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Improved axe design?
Posted on 4/14/15 at 8:38 am
Posted on 4/14/15 at 8:38 am
6
Posted on 4/14/15 at 8:43 am to Jarlaxle
I saw that a few years ago. Seems pretty cool but I'd still prefer this:
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Posted on 4/14/15 at 8:51 am to pointdog33
What kind of wood were they chopping there?
Posted on 4/14/15 at 8:53 am to Jarlaxle
Hmmm...looks like it'd work good on seasoned wood..but not so much on green wood.
Posted on 4/14/15 at 9:06 am to NASA_ISS_Tiger
Yea I want to see it do that to some oak or pecan logs before I go track one of them down
Posted on 4/14/15 at 9:07 am to Jarlaxle
I have an old maul with a piece of iron pipe welded in for a handle. You can roll through some wood with it if you're big enough to swing it. But it is a bit less than forgiving if you mis-hit with it. As in, it will rattle the fillings out of your teeth. 
Posted on 4/14/15 at 9:09 am to Jarlaxle
I doubt it splits red oak as well as a regular ol 8lb splitting maul
Posted on 4/14/15 at 11:14 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
F an axe, maul or wedges etc, I have that T shirt and it wore out long ago, I work smarter now – If I am going to split any reasonable amount of hardwood its a hydraulic splitter for me. I raise your dry pecan or oak w/ American elm that stuff is tenacious – amazing how a ¼” fiber can hold on
Posted on 4/14/15 at 11:18 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:Why?
I doubt it splits red oak as well as a regular ol 8lb splitting maul
Posted on 4/14/15 at 11:30 am to Jarlaxle
Does "heavy equipment" include a four wheeler with a log splitter behind it?
Posted on 4/14/15 at 11:32 am to AlxTgr
Looks like it works more as a lever than a wedge. The head looks pretty narrow. I think you would have a hard time busting big logs with it. Probably works great on small straight grained stuff.
Posted on 4/14/15 at 11:45 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:I think that's important to the design. It needs to penetrate a bit before the offset torques it around causing the split. From one review,
The head looks pretty narrow
quote:
I recently put it to the test with some very green(just cut ) white oak and hard maple, very old trees with lots of nobs and twisted all to hell, I cut, 18" long and the butts were 24"to 36" around. I tried earlier to split these butts with my German made splitting maul, witch is a good maul, and it just bounced back and fourth like a yo yo, not making even a dent. With a little practice I managed to split those butts with the Vipukirves lever axe, it was work, but it did not bounce back at me, nor did it stick.
Posted on 4/14/15 at 12:40 pm to AlxTgr
Doesn't seem like there would be as much lateral force from that counterweight vs a heavy wedge, but maybe it's better than I'm giving it credit for. I ain't doing all that math.
Posted on 4/14/15 at 1:14 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Hammertime I like the way you think ...
Posted on 4/14/15 at 1:33 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Yep. I have a 28 ton hydraulic splitter and it has a hard time with knotty pieces of red oak. Last weekend I cut a red oak that was about 30" at the base. Split everything fine until I worked up to that section where the limbs start. I ended up cutting it into 2 sections and we are going to use them as seats around the fire pit.
That thing would just bounce back and hit you in the face on a piece like that.
That thing would just bounce back and hit you in the face on a piece like that.
Posted on 4/14/15 at 1:37 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:The reason why there are so many alternatives is-heavy wedges suck at their job.
heavy wedge
Posted on 4/14/15 at 3:42 pm to Jarlaxle
I used to sell firewood and split mostly red oak with a 4lb double bit axe. I detested mauls. They were so heavy and usually so much overkill for wood with no knots.
What immediately caught my attention about this one was the twisting of the handle on impact. You'd have to wear somewhat slippery gloves to keep from injuring your wrist.
What immediately caught my attention about this one was the twisting of the handle on impact. You'd have to wear somewhat slippery gloves to keep from injuring your wrist.
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