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re: Instrucional hog trapping and eradication thread (Hog-B-Gone)

Posted on 10/7/13 at 5:02 pm to
Posted by Bleeding purple
Athens, Texas
Member since Sep 2007
25315 posts
Posted on 10/7/13 at 5:02 pm to
Bait choices for traps

There are lots of options here. I find that plain deer corn works well. I believe that the sound of hogs crunching the corn up brings in more hogs. Unfortunately, everything likes dry corn. Soured corn also works well and is consumed by deer, hogs, and coons. The deer don't seem as drawn to it though. To sour a bunch I use a cheap black plastic trash can, put 3-4 bags of corn in it and cover it with water so there is 3-4" of water on top of the corn and close the can. Then I let it sit for 7-10 days in the sun. The corn sour will last weeks as long as you make sure to top off the water so it barely covers the corn continuously or it will mold. Diesel soaked corn has the advantage of not being attractive to deer and coons. I have not used it though. Some people like to use other mixtures with their corn including soured milk but I have not seen it work better and it stinks like hell.

With corn prices being what they are, I have started using sweet feed. The hogs and deer LOVE it. It has two disadvantages though. It is hard to see from a distance because it is dirt brown and it dissolves in rain.

I do use some very sweet fruit baits or attractants with good success. Fruit punch, raspberry jello powder, grape jello powder, and other flavors are common. I have the most success mixing cheap pineapple soda with sugar free raspberry jello packets and then pouring that out over the corn and all over the trap door. I even try to slosh some up on tree limbs to get the smell in the air better. I usually on use the fruit flavors when I just got done catching them on plain or soured corn in the same trap.

I have used slop and table scraps before but have had very mixed results.


So after getting the pigs in the trap, what now?

When approaching your trap try to determine from a distance if there are hogs in it. The hogs will root in the dirt and be hard to see so don't look for them look to see if the door is closed. I use marker tape on the lad string and or doors for this purpose. On the swing doors I simply put tape on the corner of the door and on the frame if I can see two separate areas of tape the door is open. If the door is closed, you need to look and see if there are small hogs around the trap. binos help. If there are, try to shoot as many as possible prior to approaching. Then look for the large hogs in the trap and shoot them if possible in the head. Scared and injured hogs will tear a trap apart. Surprisingly, they don’t usually go too crazy until you approach the trap. Even with shooting from a distance, as long as they are head shots that drop the target the other pigs kind of run around for a bit then settle again. Once you need to approach the trap be ready to shoot quickly and to need body shots on some. Even with the small gap cattle panel, smaller piglets and shoats will try to squeeze out. They are kind of like mice. If they can get their head through the rest of the body will fit through too.

For side of the head shots in the trap a 22LR is plenty. The problem is once they see you as a physical threat they will face you head on and try to ram the trap walls to get to you. Forehead shots with a 22LR are not recommended. For those head on shots and for close range body shots on big groups of pigs 12 gauge 2 3/4" bird shot or can't be beat. Ballistic tip or HP handgun or .223 is another option. FMJ rounds are not useful here and present a danger to the shooter. Remember there is a lot of metal for bullets to bounce off of. If running the traps with a buddy or two make sure you all watch your shooting angle and avoid muzzle flashing each other. In most cases high powered rounds will cut through the panel wire and damage the trap so be aware of that also.

Once all of the pigs are down, enter the trap cautiously. I have had shot hogs apparently stunned or knocked out suddenly come to life when you grab them.

If you want to run the trap again immediately I suggest shoveling out as much blood as possible and process out the hogs elsewhere. If you are not going to run it again for a while I don’t think it matters. In areas with lots of activity, it is not uncommon to catch hogs on successive nights. Make sure if your trap is set you run it every day.

What to do with the dead pigs?

Despite what some will say the meat from wild hogs is excellent. It really does not matter the sex or age of the hog. The fat content of young pigs under 60 lbs will be relatively very low. The shoulder meat on large boars will be a bit tough and scared up but makes fine sausage. The determining factor in meat quality IMHO is how fast you get it out of the hog and the lack or presence of cross contamination with gut content. Thus head shot trapped hogs offer the best opportunity for good meat.

If you don't want all of the meat it's no sweat off my back but at a minimum I take the backstraps out of the hogs. I do this by positioning the hog belly down with legs out like the Sphinx. Then I make an "I" shaped cut down the spine and pull the skin down in either direction. I then make a cross cut in front of the pelvis and one behind the neck on each backstrap and pull them out. I call it a field fillet.

If you want to just dump them that is fine too, they will make plenty more. For the most rapid consumption by scavengers, leave them on the edge of the woods outside of the tree line where the buzzards can see them. Make a slice in the skin at the upper edge of the belly to make it easier for the scavengers to get through the thick skin. Here it takes only 48 hours max for nothing to be left but skin and bones.

This post was edited on 10/14/13 at 4:07 pm
Posted by ForeverLSU02
Albany
Member since Jun 2007
52147 posts
Posted on 10/7/13 at 5:03 pm to
quote:

Bear
Posted by Bleeding purple
Athens, Texas
Member since Sep 2007
25315 posts
Posted on 10/7/13 at 5:03 pm to
How I clean a whole hog

I have so many that I will not clean a hog fully this way unless it is head shot. I may remove hams and shoulders from a body shot hog after performing the field fillet above. I do so by simply extending the skin incisions and skinning out the leg and then detaching it at the joint. I no longer gut body shot hogs.


