:51 pm to TigerstuckinMS
quote:
There's a lot that makes a difference. In short, efficiency costs more, so a lot of the difference can be attributed simply to concessions manufacturers have to make in construction and materials to meet customer expectations in terms of price.
It's not easy to design and build high efficiency equipment. It usually takes us 2-3 years to launch higher SEER equipment. And the better the unit, the more costly to build...R&D costs, more copper, aluminum, steel, pricey components (compressors, motors,etc.) as well as increased labor costs to manufacturer. The more the government pushes us to increase efficiency ratings, the more expensive it gets for the consumer. Oh, and tariffs are not helping us at this time.
Posted on 11/2/18 at 12:16 am to GATORGAR247
quote:
Out of curiosity what should the humidity be in a house ? The thermostats I have can be programmed to lower humidity.
35-45% is the target zone. Adjust within that zone for your personal comfort preference. Go below and you'll destroy items made of wood as well as possible health issues. Above that zone creates a bad environment for both a healthy house and a healthy you. You never want a wet home. Wet conditions breed micro organisms.
Posted on 11/2/18 at 5:26 am to kengel2
Rule of thumb is 400sq per ton. With 5 tons of condenser capacity, you are at 500 sq per ton. Which can work. Depends on your building envelope
If you are looking for energy efficient, then spend money on high end windows and insulation. Most efficient A/C unit is one that is not running.
I prefer more zones and more units. 15 years in a house and you see a good chance of losing a compressor. Always nice to have a working unit in one part of the house you can run to.
As far as the up stairs I would plan on a mini-split system. Either ceiling cassette or wall mount ductless system.
If you are looking for energy efficient, then spend money on high end windows and insulation. Most efficient A/C unit is one that is not running.
I prefer more zones and more units. 15 years in a house and you see a good chance of losing a compressor. Always nice to have a working unit in one part of the house you can run to.
As far as the up stairs I would plan on a mini-split system. Either ceiling cassette or wall mount ductless system.
Posted on 11/2/18 at 6:11 am to Cosmo
quote:
Trane or Carrier or gtfo.
And I would always prefer 2 separate units. Youll be happy one works when the other breaks
listen to this guy. Lennox has a class action lawsuit against them for the garbage they have been producing. How do i know? i had to have a 2 year old replaced because the coils were leaking inside and outside. if and when i build i'd pick a goodman over a lennox, but more than likely will go with a carrier.
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