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Message
re: Homebrewing: In-Process Thread
Posted on 5/24/15 at 7:51 pm to LoneStarTiger
Posted on 5/24/15 at 7:51 pm to LoneStarTiger
quote:
I remember Azacca being very spicy/peppery
Thats what i get from the smell. Some fairly strong pepper notes.
1
Posted on 5/25/15 at 8:38 am to BugAC
I used Azacca in a single hop single malt lager that is just finishing up fermentation now. Should get a great way to learn about the hop.
Posted on 5/25/15 at 10:54 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
You can make something similar to the fortunate islands clone I just made and use your Brett to ferment it
You will need a bunch of Amarillo and citra though
That was my initial thought but have decided to go with a 100% Brett raspberry wheat and try to have it ready for our beach trip.
Posted on 5/26/15 at 9:26 am to LSUGrad00
quote:
but Bug's beers were crystal clear. Maybe he will chime in and give some pointers.
I'm assuming you are referring to the Saison. These 2 were dry hopped in seperate 3 gallon fermenters. One on top of Oak, the other on blood orange, for about a month, and i cold crashed them the last week at 55 degrees or so. They were also bottle conditioned for a month or more before you had it, so that will also cause a lot of the haze to drop out.
The brown ale has flaked barley, and the pale ale has flaked oats, both of which, accentuates the cloudiness in beers.
Posted on 5/26/15 at 12:38 pm to BugAC
man, when you commit to not buying beer and only drinking homebrew, you can go through a keg quickly. My Fortunate Islands clone is down to about a gallon or so, guess it's time to plan the next brew day
Posted on 5/26/15 at 4:59 pm to LoneStarTiger
Yeah, when you're only drinking on one batch and nothing else, it becomes painfully obvious just how much you drink. Pipeline, pipeline, pipeline. Easier said than done, though.
Posted on 5/26/15 at 7:17 pm to BottomlandBrew
Well, i did have a praline porter kegged too, but I was tired of it so I stopped drinking it and just had the other.
Ordered some Vienna and American ale yeast for a SMaSH. Hopefully I get to brew it next week.
Ordered some Vienna and American ale yeast for a SMaSH. Hopefully I get to brew it next week.
Posted on 5/28/15 at 12:40 pm to LoneStarTiger
Concerns with efficiency
I brewed sunday and my target pre-boil OG was 1.06. My resulting mash pre boil OG was 1.07. A mash efficiency of 100%. I took my sample and cooled it to 75 degrees before i measured. My hydrometer is calibrated correctly too.
So, as i wrap up the boil, cool down, rack to primary and add yeast, i take another reading. My measured OG was 1.062. Target was 1.070.
I was at a constant gentle boil the 60 minutes of boil time. I also fly sparge with water heated to 170 degrees. Oh, and i treat my water with salts to get the correct PH and water profile per style. The ph on my last batch should have been around 5.36.
Would could cause my efficiencies to be off? Could the lauter time affect it. I would say it generally takes about 20 minutes to collect 7.25 gallons of wort. I've also realized i dont stir the grains in my mash tun prior to lautering. I typically add my mash water. Add about 1/2 my grains, stir in, then add the other half, and stir in. Then, i measure my temps. Stir a bit to keep out cold spots, then once i'm satisfied, let it sit for an hour or more.
Water Profile
I brewed sunday and my target pre-boil OG was 1.06. My resulting mash pre boil OG was 1.07. A mash efficiency of 100%. I took my sample and cooled it to 75 degrees before i measured. My hydrometer is calibrated correctly too.
So, as i wrap up the boil, cool down, rack to primary and add yeast, i take another reading. My measured OG was 1.062. Target was 1.070.
I was at a constant gentle boil the 60 minutes of boil time. I also fly sparge with water heated to 170 degrees. Oh, and i treat my water with salts to get the correct PH and water profile per style. The ph on my last batch should have been around 5.36.
