re: Jon boat repair : Rivets

Are you gonna clamp the motor to the transom, or drill holes and add bolts to the "clamping." If you use bolts, you're right back to sealing holes in the transom.

That 5200 is used by boat dealers everywhere when when bolting engines to transoms. I think you'll be fine with rivets, bolts or whatever, if you use the 5200. Obviously the welds will be stronger, I don't think you'll gain any great benefit as far as leak prevention.

We mount outboards on our smaller work boats (25 h.p. up to 60 h.p.) using bolts that are run through the transom. We've never had a leak in the last 30 years (and the silicone sealer we had in the "old days" wasn't nearly as good as the 5200).

I'd talk to someone in the rigging department of a reputable boar dealer and ask their opinion on leak prevention through transoms.

5200 to aluminum is not a permanent seal, it will eventually break seal

the proper seal is a weld
even the aluminum putty is better than 5200

Or you can just go with this, like we did on that '59....



My uncle finally just said F-it, and bought a new Weldcraft....

I might look into that method for re-attaching the bracket. Im not sure if I would trust myself with it filling those 5 1/4" holes at the bottom.

I realllly wish this wasnt a riveted boat

It was free so I cant complain too much

Web I got sidetracked with hunting season and am just now starting on the boat.

I am going to tackle this transom, then fab a deck out of aluminum angle/sheet aluminum, a floor from sheet aluminum and a few other small things.

I did get the trailer redone though. I just need to get it extended a little and a new coupler put on.

I restored a '74 1542 Duracraft and replaced a number of rivets after drilling them out. Nothing to it. It helps to have another set of hands to back up the rivet with a heavy sledge when you peen the end. The end of the rivet easily mushrooms. After I replaced the rivets, I filled the hull to check for leaks and there were none. I purchased the rivets at Grainger.