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Repair help needed: Dryer won't heat

Posted on 3/2/14 at 3:33 pm
Posted by Htown Tiger
Houston
Member since Sep 2005
2312 posts
Posted on 3/2/14 at 3:33 pm
So I've done as much research as I think I can, and still no luck.

Breakers have been checked
Voltage from wall reads 220v
Tested continuity in the heating element, thermal fuse, and thermostats (all 3 of them) and all passed
Vents are clear of a any debris and air flows perfectly fine out the back of the machine

Any other recommendations on things to check?
Posted by LSUnGA
Buford, GA
Member since Jun 2009
1694 posts
Posted on 3/2/14 at 3:35 pm to
Heating element bad? If you pull it off you might be able to see a broke connection. I had to replace one about a year ago, not too hard of a job, at least on my dryer.
Posted by beejon
University Of Louisiana Warhawks
Member since Nov 2008
7959 posts
Posted on 3/2/14 at 3:37 pm to
If it has a timer, there could be timer problems.
Posted by ellunchboxo
Gtown
Member since Feb 2009
18795 posts
Posted on 3/2/14 at 3:44 pm to
Sounds broken.
Posted by J311slx
Las Vegas
Member since Sep 2011
1978 posts
Posted on 3/2/14 at 3:47 pm to
:napoleon: can maybe give advice. He's pretty good with that stuff
Posted by GFunk
Denham Springs
Member since Feb 2011
14966 posts
Posted on 3/2/14 at 3:49 pm to
1.) Adjust knob to High Heat from No Heat Setting.
2.) ?????
3.) Profit
Posted by Htown Tiger
Houston
Member since Sep 2005
2312 posts
Posted on 3/2/14 at 3:49 pm to
Would the timer affect the heat while the rest works?
Posted by shutterspeed
MS Gulf Coast
Member since May 2007
63312 posts
Posted on 3/2/14 at 4:23 pm to
True OTBallers hang their clothes to dry outside on a clothes line.
Posted by Voorhies7
Rounding 3rd
Member since Oct 2012
5591 posts
Posted on 3/2/14 at 5:07 pm to
Sounds broke
Posted by BamaChick
Terminus
Member since Dec 2008
21393 posts
Posted on 3/2/14 at 5:33 pm to
Samsung? We just had to get the heating element replaced last week.

The repair guy said they keep those in permanent stock now because they break so often.

We have a 20 year old washer and dryer at our lake house that have never broken and still work great.

These new front load, fancy washers and dryers seem to start falling apart after 5 or 6 years.
Posted by Itismemc
LA
Member since Nov 2008
4718 posts
Posted on 3/2/14 at 5:36 pm to
Out of heater fluid, take out the lint screen and pour some seafoam in there.
Posted by LSUlefty
Youngsville, LA
Member since Dec 2007
26450 posts
Posted on 3/2/14 at 6:45 pm to
I changed my element a few weeks ago. Easy easy.
Posted by fightin tigers
Downtown Prairieville
Member since Mar 2008
73681 posts
Posted on 3/2/14 at 6:48 pm to
Does sound like the heating element. My wife fixed ours one time, so that should give you an idea of how easy it was.
Posted by Napoleon
Kenna
Member since Dec 2007
69077 posts
Posted on 3/8/14 at 11:22 am to
quote:

Does sound like the heating element


A bad heating element won't show continuity.

Even the samsung/GE models

It really really depends on the model. blanket advice is nearly impossible to give.

Posted by Joehat
New Orleans West
Member since Jun 2011
962 posts
Posted on 3/8/14 at 11:27 am to
Replace soilnoids. $2.00 off amazon. YouTube videos show you how, did it last month.
Posted by My Daddy
You Mom's Bed
Member since Mar 2014
745 posts
Posted on 3/8/14 at 11:33 am to
I recently went through the same thing, turns out it was the timer switch on the control panel. They are expensive new so take yours out and find the exact match for it on Ebay. Your welcome lol
Posted by Napoleon
Kenna
Member since Dec 2007
69077 posts
Posted on 3/8/14 at 11:34 am to
quote:

Replace soilnoids. $2.00 off amazon. YouTube videos show you how, did it last month.



electric dryers don't have solenoids.

But is if a gas dryer, then yes this is a very common fail point. I wouldn't buy the $2 ones. get Supco or Aspen brand at the cheapest. They are universal all gas dryers after 1994 use the same ones.

He said he checked the element but he could have meant the igniter. Now in that case he would want to check the amperage of the igniter. It can glow, but if it doesn't pull m,ore than 2.5 amps the signal to the solenoids won't open up the gas on the primary coil.

Posted by Napoleon
Kenna
Member since Dec 2007
69077 posts
Posted on 3/8/14 at 11:35 am to
quote:

I recently went through the same thing, turns out it was the timer switch on the control panel. They are expensive new so take yours out and find the exact match for it on Ebay. Your welcome lol



this would be the culprit if everything else was working fine.

But I wouldn't change it until everything else has been tested.

OP when seeking help for an appliance always type in the model number and you will get much better help.
I was on vacation and didn't joxy until today.
Posted by Porter Osborne Jr
Member since Sep 2012
39996 posts
Posted on 3/8/14 at 11:50 am to
quote:

Out of heater fluid, take out the lint screen and pour some seafoam in there.
I hope that stuff isn't flammable.
Posted by Napoleon
Kenna
Member since Dec 2007
69077 posts
Posted on 3/8/14 at 12:03 pm to
quote:

Out of heater fluid, take out the lint screen and pour some seafoam in there.
I hope that stuff isn't flammable.



I fell bad if people actually follow sarcastic advice. They used to ban people who said to delete sys32 on windows.

OP if you or anyone has issues you can email me at Napoleontd at gmail.

I'll try to help as I have time. There are a few people I have gone back and forth with.
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