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Started By
Message
How to reload .223 ammo
Posted on 8/20/14 at 5:17 pm
Posted on 8/20/14 at 5:17 pm
LINK /
Thought I would share because I am going to give it a try this this weekend at the camp. Its a pretty good step-by-step picture guide.
Going to do some target practice and burn though some rounds so we have some empty cartridges to use.
Does anyone have experience doing this? If so, how did it go? What are the dangers of a round going off while you are messing with the powder?
Thought I would share because I am going to give it a try this this weekend at the camp. Its a pretty good step-by-step picture guide.
Going to do some target practice and burn though some rounds so we have some empty cartridges to use.
Does anyone have experience doing this? If so, how did it go? What are the dangers of a round going off while you are messing with the powder?
This post was edited on 8/20/14 at 5:19 pm
5
Posted on 8/20/14 at 5:19 pm to rn4j0r
:bapple:
Posted on 8/20/14 at 5:46 pm to rn4j0r
I've been reloading for about a year now. Stay focused and start with low powder charges, powder won't go off unless you something really stupid....Good luck and have fun.
Bapple is a good source of information .
Bapple is a good source of information .
Posted on 8/20/14 at 5:50 pm to unclejhim
Thanks guys.
Do they have a website or only post on TD?
Do they have a website or only post on TD?
Posted on 8/20/14 at 6:35 pm to rn4j0r
My uncle is the reloader in the family, and he flat out refuses to reload .223 because according to him, it's tougher than normal. I'm no reloading expert, but is this a legit excuse?
Posted on 8/20/14 at 7:54 pm to CroakaBait
Nope 223 is pretty easy,
Get a full length size die, get a Lee factory crimp 223 die because it is a collet style crimp die.
Read about head spacing and neck tension.
I suggest a ball powder, it will meter great for you.
Depending where you get your brass you may have to swage the primer pocket to remove a crimp.
Get a full length size die, get a Lee factory crimp 223 die because it is a collet style crimp die.
Read about head spacing and neck tension.
I suggest a ball powder, it will meter great for you.
Depending where you get your brass you may have to swage the primer pocket to remove a crimp.
Posted on 8/20/14 at 8:15 pm to ninthward
quote:
*ninthward*
Gotcha, thanks for the info.
Posted on 8/24/14 at 6:29 am to rn4j0r
Bapple has a you tube channel or whatever they call it. Just search re-loading you'll find it.
Posted on 8/24/14 at 7:19 am to rn4j0r
.223 has become plentiful and relatively cheap again. A person might just be able to shoot factory stuff and sell the brass for a per round cost comparable to reloading.
Posted on 8/24/14 at 8:22 am to rn4j0r
Reloading is easy and there really isn't any danger of the powder going off. I mean, its not the time to have a stogie while reloading if you know what I mean...
Anyways, if your gonna reload 223 its pretty simple. Its just about like reloading any other rifle cartridge with one exception. You will want to de-prime and resize the brass. Both of these will be done with one die. Then you will want to clean the brass. I like vibratory polishers the best, use either walnut shell or corn husk for the media.
...here is where it gets different from other reloading, you will need a tool called a swager to take the crimp out of the primer pocket. If you don't, you will crush your primers over and over again trying to get it in the primer pocket...
Once you have swaged the brass seat a primer. Always seat the primers as deep as you can. If they are not seated all the way, they MAY have a tendency not to go off. Now you put in your powder and seat the bullet.
Word to the wise, check your powder throw over and over again to ensure that you are using the right amount of powder. New powder measures tend to throw differing amounts of powder than once the powder measure gets a little dirty. So don't think that your first measure of power is going to be accurate. Once you are putting out the right amount of powder, measure 10 or so throws to ensure that it is staying consistent.
At minimum you will need...
A press
Powder scale
polisher
2 dies, a deprime/resize die and a bullet seat die
pocket swager
A primer that works by hand or with your press
powder measure
and a case trimmer-if you are going to be shooting the brass in different rifles.
Have fun!
