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Started By
Message
Jon boat repair : Rivets
Posted on 2/20/15 at 9:28 pm
Posted on 2/20/15 at 9:28 pm
I am slowly refurbishing this 1542 Duracraft.
I need to replace the transom wood. This is the original wood, so it is a little rotten after almost 30 years.
The top cap is all welded, the knee brace just had 4 bolts to remove, and the bitch is the bottom bracket/shelf holding it up. It is riveted on with 5 solid "buck" aircraft rivets and it is obviously below the waterline.
As much as I hate to do it, I am going to have to drill these rivets out so I can get the bracket out to replace the wood.
I have been reading on re-fastening everything, and it looks like my choices are 1/4" closed end blind rivets or truss head machine screws with washers and lock nuts (5200 applied to either application). I have also read of people using stainless carriage bolts with washers and lock nuts.
What is the best way to go about this? I wouldnt be worried about it if it wasnt below the waterline.
I am leaning towards the machine screws coated in 5200 with washers and lock nuts.
I am just afraid that if the hole is not perfect due to the drillout, that new rivets would not get a great seal and leak even slightly.
Green bracket at the bottom of the wood
Hard to see, but they are the rivets closest to the bottom
I need to replace the transom wood. This is the original wood, so it is a little rotten after almost 30 years.
The top cap is all welded, the knee brace just had 4 bolts to remove, and the bitch is the bottom bracket/shelf holding it up. It is riveted on with 5 solid "buck" aircraft rivets and it is obviously below the waterline.
As much as I hate to do it, I am going to have to drill these rivets out so I can get the bracket out to replace the wood.
I have been reading on re-fastening everything, and it looks like my choices are 1/4" closed end blind rivets or truss head machine screws with washers and lock nuts (5200 applied to either application). I have also read of people using stainless carriage bolts with washers and lock nuts.
What is the best way to go about this? I wouldnt be worried about it if it wasnt below the waterline.
I am leaning towards the machine screws coated in 5200 with washers and lock nuts.
I am just afraid that if the hole is not perfect due to the drillout, that new rivets would not get a great seal and leak even slightly.
Green bracket at the bottom of the wood
Hard to see, but they are the rivets closest to the bottom
8
Posted on 2/20/15 at 9:35 pm to Polar Pop
Can you drill out the inside rivets and when they are loose tap them out the back? That way the outside of the boat should not have a larger hole.
You can always add washers to the inside of the rivet or a plate.
You can always add washers to the inside of the rivet or a plate.
Posted on 2/20/15 at 9:36 pm to Polar Pop
Have it welded back 
Posted on 2/20/15 at 9:38 pm to eng08
I think I might be able to keep it clean if I use a step bit or just use a 3/16 then gradually move up until the rivet head pops off.
I just wonder if the machine bolts will actually be stronger and a better option than going back in with pop rivets?
I just wonder if the machine bolts will actually be stronger and a better option than going back in with pop rivets?
Posted on 2/20/15 at 9:39 pm to Polar Pop
Yep, I would used SS machine screws coated in 5200 with washers and lock nuts. Also would used marine plywood for the transom.
Posted on 2/20/15 at 9:40 pm to Polar Pop
Yea ole rivet tin boats are tough to deal with.
Because of the tapered head Id prolly go with carriage bolts,ny lock nuts and a splash of 5200.
Because its a small tin boat, upward water pressure is minimal, because of weight of boat.
Id geaux with whats easiest/cheapest
Plus the larger surface area, head of a carriage bolt will give ya more strength
Because of the tapered head Id prolly go with carriage bolts,ny lock nuts and a splash of 5200.
Because its a small tin boat, upward water pressure is minimal, because of weight of boat.
Id geaux with whats easiest/cheapest
Plus the larger surface area, head of a carriage bolt will give ya more strength
This post was edited on 2/20/15 at 9:43 pm
Posted on 2/20/15 at 9:42 pm to Nascar Fan
quote:
Have it welded back
I am going to look into this.
quote:
hogdaddy
Definately going with marine grade plywood and I am going to give it a little spar urethane. I dont want to go broke restoring this boat, but I definately want it done correctly so I dont have to worry on the water.
Posted on 2/20/15 at 9:46 pm to Drop4Loss
quote:
Because of the tapered head Id prolly go with carriage bolts,ny lock nuts and a splash of 5200.
Can you elaborate a little on this? I am just not familiar with carriage bolts in this setting.
What would be the benefit of them over the machine screws?
Posted on 2/20/15 at 9:53 pm to hogdaddy
Who is a source for Marine plywood in Baton Rouge?
Posted on 2/20/15 at 10:03 pm to Shexter
In New Orleans i'd get it at Lowes or Homedepot.
Posted on 2/20/15 at 11:13 pm to Polar Pop
If you're gonna use screws or bolts, use plumber's goop. I'd personally get it welded though
Posted on 2/20/15 at 11:23 pm to Hammertime
Would they just weld the holes closed in the transom then weld that bracket back on?
Im not against getting it welded, I just know its not cheap to get someone to crank up a tig machine.
Im not against getting it welded, I just know its not cheap to get someone to crank up a tig machine.
Posted on 2/21/15 at 12:37 am to Polar Pop
quote:
Would they just weld the holes closed in the transom then weld that bracket back on?
That's what I'd have them do cause I hate fricking rivets
Posted on 2/21/15 at 4:46 am to Polar Pop
I have a 70's model 14 ft duracraft I use for yoyoing, frogging, etc. last year it started popping rivets really bad. I used SS carriage bolts with flat washer, silicone, and lock nut. Also replaced the transom using the same method. I've ran yoyo's twice and went jugging a few times without any problems.
This post was edited on 2/21/15 at 4:48 am
Posted on 2/21/15 at 5:39 am to dpark
Don't use SS. Dissimilar metal's are asking for corrosion.
Read this. LINK
If it were me, I would grind off the heads of the rivets and punch them out. Just the ones at the top of the knee and transom. Leave the bottom knee rivets in place. Just pry the knee away from the transom to replace the plywood. Then bolt back with brass nuts, washers and bolts and a dab of 5200.
Or have it weld back up.
Read this. LINK
If it were me, I would grind off the heads of the rivets and punch them out. Just the ones at the top of the knee and transom. Leave the bottom knee rivets in place. Just pry the knee away from the transom to replace the plywood. Then bolt back with brass nuts, washers and bolts and a dab of 5200.
Or have it weld back up.
Posted on 2/21/15 at 7:01 am to fishfighter
quote:
fishfighter
I was just going to say the exact same
Posted on 2/21/15 at 7:18 am to Polar Pop
My uncle and I hunted out of a '59 Duracraft for years. It was a 14' narrow flat perfect for getting around trees to our spot.. It was rated for a 10 hp, we had a 20 on it. We basically wore it out... We could only do so many weld repairs from running over cypress knees...
It was a piece of shite, but we had some of the best times ever hunting and fishing out of that thing....
It was a piece of shite, but we had some of the best times ever hunting and fishing out of that thing....
This post was edited on 2/21/15 at 7:24 am
Posted on 2/21/15 at 7:59 am to fishfighter
Well crap guess I need to remove and do over. Learn something new every day
Posted on 2/21/15 at 8:16 am to fishfighter
That's why I suggested using the rivets instead of machine screws.
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