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Trailer wiring question
Posted on 3/3/16 at 12:34 pm
Posted on 3/3/16 at 12:34 pm
I am rewiring my boat trailer with all LED lights. I have some side lights that I will need to splice in. There is only one wire coming from the side light. I know that I am supposed to splice the side light wire and the brown trailer light wire. What is the best way to accomplish this and have it be waterproof without soldering? I have found some heat shrink connectors that are designed for one wire on one side and two wires on the other, which is exactly what I am wanting to do. They cost a good bit more than your basic heat shrink connectors so my question is is there an easier/cheaper way? Can I fit two wires into one end of a basic heat shrink connector if I get one designed for a larger gauge? If I go that route, will the other end of the connector that will only have one wire in it fail?
Thanks!
Thanks!
3
Posted on 3/3/16 at 12:46 pm to marinebioman
quote:
Can I fit two wires into one end of a basic heat shrink connector if I get one designed for a larger gauge? If I go that route, will the other end of the connector that will only have one wire in it fail?
yes, you can. If the connector is too big for a single wire, strip the insulation a bit farther back and fold the copper wire double before putting it into the connector. I'd also put liquid electrical tape all over the connection.
Posted on 3/3/16 at 12:47 pm to marinebioman
Sure you can do that, but it won't be watertight. I'd either get the more expensive one or wrap it in electrical tape. Would be nice if they made a snap splice that could be sealed, but I've never seen one. You could always wrap that in electrical tape or put some sealer on it
Posted on 3/3/16 at 12:55 pm to Hammertime
Posted on 3/3/16 at 12:59 pm to marinebioman
Yup, but you're looking at a box of 50. Try finding a 3, 5, or 10-pack from somewhere
Check places like digikey, parts express, mouser, etc for "3M 314 connector"
Check places like digikey, parts express, mouser, etc for "3M 314 connector"
This post was edited on 3/3/16 at 1:04 pm
Posted on 3/3/16 at 1:03 pm to marinebioman
I hate splice connectors as well as butt connectors. When I'm making splices, I slide heatshrink up the wire past where I want to splice. Strip an 1" or so of insulation without cutting the wire. Open up the wire to make a hole. Strip an inch off the tap wire and push throught the hole in the other wire. Wrap half of the strands one way and half of the stands the other way. Slide heat shrink over and shrink. No connectors and your long run of wire is never cut.
Posted on 3/3/16 at 1:05 pm to marinebioman
damp or moist usually means its good for areas that don't get saturated with water, like a damp basement or a covered porch.
Wet would be direct contact with water.
I would not use the splice you posted on a boat trailer.
A waterproof butt connector will work fine. If the heat shrink will not seal properly because of a smaller wire on one end, the liquid electrical tape will cover any gaps.
LINK
LINK
Wet would be direct contact with water.
I would not use the splice you posted on a boat trailer.
A waterproof butt connector will work fine. If the heat shrink will not seal properly because of a smaller wire on one end, the liquid electrical tape will cover any gaps.
LINK
LINK
Posted on 3/3/16 at 1:09 pm to Chris4x4gill2
He's trying to connect 3 wires through one butt connection. Any way you do it, the side with the 2 wires is not gonna seal because of the space and movement between the two wires
Posted on 3/3/16 at 1:09 pm to stein_burgundy
quote:
I hate splice connectors as well as butt connectors. When I'm making splices, I slide heatshrink up the wire past where I want to splice. Strip an 1" or so of insulation without cutting the wire. Open up the wire to make a hole. Strip an inch off the tap wire and push throught the hole in the other wire. Wrap half of the strands one way and half of the stands the other way. Slide heat shrink over and shrink. No connectors and your long run of wire is never cut.
This method is good as well.
Posted on 3/3/16 at 1:09 pm to Chris4x4gill2
Thanks Chris. I am a novice at this. The new wiring harness will be in the 14-16 gauge range, correct?
Posted on 3/3/16 at 1:15 pm to stein_burgundy
Stein, I like that idea since like you said you are never cutting the main wire. I am pretty sure I can picture what you are talking about. I would slide some heat shrink tube down the wire that comes with the side LED light, make the connection how you described, then slide the tube over and apply heat. I just need to make sure the tubing is large enough to be able to have two wires under it, correct?
Posted on 3/3/16 at 1:23 pm to Hammertime
sure it will. The waterproof butt is going to have the "goo" adhesive inside that will cover the bare wire and the heat shrink may not be 100% water tight with two wires, but that's why you use the liquid elec. It will last a good long time that way if good crimps are made. A strip of heat shrink around both wires would help prevent movement too.
Posted on 3/3/16 at 1:24 pm to marinebioman
the heat shrink would slide down your main wire. Make the connection then slide heat shrink over the three wires (your tap will sit alongside your main wire on one side of the connection). I'm trying to find a picture or a link of what I'm talking about.
Posted on 3/3/16 at 1:25 pm to marinebioman
shrink tubing and liquid electrical tape like 3M scotchcote. I have repaired cabling like this and submerged it in 500' of water.
Over time the liquid tape will fail but you should get a few yrs out of it
Over time the liquid tape will fail but you should get a few yrs out of it
Posted on 3/3/16 at 1:27 pm to Chris4x4gill2
You know those butt connectors get hard and crack, right?
Posted on 3/3/16 at 1:29 pm to stein_burgundy
Okay I think I get it. I would need to slide this tubing on the main wire before I connected it to the tail lights. Sorry for sounding so dumb...Its all new to me but I would much rather figure it out and do it myself than pay someone else to do it.
Posted on 3/3/16 at 1:30 pm to stein_burgundy
LINK /
Scroll to bottom and this is similar to what I'm describing. On boat trailer wires ill put a little liquid electrical tape on the end with two wires before sliding my heat shrink over. Make the heat shrink 3x as long as the length of insulation you remove. (Cut off 1" insulation, use a piece of heat shrink 3" long.) I'm no electrician but I've had to deal with quite a few nightmare boat and boat trailer wiring jobs.
Scroll to bottom and this is similar to what I'm describing. On boat trailer wires ill put a little liquid electrical tape on the end with two wires before sliding my heat shrink over. Make the heat shrink 3x as long as the length of insulation you remove. (Cut off 1" insulation, use a piece of heat shrink 3" long.) I'm no electrician but I've had to deal with quite a few nightmare boat and boat trailer wiring jobs.
Posted on 3/3/16 at 1:38 pm to stein_burgundy
One more quick (dumb) question and I think I am all set. Whats the best way to remove an inch or so of insulation from the main wire? I have a stripping tool but I have only ever used it for the ends of wires. How do you actually REMOVE a section of insulation?
This post was edited on 3/3/16 at 1:39 pm
Posted on 3/3/16 at 1:39 pm to OntarioTiger
I'd splice and solder the wires, then I encapsulate wires with 3M 5200.
Posted on 3/3/16 at 1:40 pm to Hammertime
quote:
You know those butt connectors get hard and crack, right?
I guess scotchloks and electrical tape don't though?
Do it my way, it will last many years. Do it stein's way or solder it and it will probably last a few years longer. Either are going to be far superior to a skotchlok and electrical tape.
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