Anyways, if your gonna reload 223 its pretty simple. Its just about like reloading any other rifle cartridge with one exception. You will want to de-prime and resize the brass. Both of these will be done with one die. Then you will want to clean the brass. I like vibratory polishers the best, use either walnut shell or corn husk for the media.
...here is where it gets different from other reloading, you will need a tool called a swager to take the crimp out of the primer pocket. If you don't, you will crush your primers over and over again trying to get it in the primer pocket...
Once you have swaged the brass seat a primer. Always seat the primers as deep as you can. If they are not seated all the way, they MAY have a tendency not to go off. Now you put in your powder and seat the bullet.
Word to the wise, check your powder throw over and over again to ensure that you are using the right amount of powder. New powder measures tend to throw differing amounts of powder than once the powder measure gets a little dirty. So don't think that your first measure of power is going to be accurate. Once you are putting out the right amount of powder, measure 10 or so throws to ensure that it is staying consistent.
At minimum you will need...
A press
Powder scale
polisher
2 dies, a deprime/resize die and a bullet seat die
pocket swager
A primer that works by hand or with your press
powder measure
and a case trimmer-if you are going to be shooting the brass in different rifles.
Have fun!
Posted on 8/24/14 at 9:10 am to CroakaBait
quote:
My uncle is the reloader in the family, and he flat out refuses to reload .223 because according to him, it's tougher than normal. I'm no reloading expert, but is this a legit excuse?
I've been reloading for almost 20 years, and .223 /5.56 has always been pretty easy.
The hardest (for me, anyway, why, I don't know) has always been .45 ACP. You'd think a straight wall case would be much easier.
LC
Posted on 8/24/14 at 9:13 am to LongueCarabine
quote:
The hardest (for me, anyway, why, I don't know) has always been .45 ACP. You'd think a straight wall case would be much easier.
You're doing it wrong then. :)
Posted on 8/24/14 at 10:41 am to chrisman17
LOL, WTF do you know, greenhorn?
LC
LC
Posted on 8/24/14 at 10:45 am to LongueCarabine
What is the problem loading 45?
Posted on 8/24/14 at 10:57 am to ninthward
quote:
What is the problem loading 45?
Not a problem, just that setting up and making sure everything is right is more tedious with .45ACP. Particularly "belling" the case mouth properly.
LC
Posted on 8/24/14 at 10:58 am to LongueCarabine
I find 45 the easiest
Posted on 8/24/14 at 11:01 am to KingRanch
quote:
I find 45 the easiest
I find .223 to be the easiest. Seriously.
LC
Posted on 8/24/14 at 11:02 am to LongueCarabine
quote:
I've been reloading for almost 20 years, and .223 /5.56 has always been pretty easy.
The hardest (for me, anyway, why, I don't know) has always been .45 ACP.
I think the complete opposite. My favorite is 45. My least favorite are both .223 and 9mm because everything is so damn small. Everything is on a larger scale for 45.
To the OP, I have a basic reloading tutorial here:
Reloading Tutorial - Pistol and Rifle
Know that these videos are extremely basic for simple reloading. I still highly advise you read the information sections of reloading manuals before starting.
As others have said, it is very difficult to do anything stupid and cause some type of explosion. I know human beings are capable of some serious stupidity, but follow the charge weights and overall-lengths in the reloading guide and you should be okay.
Thanks for stopping by and best of luck to you.
Posted on 8/24/14 at 11:09 am to bapple
I understand it should be easy due to the large scale.
But the hardest to reload that I had was some milsurp .30-06 cases from the mid 70s.
Those primers were unbelievably hard to get out, I was seriously wondering whether my Rock Chucker was going to break. The brass was in good shape, not tarnished, but that primer pocket was tight.
LC
But the hardest to reload that I had was some milsurp .30-06 cases from the mid 70s.
Those primers were unbelievably hard to get out, I was seriously wondering whether my Rock Chucker was going to break. The brass was in good shape, not tarnished, but that primer pocket was tight.
LC
Posted on 8/24/14 at 11:12 am to LongueCarabine
quote:
LOL, WTF do you know, greenhorn? LC
Apparently more than you.
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