Started By
Message

Trailer light wiring question

Posted on 6/17/21 at 10:24 pm
Posted by TutHillTiger
Mississippi Alabama
Member since Sep 2010
43700 posts
Posted on 6/17/21 at 10:24 pm
I have to rewire my damn trailer light to the connector that goes to the truck. It’s a 5 wire flat connector. The wires on the trailer are brown, brown with a stripe, white, green and yellow. The connector wires are brown, white, yellow, green and blue. I assume white to white, yellow to yellow, green to green, but is it brown to brown, then Brown with white strip to blue or reverse or what
Posted by The Nino
Member since Jan 2010
21525 posts
Posted on 6/17/21 at 10:41 pm to
Does the trailer have brakes? That’s normally what the blue wire is for if I remember correctly
Posted by Wtodd
Tampa, FL
Member since Oct 2013
67515 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 6:47 am to
Prayers sent....there used to be a standard for trailer wiring but no more. I recommend finding out everything there is to know about the current wiring and go from there.
Posted by SpeckledTiger
Denham Springs
Member since Jul 2010
1477 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 7:37 am to
strip it all and start fresh. It'll save you time in the end.
Posted by Stexas
SWLA
Member since May 2013
6038 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 8:32 am to
quote:

strip it all and start fresh. It'll save you time in the end.


This, plus when it goes bad again in 6 months you'll know what you did to get it working in the first place. Trailer lighting is the bane of my existence.
Posted by plazadweller
South Georgia
Member since Jul 2011
11459 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 8:39 am to
Speaking from experience I just had 1/2 of my flatbed rewired in January. Last week I plugged it up and nothing on the back 1/2 of the trailer works. The front running lights work but the brake lights and rear running lights don’t work. I did it to save time because I was going to be pulling it from S Ga to Jonesboro Ark and wished I had gone ahead & redone everything
This post was edited on 6/18/21 at 8:40 am
Posted by footballdude
BR
Member since Sep 2010
1075 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 9:12 am to
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/blazer-led-submersible-square-trailer-light-kit-for-trailers-under-80-in-wide-pack-of-2?cm_vc=-10005

Get a kit that has everything.

Take some time now and replace everything with LED's.

No more problems.

Park it on your driveway and buy/borrow a mechanics creeper to roll around under it.

Possibly drink some beer while working.
This post was edited on 6/18/21 at 9:15 am
Posted by WPBTiger
Parts Unknown
Member since Nov 2011
31284 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 9:45 am to
quote:

Get a kit that has everything.

Take some time now and replace everything with LED's.


This was my approach when I rewired my trailer.
Posted by TutHillTiger
Mississippi Alabama
Member since Sep 2010
43700 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 10:17 am to
The guy at the launch looked at me with incredible empathy and disgust as he said “Trailer wiring problems huh” One of life’s great mysteries. We can fly a plane remotely on Mars but we can’t make a trailer lighting system that will last 3 years. It’s up there with missing socks out of dryer.

I had everything working but one side, checked the light box for bad bulbs etc it was fine and it’s gone downhill from there. I am going to follow the Ob advice, rewire the damn thing ( after helping me kill my arch nemesis ((4 to 5 year old mobile area swamp turkey) it has proven its worth.
This post was edited on 6/18/21 at 10:19 am
Posted by OntarioTiger
Canada
Member since Nov 2007
2125 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 10:27 am to
Agree w the earlier advice - pull the old shh** buy new and start fresh. Blue wire is for brakes. The LED lights are a big improvement over bulbs from back in the day. When connecting wires I always solder and shrink wrap especially in marine applications.
Posted by TigerKurt
Kenner, LA
Member since Apr 2005
874 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 11:00 am to
LED is the way to go
shrink wrap the connections
Posted by Redlos
Baton Rouge
Member since Jul 2005
1051 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 11:08 am to
I use the marine butt connectors from Hf and then shrink wrap, LED too. May have the clean the grounds every few years but have been on a good run so far.
Posted by phrede
Member since Feb 2014
11 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 11:46 am to
I rewired my 16' utility trailer using a 14 gauge extension cord. I just used the third wire to carry my ground all the way to the tongue so i do have to rely on the rusted metal for ground. $30 for the cord to not have to worry about those cheap wires that come it the light kits.
Posted by 24nights
Louisiana
Member since Apr 2012
4802 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 12:13 pm to
Yellow is left turn
Green is right turn
Browns are park lights, running lights(this will run down the entire trailer to the each parking lights)
White is ground
Blue is brake, it hooks up to reverse wire on vehicle.
Make sure to ground the white wire to the trailer, drill hole, ring terminal, nut, bolt, lock washer.

Are you installing new led lights? What is the towing vehicle? Magnetic light kit may be a better option if you're rough on your trailer.
This post was edited on 6/18/21 at 12:32 pm
Posted by mdomingue
Lafayette, LA
Member since Nov 2010
30862 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 2:42 pm to
The brown plus brow/white stripe are the same thing. Taillights (left and right sides). Blue is typically a brake (usually on the 7 round or blade connectors) or a backup light (5 prong flat).



Posted by deanwelles
EBR Parish Prison
Member since Mar 2008
177 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 2:55 pm to
I bought an LED kit with wiring and the lights. Also I used liquid electrical tape, which is applied like rubber cement.
Posted by Mister Bigfish
Member since Oct 2018
946 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 3:17 pm to
Get some butt connectors with built in heat shrink. They work great and for an extra layer of protection go over the connector with liquid electrical tape like posted above.

Amazon Link
This post was edited on 6/18/21 at 3:20 pm
Posted by alphaandomega
Tuscaloosa
Member since Aug 2012
13654 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 3:42 pm to
quote:

I bought an LED kit with wiring and the lights. Also I used liquid electrical tape, which is applied like rubber cement.




I did that too. Also soldered all connections and then covered the liquid electrical tape with shrink wrap.

Been good for about 5 years so far. At least until now because I probably just jinxed myself.

Posted by mohalk
Member since Feb 2009
371 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 7:49 pm to
Soldering is actually not recommended for boats and marine applications. ABYC forbids it. The solder is brittle and will fatigue on a boat. Crimp connectors with heat shrink are better.
Posted by captdalton
Member since Feb 2021
8361 posts
Posted on 6/18/21 at 9:02 pm to
Both brown wires on your trailer, the solid brown one and the one with the white stripe, go to the single brown connector that plugs in to vehicle. I personally wrap the two trailer browns together and stick them in a heat shrink crimp with the connector brown on the other side. You can also just crimp one to the other, and use a splice connector on the unconnected tail light, but I have very mixed results with splice connectors. Also before I assemble everything i slide an extra piece of appropriately sized heat shrink on the wire before I crimp everything together, and I spray the wires and crimps with boeshield or corrosion X. Once you have everything crimped, take a lighter or heat gun to shrink the connector, let it cool for a minute or so, then slide the other piece of heat shrink tube over the connection, with an extra inch past each end of shrink crimp, and heat shrink that too. Loose or shitty ground seems to cause more problems with trailer lights than anything. Drill it into the trailer.
first pageprev pagePage 1 of 2Next pagelast page

Back to top
logoFollow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News
Follow us on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram to get the latest updates on LSU Football and Recruiting.

FacebookTwitterInstagram