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Started By
Message
Re-propping my Boat
Posted on 8/26/16 at 3:38 pm
Posted on 8/26/16 at 3:38 pm
Should I go with the solid bronze from Michigan Wheel or buy the NiBrAl from a Florida company for $200 cheaper?
6
Posted on 8/26/16 at 3:47 pm to MISSOURI WALTZ
Is this a true or false question?
Posted on 8/26/16 at 3:49 pm to Barf
True.
Posted on 8/26/16 at 3:53 pm to MISSOURI WALTZ
What kind of boat?
Posted on 8/26/16 at 4:05 pm to MISSOURI WALTZ
I've had good luck with powertech props.
Posted on 8/26/16 at 4:39 pm to MISSOURI WALTZ
quote:You going for the retro look ?
Should I go with the solid bronze from Michigan Wheel
Posted on 8/26/16 at 7:37 pm to MISSOURI WALTZ
quote:
True.
In that case it will depend on how much HP you're working with. Do you think you're getting any flex?
I'm going to go out on a limb and say you have a ski boat and not a sport fishing boat.
Posted on 8/26/16 at 8:23 pm to Barf
I have a Sea Ray 330 Sundancer. It is powered by twin 7.4L Mercruisers. Maximum HP is 310 each and maximum RPM is 4000 to 4400 at wide open throttle.
Currently it has 17 X 17 NiBrAl three blade wheels, but I hit something a couple of weekends ago that is causing vibration. It is not enough to rattle someone's teeth, but obviously something is not right. I want to re-prop with 17 X 16 four blade wheels.
I know the reputation of Michigan Wheel, but what concerns me is that their props are solid bronze, which flexes more than NiBrAl.
Currently it has 17 X 17 NiBrAl three blade wheels, but I hit something a couple of weekends ago that is causing vibration. It is not enough to rattle someone's teeth, but obviously something is not right. I want to re-prop with 17 X 16 four blade wheels.
I know the reputation of Michigan Wheel, but what concerns me is that their props are solid bronze, which flexes more than NiBrAl.
Posted on 8/26/16 at 8:44 pm to MISSOURI WALTZ
I'd go with stainless steel
Where are you using the boat?
Where are you using the boat?
Posted on 8/26/16 at 8:49 pm to BAMBAM
quote:
I'd go with stainless steel
Where are you using the boat?
Stainless steel is not an option or consideration.
I use it on the Cumberland and Tennessee Rivers, but am seriously considering running her down the Tennessee - Tombigbee Waterway to Mobile Bay.
Posted on 8/27/16 at 10:34 am to MISSOURI WALTZ
quote:
Currently it has 17 X 17 NiBrAl three blade wheels, but I hit something a couple of weekends ago that is causing vibration. It is not enough to rattle someone's teeth, but obviously something is not right. I want to re-prop with 17 X 16 four blade wheels.
Why do you want the four blade? Do you have problems moving it around the dock that at 4 blade would help correct? If it were my boat I would just send the wheels off to a shop and have them fixed.
Posted on 8/27/16 at 5:35 pm to MISSOURI WALTZ
Make sure to get the correct-sized shear pin.
Posted on 8/27/16 at 5:45 pm to MISSOURI WALTZ
This is an interesting conversation.
You seem to know a lot more than most of us about your situation... I'm listening.
You seem to know a lot more than most of us about your situation... I'm listening.
Posted on 8/27/16 at 10:03 pm to Barf
quote:
Why do you want the four blade? Do you have problems moving it around the dock that at 4 blade would help correct? If it were my boat I would just send the wheels off to a shop and have them fixed.
Because I live in the middle of nowhere and to get them reconditioned will take about a month. The local prop shop takes care of river boats first.
My insurance agent told me that I can turn this in for a claim which is something that I might do if I can re-prop my boat and keep the old wheels for spares.
Posted on 8/28/16 at 8:53 am to MISSOURI WALTZ
You might want to try thehulltruth.com.
Great boat and prop expertise there, but if you do, you probably want to give them as much detail in your first question... boat, application, rpm's and stuff.
It's a great source of information.
How much $ are you talking about that you may file a claim?
Reworking props around here is the norm, and a normal fix is about $150, and less than a week.
As you know a vibrating prop isn't good for your shaft, etc, and has a good chance of damaging the shaft seal.
Great boat and prop expertise there, but if you do, you probably want to give them as much detail in your first question... boat, application, rpm's and stuff.
It's a great source of information.
How much $ are you talking about that you may file a claim?
Reworking props around here is the norm, and a normal fix is about $150, and less than a week.
As you know a vibrating prop isn't good for your shaft, etc, and has a good chance of damaging the shaft seal.
Posted on 9/7/16 at 4:28 pm to Grassy1
Update.
I had the boat hauled and the port wheel is bent pretty badly. I have not seen it yet but the service manager took some pics that he is going to send.
I'm going to have the wheels sent UPS to General Propeller in Bradenton, Florida. I've been told that their turnaround is less than a week. If they can recondition and balance the wheels then fine. If not then I'm going with the 17 X 16 four blade NiBrAl.
I know a guy with the same year and model boat as mine and he went with the 17 X 16 four blade NiBrAl. He said that his boat planed quicker and gave him an extra two to three knots at cruising speed. I'm glad he enjoyed it while he did before running his boat aground on some rocks last Derby Day.
Now get a load of this. There is not enough clearance between the wheels and struts to get a prop puller on them so the shaft couplings are going to have to come apart. Man! Am I ever thankful for insurance.
I had the boat hauled and the port wheel is bent pretty badly. I have not seen it yet but the service manager took some pics that he is going to send.
I'm going to have the wheels sent UPS to General Propeller in Bradenton, Florida. I've been told that their turnaround is less than a week. If they can recondition and balance the wheels then fine. If not then I'm going with the 17 X 16 four blade NiBrAl.
I know a guy with the same year and model boat as mine and he went with the 17 X 16 four blade NiBrAl. He said that his boat planed quicker and gave him an extra two to three knots at cruising speed. I'm glad he enjoyed it while he did before running his boat aground on some rocks last Derby Day.
Now get a load of this. There is not enough clearance between the wheels and struts to get a prop puller on them so the shaft couplings are going to have to come apart. Man! Am I ever thankful for insurance.
Posted on 9/7/16 at 5:00 pm to MISSOURI WALTZ
I would only have one concerned about NiBrAl props. It s a strong, fine metal that doesn't flex or bend easily. But the bad news is they don't give much when you hit something.
My farther had an old Chris craft that we re-propped with NiBrAl. We hit an underwater piling one day. The props didn't give but the shaft, seals, bearing and hull itself had damage.
An old guy at a prop shop in New Orleans told us we should have a softer metal prop in areas that have a lot of underwater structures or logs, like around S. Louisiana or rivers like where you cruise.
My farther had an old Chris craft that we re-propped with NiBrAl. We hit an underwater piling one day. The props didn't give but the shaft, seals, bearing and hull itself had damage.
An old guy at a prop shop in New Orleans told us we should have a softer metal prop in areas that have a lot of underwater structures or logs, like around S. Louisiana or rivers like where you cruise.
Posted on 9/7/16 at 6:57 pm to MISSOURI WALTZ
False
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