Would could cause my efficiencies to be off? Could the lauter time affect it. I would say it generally takes about 20 minutes to collect 7.25 gallons of wort. I've also realized i dont stir the grains in my mash tun prior to lautering. I typically add my mash water. Add about 1/2 my grains, stir in, then add the other half, and stir in. Then, i measure my temps. Stir a bit to keep out cold spots, then once i'm satisfied, let it sit for an hour or more.
Water Profile
This post was edited on 5/28/15 at 12:51 pm
Posted on 5/28/15 at 1:02 pm to BugAC
I suspect a problem with your software, not with your procedure
Posted on 5/28/15 at 1:06 pm to LoneStarTiger
quote:
I suspect a problem with your software, not with your procedure
Using beersmith. Here are my calibrations for the software for my equipment.
Equipment Profile: Bug's Initial Setup - 60 Minute
Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Mash Tun Volume: 10.00 gal
Mash Tun Weight: 9 lbs
Mash Tun Specific Heat: 0.30
Lauter Tun Deadspace: 0.25 gal
Boil Size: 7.25 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
Evaporation Rate: 10.3 %
Calculate Boil Size: TRUE
Kettle Top Up Water: 0.00 gal
Hop Utilization Adjustment: 100.00 %
Trub/Chiller Loss: 0.75 gal
Cooling Loss: 4.00
Top Up Water into Fermenter: 0.00 gal
Posted on 5/28/15 at 1:09 pm to BugAC
quote:
Would could cause my efficiencies to be off?
Is due to this:
quote:
pre-boil OG was 1.06. My resulting mash pre boil OG was 1.07. A mash efficiency of 100%. I took my sample and cooled it to 75 degrees before i measured. My hydrometer is calibrated correctly too.
So, as i wrap up the boil, cool down, rack to primary and add yeast, i take another reading. My measured OG was 1.062. Target was 1.070.
is not possible for multiple reasons:
1. A 100% mash efficiency is impossible. you cannot pull every ounce of sugar out of the grain. So either you are using that term differently than myself and everyone I know. OR... Your first reading was off for some reason. And it was closer to 1050 (maybe lower depending on your final volume).
2. You cannot start off with 7 gallons of 1070 wort and end up with 5.5 gallons (or whatever) of 1062 wort. The more water you boil off makes the wort more concentrated. Since this one is obvious, my assumption is that the first reading was off.
In the end, you have demonstrated here that you are really anal about your procedures, so I highly doubt that it has anything to do with your procedures. My bet is the calculation of your pre boil gravity.
This post was edited on 5/28/15 at 1:13 pm
Posted on 5/28/15 at 1:19 pm to Fratastic423
quote:
1. A 100% mash efficiency is impossible. you cannot pull every ounce of sugar out of the grain. So either you are using that term differently than myself and everyone I know. OR... Your first reading was off for some reason. And it was closer to 1050 (maybe lower depending on your final gravity).
I know its not possible, thats why i'm having a problem with it. The mash efficiency, calculated by beersmith, based on the values i input showed 100%. I measured it several times.
quote:
2. You cannot start off with 7 gallons of 1070 wort and end up with 5.5 gallons (or whatever) of 1062 wort. The more water you boil off makes the wort more concentrated. Since this one is obvious, my assumption is that the first reading was off.
I also am aware of this. That's why i posed my problem. This is the first time i used this to measure my wort
Previously i was using a plastic thief. I switched to this, because my wort pre-boil OG from the thief to directly in the brewpot was completely different (like 10 points off). So i used the test jar and stored it in the fridge until it hit 75-80 degrees.
quote:
My bet is the calculation of your pre boil gravity.
