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Posted on 10/16/17 at 12:30 pm to alajones
Check the battery cables. Contact could be corroded or dry and in need of silicone grease.
My battery indicator would start to twitch and then the ac would go hot. Turns out the cables were dry and needed grease. When the battery disconnects the blend door on the ac resets. The blend door actuator would get stuck and stay on hot.
05 Yukon
My battery indicator would start to twitch and then the ac would go hot. Turns out the cables were dry and needed grease. When the battery disconnects the blend door on the ac resets. The blend door actuator would get stuck and stay on hot.
05 Yukon
Posted on 10/16/17 at 1:00 pm to alajones
As most have said, it sounds like an alternator issue - simple DVOM check, but also check all leads going into your battery terminals and make sure the terminals themselves connect tightly to the battery (and make sure to clean all corrosion off).
Posted on 10/16/17 at 2:01 pm to Paradiddler
Autozone said alternator was good. Had to break down and take to a garage.
Posted on 10/16/17 at 2:03 pm to alajones
Your coolant is low.
Posted on 10/16/17 at 2:10 pm to alajones
Test the new battery, it's rare but I have gotten a bad new battery before.
Posted on 10/16/17 at 2:14 pm to alajones
What does your amp meter read?
Posted on 10/16/17 at 2:21 pm to alajones
quote:
Autozone said alternator was good. Had to break down and take to a garage.
If the alternator is intermittently charging that would cause it to read 14, then 9. It still could be alternator. Also a loose ground from the battery would cause that on and off action.
Posted on 10/16/17 at 2:49 pm to alajones
You have a loose or broken wire. Might be broken inside of the insulation and difficult to find. Trace each wire coming from the battery.
Posted on 10/16/17 at 4:18 pm to alajones
Check the cables
Posted on 10/16/17 at 4:29 pm to alajones
alternator or battery cables.
Posted on 10/16/17 at 4:33 pm to The Goon
quote:
Check the battery cables. Contact could be corroded or dry and in need of silicone grease.
It's really not a good idea to put silicon grease directly between the post and the connection if that's what you mean. Silicon grease is a good conductor but it will harden when heat is applied. At that point, you will begin to lose conductivity. It's better to just coat the outside of the electrical connections to prevent corrosion.
This post was edited on 10/16/17 at 4:34 pm
Posted on 10/16/17 at 9:57 pm to cahoots
It’s fixed.
$218
Needed a crank “relearn” and an idle “relearn”.
Whatever the frick that means. Something I’ve never done.
$218
Needed a crank “relearn” and an idle “relearn”.
Whatever the frick that means. Something I’ve never done.
Posted on 10/16/17 at 10:28 pm to alajones
Posted on 10/16/17 at 10:40 pm to alajones
quote:
I jump her off
Go on...
Posted on 10/16/17 at 11:22 pm to alajones
quote:
Needed a crank “relearn” and an idle “relearn”.
aka, cleaned battery terminals.
Posted on 10/16/17 at 11:34 pm to alajones
quote:they're full of crap. They were close, though. They cleaned all the connections and reset the computer. Nothing you described would relate to relearning the idle
Needed a crank “relearn” and an idle “relearn”.
Whatever the frick that means. Something I’ve never done.
Posted on 10/17/17 at 6:55 am to airfernando
My truck is a 2011 GMC. It has a fuel saving feature that disengages the alternator clutch for a while once the battery is fully charged. Instrument will read 14V when engaged and 9 V when disengaged.
I don't know if your 05 has that but you should check before you swap the alternator.
I don't know if your 05 has that but you should check before you swap the alternator.
Posted on 10/17/17 at 7:34 am to mohalk
quote:2007 GMC Yukon’s have that.
Instrument will read 14V when engaged and 9 V when disengaged
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