re: On my way to Searchers 4x4- UPDATE: Death Wobble cured

I'm lucky enough to have not experienced this yet in my Jeep. But I'm on my way to the Jeep dealership in a few to buy a clock spring....

Yeah, might as well get a track bar relocation bracket while you are replacing the joints.

If it was my deal, I'd replace all of them at the same time with Moog, and do the relocation. Slack in one makes others go bad quicker. Dunno what condition your shocks are in either. At $60/shock for Bilsteins, it might not be so bad of an idea.


On mine, the only way to stop it was to power out. Kind of crappy way to deal with it when you end up going 120mph in a 7k pound truck, but it worked until I had money

It was shitty, but I could semi-control it

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Yeah, might as well get a track bar relocation bracket while you are replacing the joints.

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I've got a pretty beefy extended length trac bar right now.

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On mine, the only way to stop it was to power out. Kind of crappy way to deal with it when you end up going 120mph in a 7k pound truck, but it worked until I had money

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right. I basically have to slow down to around 20mph in a hurry. I can hear my brakes saying frick YOU

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but they have a great operation and are extremely welcoming

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Yea they do. Their work definitely is nothing close to cheap, but I've never heard a complaint about bad work from them. Their guys know their shite.

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I've got a pretty beefy extended length trac bar right now.

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It's not the length or the size, it is the relationship to the drag link. With a lift, it makes it much worse. Track bar relocation or dropped pitman arm is the fix, but track bar relocation is the best way to do it.

IIR my bars correctly, the suspension starts wobbling just from normal cycling. Tie rods connect both tires, so they both do it, along with the axle actually moving side to side.

The drag link gets a bump, which translates that back to your pitman arm/steering box. Track bar is supposed to be parallel to keep the axle from going haywire and bouncing around everywhere.

When they are parallel, that translation of lateral bumping is managed by them being parallel and working together to accomplish the same overall thing(basically). Lifting, and unloading the suspension, opens up the angle of the dangle and they kind of scissor open, making them not work together, and actually work somewhat against each other, because as your suspension droops, the axle moves.



It is a pretty complicated thing that is 100x easier to explain in person, and 400x harder to explain on my phone in class.

Pirate really is the best source of information on the internet for most every off-road related things. 50% are professional fabricators/engineers/welders/etc. They put jeep forum to shame when it comes to knowledge, but don't be a noob and just go asking about bump steer/death wobble stuff. The info is all there, just have to find it.




* I understand that posts might have sounded like the ramblings of some drunk wizard, but I do know about it. Just not an exquisite typist *

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its basically a snowball effect that reaches the breaking point after years of neglect

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It is more of a design problem. By that, I mean people buying cheap lifts that don't compensate for the geometry changes that occur. User neglect on joints only compounds the problem.

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Do the JKs get it too? Bout to lift mine and that's some shite I don't need!

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Yes but don't let that deter you. I've had mine lifted for 5 years and zero problems with DW.

Get poly bushings

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Rubicon Express

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I had their 4.5" LA kit of my TJ. It was a beast.

Terraflex 2.5 coil lift with .75 coil spacers on my 2 door JK. Bilstein shocks and 35" tires. Dana 44 in rear on only a 30 in front. 410 gears. So far so good.

Upgrades never end

It was something else. I would have never gotten it but they talked me into it. They = Searchers. Never even came close to using it near its max capacity and I abused the hell out of it.