For head shot hogs. I lay the hog on its back with legs up and skin the legs down to the abdomen. Then I lift the hog on a gambrel and continue to skin it out from the tail down all the way to the ear level. I cut the skin off around the anus and leave it intact. Skinning a hog when it is still warm/hot is much easier than when the meat is cold. If you want to make sausage try to keep the knife close to the skin to leave as much fat as possible behind. Unlike a deer, you will not be able to just pull down on the skin to get it off. You will need to drag the knife cutting through the fat and connective tissue in the process. I good sharp knife is essential. I like a drop point blade as the curve helps. Make sure to remove any lymph nodes you come across under the skin. Try not to cut the node itself.

Once the skin is down I separate the front hooves at the joints by cutting through the tendons and ligaments and applying a good swift twist. Now I make a cut through the abdominal muscles and peritoneum (thin layer of tissue that is under the muscles and encases the abdominal organs), being careful to not cut the intestines or bladder. I use the gut hook to extend that cut down to the rib cage. In smaller hogs I use the knife to cut down along one side of the sternum (chest bone ribs attach too) all the way to the neck. If it is a larger hog you will need to use a hand bone saw. Now I carefully cut around the anus from the outside and push it through into the abdominal cavity. This allows the guts to fall down. You should be able to pull the kidneys and peritoneum off the inside aspect of the spine by hand but you may need make some small cuts to achieve this. When you get to the diaphragm, start at the spine and cut it away from the abdominal/thoracic wall and pull it down into the chest cavity with your hand. Now spread the ribs where cut before and let all of the internals fall down to the ground still attached at the neck. From behind the reflected esophagus and trachea (bent forward windpipe and food pipe) make a cut perpendicular to the neck deep to the spine. Do the same on the back of the neck at the same level. Now with a quick sharp 90 degree turn of the head while the body is supported the head will come right off. Doing it this way assures the gut contents never touch the meat. Now put the carcass in the cooler and remove the back hooves the same as the front. I clean my deer the same way.

I usually spray the carcass off with the hose when I get it home and then place it on ice.

To keep the hog overnight or for several days pack it in ice. Some people like to soak the meat in vinegar, or other substances, but I just keep it on ice.


This post was edited on 10/14/13 at 4:36 pm
Posted by fishfighter
RIP
Member since Apr 2008
40026 posts
Posted on 10/7/13 at 5:43 pm to
My take is that they will charge you. Had it happen twice in one year.

Still very good info.
Posted by Tbooux
Member since Oct 2011
1680 posts
Posted on 10/7/13 at 5:59 pm to
Awesome info

Thanks for taking the time to put it together! Bookmarked for future use!
Posted by hunt66
Member since Aug 2011
1484 posts
Posted on 10/7/13 at 6:13 pm to
Thanks for the information. After reading all of this I feel good about shooting and recovering two with my bow this weekend! Awesome post.
Posted by unclejhim
Folsom, La.
Member since Nov 2011
3703 posts
Posted on 10/7/13 at 6:13 pm to
Thanks BP, we have them for the 1st. time this year. Will heed your advise.
Posted by Hammertime
Will trade dowsing rod for titties
Member since Jan 2012
43030 posts
Posted on 10/7/13 at 6:25 pm to
Did not know there was a max character limit. I guess you learn something new every day

Posted by hypnos
Member since Dec 2009
2227 posts
Posted on 10/7/13 at 6:38 pm to
quote:

the vitals or gut they will usually die. I have seen one hog frequent a feeder for 9 days with his intestines hanging out. So gut shot hogs may take a while.


frick. I knew they were tough but damn.
Posted by Nascar Fan
Columbia La.
Member since Jul 2011
18574 posts
Posted on 10/7/13 at 9:02 pm to
Very good read
Posted by Ole Geauxt
KnowLa.
Member since Dec 2007
50880 posts
Posted on 10/7/13 at 9:21 pm to
quote:

Nascar Fan

YGM, and I didn't send it COD..

This time..
Posted by Nascar Fan
Columbia La.
Member since Jul 2011
18574 posts
Posted on 10/7/13 at 9:29 pm to
Back at ya
Posted by USMCTiger03
Member since Sep 2007
71176 posts
Posted on 10/7/13 at 10:25 pm to
Dude a serious
Posted by DrTyger
Covington
Member since Oct 2009
22325 posts
Posted on 10/7/13 at 11:02 pm to


Bookmarked!
Posted by Redfish2010
Member since Jul 2007
15168 posts
Posted on 10/8/13 at 1:08 am to
Excellent guide
Posted by SCUBABlake
RIP WT6
Member since Jan 2008
40338 posts
Posted on 10/8/13 at 5:09 am to
Awesome.

BP.
Posted by The Last Coco
On the water
Member since Mar 2009
6840 posts
Posted on 10/8/13 at 3:50 pm to
BUMP for new info
Posted by Bleeding purple
Athens, Texas
Member since Sep 2007
25315 posts
Posted on 10/11/13 at 8:17 am to
Wonder why it got a separate sticky today?

I'm not quite finished yet. More to come. I am still back editing the posts so when finished y'all may want to give it another read.
Posted by Douglas Quaid
Mars
Member since Mar 2010
4097 posts
Posted on 10/11/13 at 1:44 pm to
This thread is already my favorite thread in all of Tigerdroppings...ever. Extremely well done, Sir!

Posted by KingRanch
The Ranch
Member since Mar 2012
61590 posts
Posted on 10/12/13 at 8:30 am to
Holy frick!!!!!!

Awesome BP



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