Here is what i input into beersmith.
quote:
Recipe: 27 - Tropical Fruit IPA
Brewer:
Asst Brewer:
Style: American IPA
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (30.0)
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 7.25 gal
Post Boil Volume: 6.50 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Bottling Volume: 5.00 gal
Estimated OG: 1.070 SG
Estimated Color: 5.0 SRM
Estimated IBU: 99.3 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 76.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 86.4 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
9.10 gal Light Colored and Hoppy Water 1 -
7.49 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 mins Water Agent 2 -
3.10 g Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 3 -
2.22 g Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 4 -
8 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 5 57.4 %
4 lbs Pilsen Malt 2-Row (Briess) (1.0 SRM) Grain 6 28.7 %
12.0 oz Vienna Malt (Briess) (3.5 SRM) Grain 7 5.4 %
11.0 oz Acidulated (Weyermann) (1.8 SRM) Grain 8 4.9 %
8.0 oz Honey Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 9 3.6 %
1.00 oz El Dorado [15.00 %] - First Wort 60.0 mi Hop 10 45.6 IBUs
1.00 oz El Dorado [15.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 11 41.5 IBUs
1.00 oz Azacca [15.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 12 8.3 IBUs
1.00 oz Motueka [7.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 13 3.9 IBUs
1.00 oz Azacca [15.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 0.0 Hop 14 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz El Dorado [15.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 0 Hop 15 0.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg Vermont IPA (Gigayeast #GY054) Yeast 16 -
1.00 oz El Dorado [15.00 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 17 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Motueka [7.00 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 18 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Azacca [15.00 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 19 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz El Dorado [15.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 20 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Azacca [15.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 21 0.0 IBUs
Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Light Body, No Mash Out
Total Grain Weight: 13 lbs 15.0 oz
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Mash In Add 17.42 qt of water at 163.0 F 150.0 F 75 min
Sparge: Fly sparge with 4.82 gal water at 170.0 F
Notes:
------
CF3XK5X
https://www.brewersfriend.com/mash-chemistry-and-brewing-water-calculator/?id=CF3XK5X
MASH SALTS
Gypsum - .8 tsp
Epsom Salt - .2 tsp
Calcium Chloride - .3 tsp
SPARGE SALTS
Gypsum - 1 tsp
Epsom Salt - .3 tsp
Calcium Chloride - .4 tsp
ETA: I'm sure the beer will taste fine, but i want to know the specifications to my beer so i can tailor it if i brew it again.
This post was edited on 5/28/15 at 1:20 pm
Posted on 5/28/15 at 1:24 pm to BugAC
How/when did you collect your pre-boil gravity sample?
Posted on 5/28/15 at 1:34 pm to BMoney
quote:
How/when did you collect your pre-boil gravity sample?
After i transfer the wort to the brew kettle i use a thief to gather the wort and transfer that to the test jar. I put the test jar in the fridge and cool down to about 80 to measure with a hydrometer.
Posted on 5/28/15 at 1:38 pm to BugAC
Posted the same question on homebrewtalk. And i think i found the culprit. I did not stir my wort after collecting the wort from the brew pot.
I'm fairly confident this was the problem. Dammit.
I'm fairly confident this was the problem. Dammit.
This post was edited on 5/28/15 at 1:39 pm
Posted on 5/28/15 at 1:38 pm to BugAC
quote:
After i transfer the wort to the brew kettle i use a thief to gather the wort and transfer that to the test jar. I put the test jar in the fridge and cool down to about 80 to measure with a hydrometer.
Are you stirring the wort fully before taking a reading? It's likely as simple as you're pulling a sample from a portion of the wort that has more sugars in it. From what I've read, it's best to measure just as the wort comes to the boil, because all the wort is at the same temperature and the convection currents have mixed the wort fully, so you get a much more accurate reading.
Posted on 5/28/15 at 1:40 pm to BMoney
quote:
Are you stirring the wort fully before taking a reading?
See above. I think this was the problem. Glad it was this, rather than having to fool with my setups in beersmith. Posted on 5/28/15 at 2:54 pm to Fratastic423
quote:
There is a really simple solution to your hydrometer issues...buy one of these: LINK
Yep. I wouldn't waste another second dealing with waiting for temps to drop and temp correcting hydrometer samples again and buy yourself a refractometer. Hell, get a digital one if you really want.
You keep coming to us throughout this thread asking questions about efficiency. Lose the hydrometer.
Posted on 5/28/15 at 6:37 pm to s14suspense
The only thing that sucks about those is not being able to use them to check FG. That's the most important gravity reading.
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